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EDIT
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Thanks biL but I'm way past that point now. I was going to use for the base layer of my layout but went with foam instead. Thx.
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You spike your track down onto foam? :o  hock: hock:
And the foam holds it? :?: :o
Well, at least if anyone else wants Homosote and can't find it, the info on how to chase it down is here now. If you can't find it using what I have provided, maybe you should consider that new stuff that has the roadbed already on it and you just snap the pieces together. I don't know, it just seems that in just about everything these days it's gotta be instant this and instant that ... nobody wants to spend the time to do anything, or to enjoy the feeling of personal satisfaction of looking at it when it's finally done and knowing that you did it! Personal Satisfaction ... What's that?  
I still don't understand how foam can hold the track ... :?
I moisten my spikes before I drive them home and the rust that develops on the spikes grabs the the wood ties and the homosote and helps hold them in and the rail doesn't move!  Tricky!! :!:  
biL
Lehigh Susquehanna & Western
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I don't think it's so much the foam that's holding the spikes but rather the corkbed glued to the foam that does the job. I use all flextrack and have never had a problem with my track trying to come up. I don't even glue my track down... until the ballast comes along that is and then it might as well be set in stone.
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I'm a big fan of foam as a base, cork roadbed glued to the foam, then track glued to the cork. And as TN mentions, the ballast glue certainly holds everything together. As I mentioned, I do glue the track down first because you can never tell howl ong it will take before I get to the ballast.
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biL
Lehigh Susquehanna & Western
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Well, here in Central Ontario, we have very humid summers, Homosote is not such a good idea.
Most of the model railroaders up here use either the "wood/cork/track" style or "foam/track" with optional cork depending on your choice.
The open frame and cookie cutter style seems to be best and gets away from the "open prairie" look of a flat layout. The real world has small rises and depressions everywhere.
As for spiking, it is a good idea in N Scale NOT to spike.
My general procedure, as well as the one used by Paul Aegerter when he constructed our shop layout, <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.muskokacomputes.com/Shop-Layout.html">http://www.muskokacomputes.com/Shop-Layout.html</a><!-- m --> , is to glue the cork to the foam or wood, then glue the track to the cork. Push pins are used to hold the cork in place until the glue dries.
If you use track nails or spikes, you run the risk of forcing the track out of gauge. Our method removes that possibility and provides for smoother running trains.
Will Annand
CVR in N Scale
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I know this topic has changed directions, but I can share my recent experiences re: searching for Homasote. Didn't think of looking on the Homasote site as Camelback wrote. In my case, I called the smaller lumber places in my area - all carried it. One, in fact, happened to be less than 1/2 mile from my house. That site also does custom cuts (millwork and such) which is a handy service if you want to avoid the dust that cutting Homasote with a circular saw creates (there's always the very clean (edge and dustwise), but harder work of using a utility knife as well).
I like the "make it rust" spiking tip! I'm using it on my shelf layout, and even un-rusty spikes grip like crazy!
One thing that intrigues me about Homasote, and is a weighting factor in whether I use it extensively or not is the fact that it is a wholly recycled material (from newspaper), and to my understanding was the very first recycled material product in the world  ! Cork, on the other hand, is a harvested product that is apparently becoming harder to find, making Homasote an apparently more sustainable material.
Matt
Matt Goodman
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I like to cut Homasote with a toothless (knife-type) blade in my jigsaw (well that little hand held power cutter). This produces no dust and an unbelievable edge. Problem one is that I can't find them anymore. Problem 2 is that they heat up when used too fast or too long and lose their temper.
Practically all the track-bearing surface of my layout (and most of the rest) is Homasote, without a layer below it.
David
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Instead of "making it rust", I put a dab of dilute matte medium (ballast solution) on every spike head, then after it dried, went and tapped the spike down snug using a special tool I made. It is a short steel rod with a slot cut in one end, that way I can tap both spikes on either side of the rail at the same time. Things have remained pretty snug so far.
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Will_Annand Wrote:If you use track nails or spikes, you run the risk of forcing the track out of gauge. Our method removes that possibility and provides for smoother running trains. I guess you might run that risk depending on your track laying skills. I spike everything, don't glue anything (until the ballast step), and feel confident with my very smooth running trains that I could leave the room as they ran, IF I wanted to.
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TrainNut Wrote:I guess you might run that risk depending on your track laying skills. I spike everything, don't glue anything (until the ballast step), and feel confident with my very smooth running trains that I could leave the room as they ran, IF I wanted to.
Just don't snug them too tight. You want the nail head to just touch the tie, and you are fine. People have spiked track long before they have glued it. I think gluing only became popular with foam.
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BR60103 Wrote:Practically all the track-bearing surface of my layout (and most of the rest) is Homasote, without a layer below it.
Hey BR, are you saying that you have no continuous support under the Homasote (i.e. no plywood or equivalent). If so, haven't you had any problems with sagging between benchwork supports / risers / etc.?
Matt
Matt Goodman
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Matt:
I don't think I have any sagging problems. I have L-girders with 1x1 (approx) crosspieces every foot.
I have a couple of places where the support was badly put in and I have a hump. I have a joint where I spliced it with a 1x2 which is thicker than my "1x1" and there is a little rise there. The layout is pretty flat as I didn't have a lot of space above it.
I keep my furnace fan on continually so the basement air is dry. When we changed furnaces they gave us a switch and when I had it of for a couple of weeks it seemed damper so I turned it on again.
David
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Perth & Exeter Railway Company
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In model railroading, there are between six and two hundred ways of performing a given task.
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Fluesheet Wrote:One thing that intrigues me about Homasote, and is a weighting factor in whether I use it extensively or not is the fact that it is a wholly recycled material (from newspaper), and to my understanding was the very first recycled material product in the world ! Cork, on the other hand, is a harvested product that is apparently becoming harder to find, making Homasote an apparently more sustainable material.
Matt
The cork is just the bark from the tree, so it is harvested and the tree is not cut down. I think it is also a very fast growing tree, but am not sure about that. The only reason that I can think of for cork being harder to find would be that we are using it for so many more products now that demand may be outstripping supply.
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Hey, I didn't even know this forum was here! I've a few thoughts on Homasote and handlaying. Someone mentioned not using Homasote due to high humidity. My basement has high humidity all summer, even running a dehumidifier. I have no problem with my Homasote, because I paint it with latex paint prior to gluing ties to it. Cutting Homasote is messy, no doubt about it. I initially cut it outside, but that can be restrictive. Downstairs, I took to multiple passes with a utility knife, which works fine. When I no longer had a vehicle with which to bring home sheets, I bought the premade roadbed by California Roadbed Company. Nice stuff, no messy cutting required, no manhandking 4x8 sheets. Ballast shoulders premade, just like cork.
Regarding the posibility of pressing spikes in to hard and bending or kinking the rail, it certainly is possible. It takes just a bit of experience to know how much pressure to use. I've never spiked smaller than code 70 though. I glued the code 55 I used. Not because of fear of kinking the rail, but the spike heads will interfere with wheelsets!
I definitely don't recommend not supporting Homasote! Also, I have never taken the trouble to intentionally rust spikes for better holding power. Truthfully, I've never had a spike rise up. When i wet the ballast to glue it, I'm sure the spikes may eventually rust a bit anyway. I recently decided to pull up a turnback curve which I had superelevated (too much!) and decided to pull up the rail and reuse the same pieces when I'm ready to relay. To remove the spikes, I used an Exacto knife to get under the spike heads and wedge it up a bit, then I pulled with needlenose pliers. This was just a bit more tedious than spiking in the first place!
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