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+--- Thread: Newbie - District 22 - Downtown L.A. (A table top railway) (/showthread.php?tid=3844)
Re: Newbie - UK modeller attempting new ' Downtown LA' layou - jonte - 06-14-2011
torikoos Wrote:Great, looking forward to it Jonte!
By the way, if you do get another loco, and it happens to be an older Athearn, this page is very helpful in how to 'tune' these and get the most out of them.
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.mcor-nmra.org/Publications/Articles/Athearn_TuneUp.html">http://www.mcor-nmra.org/Publications/A ... uneUp.html</a><!-- m -->
The only thing I do not agree with there is using a fine file on the motor commutator. Better is a a piece of very fine sand paper, grade 800 or higher (get it from car repair & paint shops etc), glued to a small stick or so. You need a polishing action, not a 'scraping' or 'scratching' one. That only results in a courser surface and will in turn wear the motor brushes much faster.
Koos
Most grateful, Koos.
Best wishes,
Jonte
Re: Newbie - UK modeller attempting new ' Downtown LA' layou - jonte - 06-14-2011
Russ Bellinis Wrote:torikoos Wrote:Great, looking forward to it Jonte!
By the way, if you do get another loco, and it happens to be an older Athearn, this page is very helpful in how to 'tune' these and get the most out of them.
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.mcor-nmra.org/Publications/Articles/Athearn_TuneUp.html">http://www.mcor-nmra.org/Publications/A ... uneUp.html</a><!-- m -->
The only thing I do not agree with there is using a fine file on the motor commutator. Better is a a piece of very fine sand paper, grade 800 or higher (get it from car repair & paint shops etc), glued to a small stick or so. You need a polishing action, not a 'scraping' or 'scratching' one. That only results in a courser surface and will in turn wear the motor brushes much faster.
Koos
I don't use any abrasive on Athearn or other open frame motors. I disconnect the drive shafts from the motor to allow it to pick up power from the wheels, but not move. I then use a new #2 pencil eraser on the spinning commutator to clean it off. Polishes it up beautifully. I use a small micro screw driver blade to clean out the slots between the commutator bars. After that I reassemble the locomotive and if I haven't done it already, used Jim Furhman's 5 wire system for wiring up an Athearn locomotive to make as positive electrical connections as possible.
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://trainweb.org/jfuhrtrain/tuneup.htm">http://trainweb.org/jfuhrtrain/tuneup.htm</a><!-- m -->
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://trainweb.org/jfuhrtrain/fivewire.htm">http://trainweb.org/jfuhrtrain/fivewire.htm</a><!-- m -->
Sounds like something even I could do, Russ.
Thanks for the reference.
Jonte
Re: Newbie - UK modeller attempting new ' Downtown LA' layou - torikoos - 06-15-2011
Russ Bellinis Wrote:torikoos Wrote:Great, looking forward to it Jonte!
By the way, if you do get another loco, and it happens to be an older Athearn, this page is very helpful in how to 'tune' these and get the most out of them.
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.mcor-nmra.org/Publications/Articles/Athearn_TuneUp.html">http://www.mcor-nmra.org/Publications/A ... uneUp.html</a><!-- m -->
The only thing I do not agree with there is using a fine file on the motor commutator. Better is a a piece of very fine sand paper, grade 800 or higher (get it from car repair & paint shops etc), glued to a small stick or so. You need a polishing action, not a 'scraping' or 'scratching' one. That only results in a courser surface and will in turn wear the motor brushes much faster.
Koos
I don't use any abrasive on Athearn or other open frame motors. I disconnect the drive shafts from the motor to allow it to pick up power from the wheels, but not move. I then use a new #2 pencil eraser on the spinning commutator to clean it off. Polishes it up beautifully. I use a small micro screw driver blade to clean out the slots between the commutator bars. After that I reassemble the locomotive and if I haven't done it already, used Jim Furhman's 5 wire system for wiring up an Athearn locomotive to make as positive electrical connections as possible.
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://trainweb.org/jfuhrtrain/tuneup.htm">http://trainweb.org/jfuhrtrain/tuneup.htm</a><!-- m -->
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://trainweb.org/jfuhrtrain/fivewire.htm">http://trainweb.org/jfuhrtrain/fivewire.htm</a><!-- m -->
That's also a very useful way of doing it indeed, thanks for the tip Russ
Re: Newbie - UK modeller attempting new ' Downtown LA' layou - torikoos - 06-17-2011
Hi Jonte,
just curious, did you find a workable solution for your backdrop? Or have you been busy laying track?
All the best, Koos
Re: Newbie - UK modeller attempting new ' Downtown LA' layou - jonte - 06-19-2011
torikoos Wrote:Hi Jonte,
just curious, did you find a workable solution for your backdrop? Or have you been busy laying track?
All the best, Koos
Hi Koos and thanks for your interest.
Apologies for the late reply but had a busy weekend - although not busy laying track :cry:
To answer your question, in between non railway related demands on my time, I've been quite busy with the backscene which is over two thirds complete, thankfully - if indeed any stage of construction can be measured
Frankly, I'm relieved that there's now light at the end of the tunnel, as the backscene has been the most difficult part of the construction so far. Although I had a fair idea of what I wanted, like everything else in this project, I've been pretty much making it up as I go along. The problems, as you're aware Koos, are two fold: primarily it has to be portable - like the rest of the layout - and secondly, seamless. Regrettably, I'm not much of an engineer, so I have to admit that I've failed in relation to the second prerequisite although I've managed to keep it to just one join - down the middle! - which I'm hoping shouldn't be too noticeable provided I make a half decent job of the modelling !! Otherwise, it will be fully portable, both pieces being joined - as usual - by hinges, the bolts having been replaced with home made pins. Also, there are no right angled corners, although achieving this has proved a bit of a headache. The frame is of ply reinforced with a planed 2" x 3/4" softwood crosspiece, the fascia being of 2mm card - cut from 4' x 3' sheets (approx). Corner formers of ply, have been shaped to the required radius so that the flexible, but vulnerable card, will be supported on all edges (easier to show than describe and I'll try and post some photos of my progress over the next couple of days after I've made a little more progress, so to speak). An added challenge concerns the curved bases of the corner pieces of the backscene which will, first, have fixing points marked and drilled in order to fix it to the baseboard, before marking for cutting to make the backscene removable - If I've lost you here, I apologise, but it's difficult to explain. In fact, it only occurred to after I'd got this far
- told you I'm making it up as I go along.Finally, the frame will be painted to match the rest of the layout and the fascia painted a pale blue colour to act as a cloudless 'sky'. I say finally: although the frame side pieces have been prepared, holes in the card fascia which will serve as entry/exit points for trains, won't be cut until I've finalised where the track will actually go. This is why the old adage, " which came first, the chicken or the egg" is so difficult to answer (the backscene came first I suppose, but won't be finished until the track is layed - nothing's ever straightforward 
With regard to track: I received several lenghts from The Sidings, Tamworth, Devon during the week, so track laying can begin in earnest some time during the coming week. However - yes another one!! - I will need to know roughly where to site my buildings in order to determine where to place my crossings and also what size the road widths will be as I need to scratchbuild the crossings from PCB, scrap rail and filed down rail to form the guide rail so prominent in the area I intend to site my work of fiction!! And of course, I won't be able to finish laying the track and thereby run some trains until the crossings are layed; plus, I've also got to finalise which buildings I intend to model from the real life district (think I've identified three so far) so perhaps there's still some way to go before track laying is finished.
Railway modelling, hey?
Perhaps I need an easier hobby
Best wishes,
Jonte
PS..........I've also ordered my new 'pulse' DC controller - I also forgot to mention that I still need to detail, decal, paint and weather my switcher - will this site still be running in ten years' time
Re: Newbie - UK modeller attempting new ' Downtown LA' layou - shortliner - 06-20-2011
Jonte - who did you order the controller from in the end?
Best
Jack
Re: Newbie - UK modeller attempting new ' Downtown LA' layou - torikoos - 06-20-2011
Ah The Sidings, I've not ordered anything from there yet, and I really should, it's my 'local' business after all (I live in Devon too, Torquay/Newton Abbot area) . I have been taking a look at his website a couple of times, at present hasn't got anything I need at this moment, it's just one of 'those' things .
Not to worry about your attempts to explain your constructions methods etc, I think I've followed it pretty well. A picture will confirm in time, if I did or not :-)
Some of us would post :needpics: , but that's not entirely true Looking forward to the next 10 years :-) I think this forum will exist as long as us users keep using it properly :-)
Koos
Re: Newbie - UK modeller attempting new ' Downtown LA' layou - Mr Fixit - 06-20-2011
Hi Jonte
I just quickly read through a couple of pages [sort of] and you sure have been busy with your benchwork.
I am impressed with the Dettol and tap water paint stripper technique. Who would have guessed?
Fairly cheap, safe for us and plastics and germ free.
Keep up the good work.
Mark
Re: Newbie - UK modeller attempting new ' Downtown LA' layou - jonte - 06-20-2011
shortliner Wrote:Jonte - who did you order the controller from in the end?
Best
Jack
Hi Jack
I took your advice (as always) and wrote to Roger Murray, who kindly and promptly wrote back to inform me that Stephen Hughes of <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.blackcattech.co.uk/">http://www.blackcattech.co.uk/</a><!-- m --> has taken over production. As I write, an LC101 with an output of 1.5 Amps - aimed at OO/HO gauges - together with 5-pin DIN plug (pre-wired) is whanging its way to me for a very reasonable total price of a tad over thirty quid. After reading that Stephen recently achieved a scale speed of 0.5 mph out of an old J94 Dapol model, well, I just had to have it, so a sincere thanks, Jack, for the heads up.
Best wishes,
Jonte.
Re: Newbie - UK modeller attempting new ' Downtown LA' layou - jonte - 06-20-2011
torikoos Wrote:Ah The Sidings, I've not ordered anything from there yet, and I really should, it's my 'local' business after all (I live in Devon too, Torquay/Newton Abbot area) . I have been taking a look at his website a couple of times, at present hasn't got anything I need at this moment, it's just one of 'those' things .
Not to worry about your attempts to explain your constructions methods etc, I think I've followed it pretty well. A picture will confirm in time, if I did or not :-)
Looking forward to the next 10 years :-) I think this forum will exist as long as us users keep using it properly :-)
Koos
Hi Koos
The gentleman proprietor of The Sidings, who gave his name as 'Justin', was extremely helpful and obliging. He left me in no shadow of doubt, that nothing would be too much trouble for him and he'd do his utmost to help. The problem, as you've suggested, is one of supply although I'm reliably informed that a delivery from the US of A is imminent. I ordered six lengths of ME Code 70 - reasonable price and delivery charges -although due to limited supply as mentioned, only the weathered variety was available. However, they arrived safe and well within 24 hours of placing my order, so how's that for service?
I'm glad you followed my drivel; I didn't
Photos tomorrow (promise) even if the backscene ain't finished!!Thanks again for your interest,
Jonte
Re: Newbie - UK modeller attempting new ' Downtown LA' layou - jonte - 06-20-2011
Mr Fixit Wrote:Hi Jonte
I just quickly read through a couple of pages [sort of] and you sure have been busy with your benchwork.
I am impressed with the Dettol and tap water paint stripper technique. Who would have guessed?
Fairly cheap, safe for us and plastics and germ free.
Keep up the good work.
Mark
Thanks, Mark.
Hopefully more soon - I prefer to look at pictures myself rather than read through reams of text (unless it's a 'how to' of course!!).
Best wishes,
Jonte
Re: Newbie - UK modeller attempting new ' Downtown LA' layou - torikoos - 06-20-2011
jonte Wrote:shortliner Wrote:Jonte - who did you order the controller from in the end?
Best
Jack
Hi Jack
I took your advice (as always) and wrote to Roger Murray, who kindly and promptly wrote back to inform me that Stephen Hughes of <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.blackcattech.co.uk/">http://www.blackcattech.co.uk/</a><!-- m --> has taken over production. As I write, an LC101 with an output of 1.5 Amps - aimed at OO/HO gauges - together with 5-pin DIN plug (pre-wired) is whanging its way to me for a very reasonable total price of a tad over thirty quid. After reading that Stephen recently achieved a scale speed of 0.5 mph out of an old J94 Dapol model, well, I just had to have it, so a sincere thanks, Jack, for the heads up.
Best wishes,
Jonte.
I used to have a similar controller, I build 'back in the day' from a schematic published in a dutch model railway magazine 'Railhobby'. I think it was a 1986 issue (yep, that long ago). It also uses the pulse principle, but unlike other controllers in it's day, the pulse strength (amplitude) did not vary, it was the pulse density, going from narrow pulses, to wider (and more frequent) until ultimately joining to getter as a DC signal.
I also managed to get some ridiculous low speeds with some Roco engines at the time.( after they were run in and warmed up :-) ) We used to place a ruler along the track, and then started to move a loco, as soon as we saw the wheels were turning, we'd taken note of the time, and then sat back and see how long it would take to move 1 meter.
In the end we went for a cup of tea and came back to the train room, finding the loco had only progressed about two thirds of that distance in 15 minutes or so. I remember calculating it back to a silly slow speed. 0.2KM per hour or so, which is approx 0.13mph If my calculations/conversions are correct.
Not bad for a home bake controller. I still have it somewhere in an obscure shoe box :-)
Koos
Re: Newbie - UK modeller attempting new ' Downtown LA' layou - shortliner - 06-21-2011
Jonte - I don't think you will be disappointed with that purchase
Re: Newbie - UK modeller attempting new ' Downtown LA' layou - jonte - 06-21-2011
Hi All
Photos of progress to date on back scene (as promised).
The first series of shots are of the right hand end, which has made the whole exercise more complicated than it should have been (actually, it's not the right hand end that's to blame but my bad decision to develop the original baseboards - undulations included - instead of starting afresh. It might have increased the initial cost of things, but the amount of angst avoided cannot be measured!! Most definitely a false economy.)
One of the curved formers to which the card fascia will be glued. Actually, this one is temporary and will be replaced once I'm happy with the former at the base which has had to be 'contoured' and cut to fit the different levels at this end and to allow the board to be removed for portability. The left hand end will also have to be cut for this purpose.
The lower former showing the results of surgery to accomodate it - this will all be hidden behind the fascia - thankfully! (this has gone out of sequence for some reason- bottom photo (apologies))
attachment=3]21061102.jpg[/attachment]
Right hand end in full showing the cut out where the train will exit onto the sector plate. The tin is holding in place the section of former which has been cut off and which will be fixed to the baseboard at that point - a centre former will be glued just above the parapet of the cut out to ensure the card is fixed at or near to its edges (the final cut in the fascia will be made when the location of the track has been determined).
An offcut of ply has been sandwiched between the backscene and the top of the baseboard to keep it equidistant.
An overall view looking towards the left hand end. The results of more cobbling to ensure things are plumb and true - as possible, anyway - at the right hand end can be seen in the foreground.
Re: Newbie - UK modeller attempting new ' Downtown LA' layou - jonte - 06-21-2011
Base of left hand end being weighted down whilst it's marked for a bracket to be fitted - usual method of hinge with pin replaced so that it can be removed.
Centre formers cut and waiting to be fitted as stated above parapet of openings in ply 'wings'.
Upper former at left hand end - method of construction can also be seen (not pretty but it's secure enough).
Hinge which will serve as bracket to secure this end of backscene can be seen in foreground awaiting fitting.
Overall view of left hand end.