Model Railroad Paint

[P5se Camelback]

For more years than I care to admit to, I had used Floquil paint. I appreciated the extra-fine ground pigment that allowed full coverage when airbrushing without burying such fine details as rivets, window gaskets, molded wood grain, etc.

After returning to the hobby after a 20-year hiatus, I find that Testors, the "paint for plastic model cars/trucks/military models/rock-and-roll idol-worship figure kits" had bought out Floquil when I wasn't paying attention (and could have bought up a sufficient quantity of back-stock of my most-often-used colors and half-a-dozen gallon cans of DioSol,) and has now bastardized what IMHO was the premier paint line in the hobby and turned it into a wimpy handful of nebbish colors (that as far as I can tell are just re-labelled jars of their general line of model paints) that the EPA and OSHA can hold up as a prime example of the results of Government Intervention, and their efforts to protect the people from themselves, no matter what it does to the quality or usability of the final product!

[Yes, I know that was a long sentence, but I had to get that out of my system! ]

I also used Scale coat on the occasions when it was requested, back in the mid-seventies when billed myself as "The Backshop" and painted Brass Locomotives for "Discerning Model Railroaders" in the Philadelphia area. I understand that line of paint has been OSHA'd as well.

So ... what paints are all you guys using now, what are your impressions of the different brands you use and why do you choose the brand you use over competing brands of model railroad paint ... you know what I mean -- the kind with fine-ground pigment that doesn't hide delicate detail?

Thank you, one and all!

I look forward to your responses since I will need paint to complete my 2010 Summer Structure Challenge!

[nachoman]

Floquil changed from being a lacquer thinned paint to one that can be thinned with regular mineral spirits. That happened in the early 1990s. The primary advantage (to me) is that it will no longer attack plastic, and that it stinks less. I usually paint outdoors, so the odor is not a problem to me. Acrylic paints are becoming the standard. Some like them, others don't like them. I used to hate them for airbrushing, but the last time I airbrushed with polly scale acrylic, it came out great. Obviously, the acrylic paints have improved since the 1990s. For brush painting I get decent results with polly scale and testors model master acrylic. For airbrushing, I still prefer floquil. My experience is that the newer formulation of floquil is just as good as, if not better than the old formulation. I can't say anything about the color availability, though. For hobby acrylics, I would say they are at least twice as good as they were when they first started becoming available in the late 1980s. Perhaps my painting techniques have improved, but I can definitely say the quality of paint has not diminished. Again, I can't comment on color availability.

As for the change in formulation - I can tell you as someone who has worked in the groundwater testing industry the reduction in VOCs and heavy metals from paints is a VERY good thing. That is one issue where what your neighbor does can and will affect your health. The government is not just protecting you from yourself, but from your neighbors carelessness, from the dry cleaners down the street, or the semiconductor plant a few miles away. I have pumped water out of wells that smelled worse than oven cleaner, when only a few parts per billion is enough to greatly increase cancer risks or birth defects. You may think you are harming nobody but yourself, but if your neighbor decides to paint their car themselves and dump the solvent on the ground, and you have a private well - there is a likelihood you will be drinking it in a few months.

[tomustang]

I mainly use Acrylics, depending on the surface area I spray paint.

It depends on what, for Conrail blue (new version) Floquil looks best, as the Polly scale is a bit lighter in color.

But mainly Polly scale for specific railroad coloring, I also use Tamaya acrylics, they work good and are cheaper than any of the Testors lines. I sometimes use Delta or Craft Smart and mix, it's the art paintings acrylic paint thats a lot cheaper

I have doubts about Floquil though, I've mistakenly bought bad batches with white flakes in them.

[nachoman]

I mainly use Acrylics, depending on the surface area I spray paint.

I will point out that acrylics spray much easier in cool humid weather than hot dry weather. In arizona right now, the acrylic will dry almost as soon as it leaves the airbrush tip, leaving a very rough surface. I usually use floquil for the the initial painting, and then use heavily thinned acrylic for airbrush weathering. Also, no mater what paint you use, a protective finish such as dullcote adds a lot to the durability. I like the model master flat lacquer, but I have heard others who have had success using acrylic flat finishes or even future floor acrylic wax for a gloss finish.

[jim currie]

I have started to use for lacqure based paint since they ruined Floquil IMHO2 ,automotive paints, high quilaty fine(though not as fine as the old floquil) ground pigments and comes in a wide varity of colors most stores will mix a 4oz can.
jim

[Russ Bellinis]

I have started to use for lacqure based paint since they ruined Floquil IMHO2 ,automotive paints, high quilaty fine(though not as fine as the old floquil) ground pigments and comes in a wide varity of colors most stores will mix a 4oz can.
jim

Enjoy it while you can. Out here it is illegal to use anything but water base to paint cars.

[nachoman]

I have started to use for lacqure based paint since they ruined Floquil IMHO2 ,automotive paints, high quilaty fine(though not as fine as the old floquil) ground pigments and comes in a wide varity of colors most stores will mix a 4oz can.
jim

Enjoy it while you can. Out here it is illegal to use anything but water base to paint cars.

As in automobile cars (1:1 cars?) I didn't even know they had acrylic finishes for cars I know lacquer auto finishes have been on the outs in most places in favor of base coat/clear coat. The good news is the base coat clear coat is supposed to be more durable, but the lacquer is about the only thing an amateur can apply and look reasonably well. I tried a BC/CC in my garage one time using tarps to make a "spray booth" of sorts. the primer went on great - the color coat went on great - but the clear coat My issue was the odor somehow attracted lots of tiny insects! The place stunk for weeks, too. I am a big fan of DIY, but I would never do that again. Perhaps if I had an old beater that I wanted to look better, I MAY do a quickie rattle can or rustoleum paint job!

Seriously, Acrylic paints for automobiles? Sounds like a google search is in order for me!

EDIT - I was using acrylic to mean "water based". My google search said otherwise, that the lacquer paints used on cars were "acrylic lacquer". I guess I am used to artists paints - acrylic (latex) is water based as opposed to oil paint. But now I read they have water based auto paints - thats new to me. That must be pretty new (last 5 years or so?).

[Charlie B]

Nachoman, Ford motor started to use acrylic enamel in 1965, General Motors began using acrylic lacquer in 1958. I got out of the business in 1983 so I haven't kept up, but when we did a job that was metallic acrylic lacquer you had to clear coat it or you got splotches when you buffed it to bring up the gloss. That is why I always preferred the enamel. The paint stayed wet enough to get a gloss without buffing. Even with a 2 quart pressure gun with a 24 inch pattern, it was almost impossible to get a buff free lacquer job.
Remember, lacquer attacks plastic, so put it on dry or the model will craze and sometimes melt a bit.
Charlie

[e-paw]

I manly use Polly scale. Small pigments, good coverage, and cleans up with soap and watter.

[tomustang]

I mainly use Acrylics, depending on the surface area I spray paint.

I will point out that acrylics spray much easier in cool humid weather than hot dry weather. In arizona right now, the acrylic will dry almost as soon as it leaves the airbrush tip, leaving a very rough surface. I usually use floquil for the the initial painting, and then use heavily thinned acrylic for airbrush weathering. Also, no mater what paint you use, a protective finish such as dullcote adds a lot to the durability. I like the model master flat lacquer, but I have heard others who have had success using acrylic flat finishes or even future floor acrylic wax for a gloss finish.

I wonder how much better it would be to use a humidifier when painting in that dry heat