CN Blackwater division
#16
Yeah it hurts to tear down a layout but it usually gets the creative juices flowing when you start planning the next one.
Mike

Sent from my pocket calculator using two tin cans and a string
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#17
So I took down the last of it:
   

Originally I had built the 2X8 a as a 2 piece portable module, that was bolted together in the middle. To add it to this layout I screwed it together and sceniced over the joint. 
   

Then After a through cleaning of the room with both the shop-vac and our good vacuum cleaner, I decided to lay out the footprint of the new layout with masking tape. The far end in the photo shows the 5X4' section that will have the narrow gauge section re-attached. I allowed for a 2' wide operator 'pit' in the center with the hinged drop down marked out to the side.

   

the other end is 7X3' section, I'm thinking of adding a small access hatch/hole in the far corner and widening this another 6" for just a bit more space. As it stands the two sides are almost 9' long and range from 2-2 1/2' wide.
   

The drop-down is 1'6" wide. I figure that should be enough for an average person to squeeze through on their way in. The tape measure is showing the 48" diameter turn the track will go.

   

The opposite end with the tape measure showing the 60" diameter mainline turn that will be on this end. Keep in mind that I plan to make the branchline incline to curve outside the mainline so I'll need plenty on room here. I also hope to put my sawmill either on the inside of the mainline here or the other end.
I hope to start building the benchwork this weekend.
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#18
Ahhhhhhhhhhh, the planning stage! So much fun when you realize at this stage any mistakes you make are very easy to correct unlike when construction has started.
Mike

Sent from my pocket calculator using two tin cans and a string
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#19
Well construction has started. Yesterday a friend came by with his truck and we carted the unsalvageable remains of the old layout away. Then we dropped by the lumberyard:
     

We picked up one sheet of 3/4" fir plywood, two sheets of 1/2" fir plywood and 8, 8' 2X2's. Grand total, 172$ Canadian. The 3/4 is to be ripped into 3" strips for framing and the 1/2 will be for roadbed and the layout surface. The 2X2's are the new legs as I have agreed not to attach the layout to the walls.

   

This is the pile of Salvaged material that I have. I already used a fair amount when this picture was taken. Yesterday I also made a trip to a local pawn shop and found an almost new Ryobi circular saw for 30$. It's cheap but does the job. It's not like I'm building a house with it.

   

With the salvaged material I was pretty much able to frame the one end part. This it about 3 1/2' X 7' . I still have to add some more cross braces but it's already pretty strong. I also had enough to build almost half of the other end as well. 
Next I have to rip some 3" lengths out of the 3/4" plywood sheet that I got yesterday be fore I can continue with the framing.
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#20
If nothing else you got a heck of a deal on the saw. I always enjoy build threads and appreciate your posting the progress photos.

Tom
Life is simple - Eat, Drink, Play with trains

Occupation: Professional Old Guy (The government pays me to be old.)
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#21
I got a fair amount of progress over the past two days. 
First I started ripping the 3/4 plywood into 3"X8' lengths
   

First, I'm going to point out that I an not a carpenter by any means. Mostly my benchwork and carpentry technics are learned from others both in the hobby and places I have worked.
I didn't trust myself to cut a straight line 8 feet long so I set up an guide with a 1X2 that was clamped and screwed into the plywood. That worked well for two cuts when:

     

When you buy a cheap saw, you get a cheap blade. This one lasted only a few cuts before it was toast. it also made a mess of a few lengths I cut before I realized it was that bad. This morning I went out and bought a new improved blade and it works just fine.
I then spent a few hours this afternoon assembling benchwork:
   

It's one thing to have a tape outline on the floor, it's another to see it in 3 dimensions. 

   

I built the two ends first then attached them with the length on the back wall. I still have a fair amount of inner framing to do but you get the idea.
   

I also used the rear piece to form a 'friction fit' between the far wall and the small jog in the back wall. It's pretty tight and will keep the layout from moving. I still am planning to add bracing to the legs to make it as a solid a structure as I can. Speaking of the legs, I can really appreciate the extra 6 inches of height, no more bending way down for me.


Attached Files Image(s)
   
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#22
On a side note I went to a swap meet yesterday and got pretty much all the track and wiring supplies I'll need for this project. all I think I still will need are rail joiners, both metal and insulated.
   
I got the wire for my bus lines and the track feeders, a bag of suitcase connectors, and some track accessories
   

I bundle of gently used code 100 track and a bundle of 10 lengths brand new code 83 flextrack. I got the code 83 for about 50% of what the local hobby shop would want. I originally was going to lay the whole layout in code 100 but now I plan to build the mainline in code 100 and the branch in 83 for a bit of contrast.  


   

2 atlas code 83 short turnouts for the branchline, 2 peco medium code 100 turnouts, 1 HOn3 #6 turnout and one dual gauge #6 turnout.

I think I should have all the track I'll need
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#23
Not as much progress today but I did finish the last main framework.
   

I did have some trouble with this part. I thought I could simply frame the angle in and it would hold in place. Instead when I tightened the screws it kept trying to straighten itself and was throwing the alignment for the future drop gate out. I finally figured out what was happening and framed it in square and I'll add the angle piece in when I add the 1/2 decking to the top. That should keep everything in place. 
   
In the meantime, I have a short piece of wood clamped over the gate gap to keep the alignment until I can get some decking in place to firm up the structure.
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#24
Progress!!
I've almost finished off the benchwork
   

This morning I added the stringers to the framework, making it much more stable. I also started to add some leg braces but the still didn't keep everything form shifting. It was at that time that I decided to 'cheat' a bit and anchored the benchwork into the walls with some 2 1/2" screws. Now I'm happy with the results.

   

A friend came over this afternoon and we cut the mainline and branchline roadbed curves out of 1/2" plywood. My friend just went through the same process that I am so he had a nice trammel that we used to mark out the curves. We also marked the track centerline which will make tracklaying easier.
   

The 30" radius for the mainline. 
   

And this pile is the 30" radius for the branchline to the stamp mill and logging area.  I'll be piecing this together in a way that it will run outside the mainline on a grade.
We managed to get all the curves cut out of one 4X8 sheet of plywood with some left over.
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#25
I've got about 1/2 of the roadbed and top surface in now:

   
I started with figuring out the position for the 24" curve and tacked that in, then added the light colored piece of plywood. I got some extra plywood from work, Birch Plywood from Russia. It's a very high quality plywood that is very clean and rot-resistant.

   
I then added the decking to the future larger city section. I used a full-length piece of fir plywood here to add rigidity to the table top. After adding the decking to this piece and the pervious shown section, the layout is fairly firm now.
   

I then figured out the 30" curve on the opposite end and I've started to piece together the branchline to the stamp mill. You can see where I have temporarily placed a bridge on the branchline, I plan to add a river/creek running across the layout in this area so I'll be adding a bridge to the mainline as well. The branchline sections are marked to be cut and placed, I just haven't gotten that far quite yet. I also have to figure out the grade that I'll be using for that line as well.


   

And with the decking installed I started to lay out some of my turnouts for the branchline and future passing siding. But first, I have to lay the roadbed for the other side to complete the loop and finish off the line to the mill.
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#26
I did some planning for the stamp mill:

   

I lined up the mill where I wanted it on one of the plywood pieces that I have, as well as two tracks. This time I'm going to have a separate siding for the stamp mill while the line continues past to the logging camp. The mill and two tracks are 16" away from the wall. Keep in mind that they will be 4" higher than they are now.


   



   



Then I laid some more of the plywood and tack down to get an idea of the room I'll be working with. The turnouts will be for a passing siding and a future siding to my sawmill.


   


Then I penciled in some track lines and elevation cuts in to see what it will look like.
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#27
I built the upper level where the stamp mill will reside:
   

I'm not entirely sure I want it that big though, as it takes away real estate below where my small town and some sidings are planned. 


   

I made and penciled in lines on the new section for a 24" radius 's' curve. I'm thinking if I move the stamp mill a few inches closer to the jog in the wall and make the 's' a 20" radius I can get more space down below. (I added the 3" boards to represent the branchline and mainline runs.)
   

Any thoughts? Ideas?
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#28
Hello,

perhaps making a bulge were the town will be placed?
Making a bulge by means of widen the base plate into the room with a extra plate. This widening may be detachable.

my  2 €ents

Lutz
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#29
I think I came up with a solution/compromise.

   

First, I moved the mill a few inches closer to the jog in the wall. I plan to hide that with some scenery of some sort.
Next I replaced the left hand turnout with a right, incorporating it into the curve. Then I shrank my radius from 24" to around 20-22" 

   

You can see the new track path that I penciled in
I think I can cut a bit off the upper deck now and give the lower areas more room.
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#30
I got quite a bit done over this past weekend.
   

I finished off the roadbed to the stampmill and logging camp. I think I made the grade gentle enough so I can shove a 4-5 car train up it. I also made allowances for the bridges that will go in. Better to add those now than to try to figure them out later.

   

   

I also added the decking to the smaller townsite. I trimmed some of the upper area and moved it to the lower. I'm fairly happy with the space I have now.
   

This is where the other bridge will go. Canadians will recognize the orange Juneco Box.
   

I picked this 75' deck timber bridge a few years ago and have been waiting for a chance to use it. Using the plans in the kit I gave the roadbed a 11" gap that should fit the bridge.

   

With this last piece of main decking/roadbed attached, I'm ready to start laying track. 
I am wondering about cork roadbed. My last layout was all cork roadbed. At first I was thinking of ditching roadbed entirely but then I was also thinking of corking the main and passing sidings and laying the rest of the track directly on the plywood. Haven't decided that one quite yet.
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