Adding point motors

[tv_man]

First of all, I haven't laid any track yet, but I think it might be worth asking before it's too late.

I decided to add point motors to make the wire jungle under the layout even more of a mess, and now I have a few questions:
1: Is size an issue? Will I be able to use OO point motors for my N points (I'm looking at some British ones to use as they could be hidden under the layout - couldn't care less about having the ugly above-ground mechanisms of my minitrix points visible.)
2: Latching mechanism: I will probably cut away the original hand switching mechanism but I think that also houses the latching mechanism, so would that have to be added to the point motor? Any simple DIY solution employing a spring or something?
3: Would a separate power source be adviseable? (I have two ~0,5A transformers for running the trains) How about utilizing capacitors?

Again thanks for taking your time answering my (newbie) questions...

edit:
4: Point motors under the layout could be introduced at a later stage without too much remodeling, right?

[RobertInOntario]

I don't have any answers but also am interested in finding out how this is done. I have a small 3x5 layout and am thinking of adding 1-2 point motors to a couple of turnouts. Until now, I've always operated points by hand but think it would be good to have motors for the ones on the far side of the layout.

Thanks, Rob

[tv_man]

My layout is just one foot deep, but I feel that especially given the fairly dense trackwork it might detract from the operating experience to be manually fiddling around on the layout all the time. Uncoupling rails would be a next thing to consider, I guess....

[poliss]

Neither Peco or Hornby point motors will fit Minitrix points. The mechanism is completely different. Minitrix point motors can be hidden under the baseboard by turning them upside down. When turned upside down the left handed point motor fits right hand points and right handed point motors fit left hand points. You will need to cut holes for the point motors as you lay the track. Leaving it till later will be very difficult.
You must use the correct passing contact switches for changing the points. These give a short pulse of power. Continuous power will burn out the motors in seconds. The switches must be connected to the aux power terminals on your controller. A CDU (Capacitor Discharge Unit) may be added between the controller and the passing contact switches for more reliable operation if you're using more than two or three point motors.
In place of passing contact switches you can use the 'stud and probe' method. This is where you would have a track schematic board with wired studs placed where the points are drawn. Then you touch the studs with something that looks like a wired pen which completes the circuit.

A small tip. Tidy up the jungle under your layout by taping them down. Use coloured wires to avoid confusion.

See Brian Lamberts website for an illustrated guide to almost everything about model railways. :-)
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[tv_man]

Thanks poliss!

Am I correct that the Minitrix point motors will still be on the surface, more or less on the same level as much of the trackwork (and thus barely less visible than surface-mounted motors), or can they really be hidden under the baseboard?

[nomad]

There are lots of options besides Hornby and Peco. Here's one.

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Loren

[poliss]

When Minitrix point motors are turned over they are level with the bottom of the track. You can cover them over with masking tape and ballast over them. Be carefull not to foul the red switch or the points won't work. I've just had a look at my Minitrix points and don't think that Tortoise motors will fit either.
I'm changing all my points for ones made by Kato and Tomix as with those makes the point motors are built into the base of the track so they look much better.

[tv_man]

I don't have the points here at hand, but wouldn't it be possible to attach the pin coming from the point motor underneath to the red switch? I have a mix of these points, some of them with only the red switch visible, others with a moulded on (one piece with the point's sleepers) box containing a hand switching mechanism (inclusing the latching bits, I think), which would have to be removed if I wouldn't want it visible leaving only the bare minimum of the switch. (or would this be unwise to do, risking complete failure of the mechanism)

[poliss]

If you compare the Peco and Minitrix points you will see that their mode of operation is completely different. Most point motors have a pin which locates in the hole in the switching mechanism and there are also holes in the Peco point for fitting of the motor. You will notice that the action to move the points in the Peco version is at 90 degrees to the Minitrix points and also that there is no hole in a Minitrix point lever for the point motor pin to fit into. Although I suppose it would be possible to modify the point motor or point lever in some way it would be difficult. I would suggest that fitting the Minitrix point motors upside down, or changing to a different make of points would be far easier.

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[tv_man]

Right, thank you for your through answer. Will have to find a way to hide the motors then one way or another.