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+--- Thread: Freelance 2014-2 (/showthread.php?tid=6708)
Re: Freelance 2014-2 - faraway - 04-12-2014
doctorwayne Wrote:....., then use a sharp blade to trace along the distinct lines....That is the step where the curve gets messed up. The only method that works for me "sometimes" is to use very thin styrene and cut it with a scissor along the line made with the pencil following the rail.But it requires to use styrene as thin as paper to get the pencil line like described for paper. This is an old photo using that technique.
Wayne
The blue foam ends at the ties and the very thin styrene extends up to the side of the rails. Between the rails is blue foam only. It is flexible and follows the curve.
![[Image: IMG_1439.jpg]](http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae149/faraway52/FL2012/IMG_1439.jpg)
Re: Freelance 2014-2 - doctorwayne - 04-12-2014
The roadway/parking lot shown in my previous photo is .060" styrene. Once the initial line has been scored, a somewhat tedious task, it's a simple matter to follow the scored line with successive passes until the sheet can be snapped apart.
Wayne
Re: Freelance 2014-2 - faraway - 04-13-2014
I had a wonderful Sunday morning full of hard dirty labor work. My wife told me it's my hobby :o
![[Image: IMG_3225_zps302740bb.jpg]](http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae149/faraway52/FL2014-2/IMG_3225_zps302740bb.jpg)
Re: Freelance 2014-2 - modelsof1900 - 04-13-2014
Reinhard, do you know what you do? Alles kaputt!
Re: Freelance 2014-2 - faraway - 04-14-2014
Bernhard, I am not sure I knew in advance what I was going to do when I look at my large blisters on both hands...
Sunday was a trainings day at the east side. Monday was serious work at the west side and the center. I did run out of blades for the plane. Sand and ballast "eats" the blades like sweets.
The plaster covered street running track could be handled after I changed my paradigm from railroad modeling to construction/demolition labor work and got the large hammer from the cellar
I have a serious question to those of you with a chemical background:
I am using the same white glue (Ponal classic) since years. I observe the expected procedure when removing ballast. Soak with water, wait some time and remove. The glue will become soft and you get some kind of mud. That is not true for areas covered with sand. The fine white sand I use is intended to be used in bird cages. Is there a possibility "sand" interacts with the white glue and makes it water resistant? The glue-sand mix becomes like concrete. Only an extreme thin part at the surface (max 1/50") softens with water after hours of soaking. It looks to me like glue-ballast acts different to water than glue-sand after it has set for some month. Any explanation?
![[Image: IMG_3226_zps91d34868.jpg]](http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae149/faraway52/FL2014-2/IMG_3226_zps91d34868.jpg)
Re: Freelance 2014-2 - Mike Kieran - 04-14-2014
What kind of sand is it?
Re: Freelance 2014-2 - faraway - 04-14-2014
Mike Kieran Wrote:What kind of sand is it?It is not specified in any technical terms. It comes packed in plastic bags and is intended to be used in bird cages (e.g. budgie or fink).
Re: Freelance 2014-2 - Mike Kieran - 04-14-2014
Is there a brand name for the sand?
Re: Freelance 2014-2 - faraway - 04-14-2014
Mike Kieran Wrote:Is there a brand name for the sand?Not a specific one but I found in Google about German "Vogelsand" that it is usually made of quartz sand / silica sand.
This is a typical example how it is sold http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00GZOT47A/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=479289147&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B004Z5ZRCW&pf_rd_m=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF&pf_rd_r=0FF7E8Q2Q1AW9YRRBJZP
Re: Freelance 2014-2 - Mike Kieran - 04-14-2014
If it's what I'm thinking of, it formed a waterproof seal.
Re: Freelance 2014-2 - faraway - 04-14-2014
Mike Kieran Wrote:If it's what I'm thinking of, it formed a waterproof seal.Mike, thanks a lot. That is a very important information. I will avoid "Vogelsand/quartz sand" on my layout in the future.
This "Vogelsand" was so attractive because it is available in a lot of local shops and it is really cheep.
Re: Freelance 2014-2 - ratled - 04-14-2014
Next time try using isopropal alcohol instead of water as the soaking agent. The ISP is a great surface tension release agent and maybe able to penetrate the tough spots. I learned this on the last layout I helped to bring down and all of the track was good enough to be re used again - some it was on it's 4th layout.
ratled
Re: Freelance 2014-2 - faraway - 04-14-2014
ratled Wrote:Next time try using isopropal alcohol instead of water as the soaking agent. The ISP is a great surface tension release agent and maybe able to penetrate the tough spots. I learned this on the last layout I helped to bring down and all of the track was good enough to be re used again - some it was on it's 4th layout.I have tried that and my airbrush cleaner too. Both had no effect
ratled
But I would like to know a fluid I can use instead of water to "crack" my home made concrete. I used my brute force method to cleanup the main areas but it would be handy to have a more subtile method to cleanup smaller spots surrounded by celery.
Re: Freelance 2014-2 - Mike Kieran - 04-14-2014
If it's what I'm thinking of, there may be a powdery clay in the mix. I guess trying the Isopropyl Alcohol can't hurt. I'll research more tomorrow. Otherwise, hello belt sander and/or grinder. It may be necessary to just put on a new surface on top of everything just to keep from breathing in whatever in dust form during allergy season and/or keep your sanity.
Re: Freelance 2014-2 - faraway - 04-14-2014
I gave it a second try with alcohol but it did not work again. In fact I soaked a spot three times with alcohol for about 15 minutes but it did not work. Brute force is the name of the game. May be model railroading can be nominated for the olympic games next time? It is a very physical hobby (to me).