P5se Camelback Wrote:Quoting DoctorWayne :

"There are some tips on adding weight to locos HERE and a simple how-to on casting your own weights HERE."

end quote.

NICE choice, there Doc! Thank you!!!

RobertInOntario Wrote:Well, I was able to find some much smaller square weights from one of my LHS's (although I'm still open to using fishing & hunting weights, just haven't had a chance to get to an outdoors store).

I've now weighted down a few locos and I've been impressed by how much more smoothly they run -- noticeably quieter and better at low speeds. This is encouraging me to add weights to some of my other locos, as long as I don't go crazy (I tend to overdo things)!

Rob

jim currie Wrote:

RobertInOntario Wrote:Well, I was able to find some much smaller square weights from one of my LHS's (although I'm still open to using fishing & hunting weights, just haven't had a chance to get to an outdoors store).
I've now weighted down a few locos and I've been impressed by how much more smoothly they run -- noticeably quieter and better at low speeds. This is encouraging me to add weights to some of my other locos, as long as I don't go crazy (I tend to overdo things)!
Rob

if they have a sticky back they are automotive wheel weights smallest i have see are 1/8 oz , you brought out a good point about weighting loco's of keeping the max amps that wheel slip occurs below the motor rating a 8,4 watt motor(.7 amps times 12 volts) should not be run at over 80% 6.72 watts .56 amps ( i belive that is the number) for a extended period of time or it will damage the motor. no wheel slip = fried motor.
jim

RobertInOntario Wrote:Any estimate of what the maximum weight would be for a typical HO loco? Rob

doctorwayne Wrote:

RobertInOntario Wrote:Any estimate of what the maximum weight would be for a typical HO loco? Rob

Rob, this will depend on the individual locomotive. When I was attempting to improve the pulling power of my Athearn Mikados, I made an "experimental" weight using sheet lead. Forming it into a "saddle-shape", I draped it over the boiler, held the tender with one hand, then applied power. The drivers slipped easily, showing that the applied weight was well within the limits of the motor's capabilities. Unfortunately, there was no way to physically cram all of that extra 22 ounces into the loco, as it would have been a great puller.
A simple way to test for the maximum allowable weight that can be added is to perform a similar test on each loco - for most, it will be impossible to hide that weight inside the body shell. When you apply the power, do not touch the loco to restrain it from moving. For a steam loco, hold the tender, and for diesels and other self-powered cars, couple on an unpowered freight or passenger car and and use that as the "brake handle". If the wheels slip when power is applied, your motor should be okay.

If your loco is equipped with traction tires (an abomination, in my opinion), be very careful when trying to add weight. Depending on the tires, slipping could be erratic, causing the loco to bounce as it alternately grips and slips. This is not good for the motor or the tires, as the latter can be stretched out-of-round, causing the loco to run with a pronounced "limp".

More important than the amount of weight added is the necessity to keep that weight balanced, and there's a little more info on that HERE (you need to scroll down beyond the original post).

All of my locos have had weight added, as my layout's many grades and curves offer an almost constant challenge to any locomotive attempting to move a train. When you've reached the point where your loco has no more room for extra weight, and, even with drivers slipping, it won't move the train, it's time to invest in more locos.

Wayne

doctorwayne Wrote:

RobertInOntario Wrote:Any estimate of what the maximum weight would be for a typical HO loco? Rob

Rob, this will depend on the individual locomotive. When I was attempting to improve the pulling power of my Athearn Mikados, I made an "experimental" weight using sheet lead. Forming it into a "saddle-shape", I draped it over the boiler, held the tender with one hand, then applied power. The drivers slipped easily, showing that the applied weight was well within the limits of the motor's capabilities. Unfortunately, there was no way to physically cram all of that extra 22 ounces into the loco, as it would have been a great puller.
A simple way to test for the maximum allowable weight that can be added is to perform a similar test on each loco - for most, it will be impossible to hide that weight inside the body shell. When you apply the power, do not touch the loco to restrain it from moving. For a steam loco, hold the tender, and for diesels and other self-powered cars, couple on an unpowered freight or passenger car and and use that as the "brake handle". If the wheels slip when power is applied, your motor should be okay.
If your loco is equipped with traction tires (an abomination, in my opinion), be very careful when trying to add weight. Depending on the tires, slipping could be erratic, causing the loco to bounce as it alternately grips and slips. This is not good for the motor or the tires, as the latter can be stretched out-of-round, causing the loco to run with a pronounced "limp".
More important than the amount of weight added is the necessity to keep that weight balanced, and there's a little more info on that HERE (you need to scroll down beyond the original post).
All of my locos have had weight added, as my layout's many grades and curves offer an almost constant challenge to any locomotive attempting to move a train. When you've reached the point where your loco has no more room for extra weight, and, even with drivers slipping, it won't move the train, it's time to invest in more locos. Wayne

Russ Bellinis Wrote:As long as the wheels are able to slip the motor will be fine. he motors fail when the wheels won't slip and the motor is stalled for a period of time.