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+--- Thread: Wyoming valley super Mike kitbash (/showthread.php?tid=6890)
Re: Wyoming valley super Mike kitbash - Steamtrains - 11-23-2014
Great work...And patience...!!
When I built my Mike from a Mantua kit,there were times when I was on the verge of pitching the whole thing against the wall...
Re: Wyoming valley super Mike kitbash - e-paw - 11-23-2014
I know the feeling Steamy ,,,,When Soldering on the walkways I had to use a lot of heat, this caused other solder seams to open. It took several attempts to get everything to stay together and stay straight.
Re: Wyoming valley super Mike kitbash - Schraddel - 11-27-2014
e-paw Wrote:I know the feeling Steamy ,,,,When Soldering on the walkways I had to use a lot of heat, this caused other solder seams to open. It took several attempts to get everything to stay together and stay straight.Remember the guy who wanted to solder some additional details onto the boilershell of his Korean build brass loco. He addes a lot of heat too to make strong soldering connections, but in fact the boiler "exploded" and spitted nearly all his detail parts into the room, spreading according Murphy's laws into the never-never-find-again-corners, because the Koreans did not bend the boiler sheets correct before soldering and so they were under a strong tension.
On a Monday of course :evil:
Cheers
Lutz
Re: Wyoming valley super Mike kitbash - e-paw - 12-02-2014
Work has progressed some on the Mike. I filled the rest of the holes in the boiler, added the lagging, and the walkways on the firebox. The cab is nearly complete and is just held on by gravity at this time.
Re: Wyoming valley super Mike kitbash - e-paw - 10-18-2015
I really need to get going on this again....
I just wish all my old pics were still here. I do have these two.
Re: Wyoming valley super Mike kitbash - modelsof1900 - 10-18-2015
Looking very, very good this large model!
Re: Wyoming valley super Mike kitbash - e-paw - 10-28-2015
We have brakes!!!!
I modified a set of plastic brake hangers from a Bachmann 2-8-0 (the reading type) for the first three axles, and the rear brake arm from a leftover Lee Town casting. I like the plastic shoes as there is no chance of the detail parts shorting between the frame and drivers.
In order to get the Bachmann brakes to line up with the drivers correctly I had to add a little spacer behind them. All eight hangers are held in position with a 00-90 screw just like the original model was. once painted they should not be noticeable.
Looks like the pilot deck details will be next. I will have to work out the dimensions of the air tanks and walkway steps from some photos.
Re: Wyoming valley super Mike kitbash - Schraddel - 10-29-2015
e-paw Wrote:I modified a set of plastic brake hangers from a Bachmann 2-8-0 (the reading type) for the first three axles, and the rear brake arm from a leftover Lee Town casting. I like the plastic shoes as there is no chance of the detail parts shorting between the frame and drivers.
You made very wise decision e-paw! 
Lutz
Re: Wyoming valley super Mike kitbash - e-paw - 11-01-2015
Today I fabricated the pilot mounted auxiliary air tanks. On the prototype they were used to add extra braking capacity for the heavy down grades near Ashley PA. In the pic you can also see my first attempt at the pilot ladders, I'm not happy with them, and will do them over.
Although they are not installed I put them in place in for the next two pics.
Re: Wyoming valley super Mike kitbash - e-paw - 11-05-2015
Some more work to the pilot deck. Air tanks are now mounted and plumbed. Boiler supports are in, and the brake line is now attached. I am still not happy with how the steps came out, they are now up to take 2. the crazy glue that I used to fasten them to the pilot deck has softened the solvent glue used on the plastic and caused them to shift and warp. I need to make them from brass but all those solders right next to each other will be difficult to do without them coming apart.
Re: Wyoming valley super Mike kitbash - doctorwayne - 11-05-2015
Steve, if you can make some sort of jig to hold the parts of the steps in their proper positions, soldering it together won't be all that difficult. I'm thinking a flat piece of wood for the base of the jig, with wood spacers with a triangular cross-section to support the steps and strips along each side to keep the stringers tight to the step ends - use carpenter's glue to put it all together.
You will need to pre-tin the entire inside face of the stringers and the ends of the individual steps. Place the parts in the jig, then touch the iron to the area of one step's end and its stringer. As soon as the joint cools, place a small wad of wet tissue or paper towel on that joint, then do the same at that step's opposite end, working your way up or down until all are connected. You will likely need to use some small files to clean-up any excess solder, both at the actual joints and on the inside face of the stringers. If you place some additional wet tissue on the entire step assembly, (and temporarily remove the plastic air tanks) and then pre-tin the pilot deck where the steps will be located, you should be able to solder them to the deck - this is one place where a large soldering iron finds its place in model making, but make sure to protect any nearby soldered joints with more wet tissue.
An alternative would be Cal-Scale Pilot Steps, part #6543. I used them on my modifed Bachmann 10 Wheelers and removed, if I recall correctly, two steps from each, so they're plenty long enough for your Mikes.
![[Image: 033.jpg]](http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b399/doctorwayne/Erie%20Northshore%20Ten-Wheelers/033.jpg)
Wayne
Re: Wyoming valley super Mike kitbash - e-paw - 11-06-2015
Do you mean this part Doc???
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.bowserorders.com/.sc/ms/dd/HO%20Detail%20Parts--Cal%20Scale/11275003/Cal%20Scale%20HO%20ENGINE%20LADDERS%20PR.%20LD-131">http://www.bowserorders.com/.sc/ms/dd/H ... .%20LD-131</a><!-- m -->
#190-598
Engine Ladders PR LD-131
6543 seams to be the steps that would go on the pilot.
Re: Wyoming valley super Mike kitbash - doctorwayne - 11-06-2015
Could be, Steve. I know that I used Cal-Scale steps, but couldn't recall the part number. I went to Bowser's site and all that showed was a list, a very long list, of part numbers, with no illustrations. For some reason, I thought that the parts which I used had a four digit number.
For anyone accustomed to Cal-Scale's original small yellow catalogue, the range of detail parts currently available from them is mind boggling. You're not all that far from their store, I'd guess, and I've always found the drive there, even from southern Ontario, to be well worth it (well, maybe not so much right now, when our dollar is worth less than $.75 U.S.).
Wayne
Re: Wyoming valley super Mike kitbash - Schraddel - 11-07-2015
@Wayne
The pictures for the Cal Scale 6000er series of parts are here:
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://bowser-trains.com/docs/Cal%20Scale/6000.pdf">http://bowser-trains.com/docs/Cal%20Scale/6000.pdf</a><!-- m -->
As noted they were made for Far East brass loco builders and when sold out, they were really gone.
The describing text for this parts and the information if something is still available is the list.
@e-paw
An alternative for the loco steps i have found here:
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://greenwayproducts.com/brass-builders-corner-trackside-specialties/ts-602-gangway-steps-ho-scale-clone-en/">http://greenwayproducts.com/brass-build ... -clone-en/</a><!-- m -->
But hurry, last orders are scheduled until Nov.17. this year, then you will wait until April 2016
Then i have a question to your awesome work; will it be possible to mount the steps, instead onto the pilot deck, onto the running boards?
My suggestion: If you prefer the plastic solution, there is the possibility to glue a thin "mounting plate" on the upper end of the thread supports? such an mounting plate will enlarge the area for glueing the plastic onto the underside of the brass running boards and will be nearly invisible.
And what is about soldering brass steps onto the running board?
My two cents to your awesome work.
Lutz
Re: Wyoming valley super Mike kitbash - e-paw - 11-07-2015
Thanks for the info Gents...I stopped by the LHS today but came up empty handed,,, going to try one in Jersey Monday. If that doesn't work I'll have to order them. If that doesn't work I have a plan "B". I found out today I need sander valves also...All in all I did get some more work done today.
I removed the take 2 steps, added the Glove valve on the steam dome , starting valves and ashpans on the firebox, and a few boiler steps.
I added most of he appliances under the walkway on the engineers side. I started here because this is the simpler side of the loco. The fireman's side is a bit more complex. Everything that could be soldered on was, everything else was attached with CA of epoxy.
I did have a mishap with a hot soldering iron.
I melted the corner of the cab roof while I was looking at some reference photos.. I cut out the damaged corner and grafted in a new section of plastic. when the glue hardens up she'll get some body putty and reshaping,, that should hide the damage.