04-06-2015, 05:08 AM
Cross posted from tips & tricks (hope that's ok, maybe this is more appropriate section anyway)
I'm back to building my baseboard but stalled on choosing a method for module connection and track transition. I could really do with some advice from those more experienced than I.
My layout is modular to allow it to be moved when I move house. However it will probably stay up for a year or more. I have an aversion to really obvious module joins. I can cope with a fair amount of time necessary in setting up again at new property including some rework on the track at joins as I'll use PVA glue for adhering the track direct to plywood baseboard, ballest will be adhered with dilute PVA. That should allow me to rewet and nudge the track if necessary.
I don't have a lot of experience with modules so I had planned to follow an approach used often in the UK for exhibition layouts. DCC components baseboard dowels and bolts with wing nuts. The track cut right at the baseboard join with brass screws or PCB sleeper and soldered. However I'm now wondering if I'm over engineering this for my purpose.
Option 1
PROS: fast set up, accurate realignment of track, ballest fixed right up to module end
CONS: accurate drilling and initial alignment paramount, more obvious module gap?
So I thiigh again and looked at ending the fixed track before the module ends and using a transition section of rail that can be dropped in. The idea being, I understand, is a higher tolerance in module alignment. I could then use clamps or just bolts to secure the baseboards together.
Option 2
PROS: higher tolerance to misalignment aka my bad building skills, less obvious track gap?
CONS: concern over robustness, trouble with fixing ballest on transition track piece.
I would quite like to minimise the work I need to do, especially if accuracy is so crucial. As this is semi-permenant it's important to me that I disguise the module gaps and track transitions as best I can. I had though that I may bridge the gaps with thin styrene sheet extending a way onto each module where it can be disguised. Then cutting it when I move and repair it somehow. Possible it could only be lightly glued to the baseboard allowing removal so it can be replaced entirely.
My concern with option 2 is how to ballest the transition piece so it blends in with the rest of the track. As it needs to be removable and the fishplates/track joiners need to be easily moved after a year. Has anyone had any experience with this?
I am of course willing to consider other options but I'm keen on using my recent found motivation to get the bench work up in the spare room and lay track:-) it doesn't come often to me for a variety of reasons!
I appreciate any advice.
Kind regards,
Steve
I'm back to building my baseboard but stalled on choosing a method for module connection and track transition. I could really do with some advice from those more experienced than I.
My layout is modular to allow it to be moved when I move house. However it will probably stay up for a year or more. I have an aversion to really obvious module joins. I can cope with a fair amount of time necessary in setting up again at new property including some rework on the track at joins as I'll use PVA glue for adhering the track direct to plywood baseboard, ballest will be adhered with dilute PVA. That should allow me to rewet and nudge the track if necessary.
I don't have a lot of experience with modules so I had planned to follow an approach used often in the UK for exhibition layouts. DCC components baseboard dowels and bolts with wing nuts. The track cut right at the baseboard join with brass screws or PCB sleeper and soldered. However I'm now wondering if I'm over engineering this for my purpose.
Option 1
PROS: fast set up, accurate realignment of track, ballest fixed right up to module end
CONS: accurate drilling and initial alignment paramount, more obvious module gap?
So I thiigh again and looked at ending the fixed track before the module ends and using a transition section of rail that can be dropped in. The idea being, I understand, is a higher tolerance in module alignment. I could then use clamps or just bolts to secure the baseboards together.
Option 2
PROS: higher tolerance to misalignment aka my bad building skills, less obvious track gap?
CONS: concern over robustness, trouble with fixing ballest on transition track piece.
I would quite like to minimise the work I need to do, especially if accuracy is so crucial. As this is semi-permenant it's important to me that I disguise the module gaps and track transitions as best I can. I had though that I may bridge the gaps with thin styrene sheet extending a way onto each module where it can be disguised. Then cutting it when I move and repair it somehow. Possible it could only be lightly glued to the baseboard allowing removal so it can be replaced entirely.
My concern with option 2 is how to ballest the transition piece so it blends in with the rest of the track. As it needs to be removable and the fishplates/track joiners need to be easily moved after a year. Has anyone had any experience with this?
I am of course willing to consider other options but I'm keen on using my recent found motivation to get the bench work up in the spare room and lay track:-) it doesn't come often to me for a variety of reasons!
I appreciate any advice.
Kind regards,
Steve
UK Engineering fan, from the tiny artistically engineered to the huge and powerful