Athearn Light Mike

[Allegheny2-6-6-6]

Whats a good price for an Athearn Light Mikado these days? I was at a train show over the weekend anda crabby old guy was asking $90 and wasn't the least bit interested in talking price.

[Fluesheet]

I can't even remember what I paid for mine years and years (and years) ago, but $90 seems a little high for a locomotive that had out of the box performance issues.

However, the flip side is that the alternative (BLI, or Trix if you can find them) are significantly more. If I needed one, they were hard to find, it was new and I was reasonably handy (to fix the defects), maybe $90 would be OK. Doc Wayne's thread on these is enough to illustrate what can be done with these.

How's that for a non-answer?

Matt Goodman

[jim currie]

wouldn't give more than 60 if its new in the box after checking to see if it runs, as stated they had a lot of problens first no traction but the big one being cracked drive gears and replacments from athearn are no more.
jim

[doctorwayne]

I have four of them in service, two bought new and two picked-up "used" after the performance issues became apparent. None of mine have had any problems with the gears, but NWSL offers replacement parts should they be required. I don't recall the price of the new ones, but I think that the used ones were around $90.00 each. Both were tested at the store before purchasing, so I knew that the gears were okay. This store seems to have a fairly constant supply of used ones, with two currently in their display case. One is listed at $90.00 and the other at $125.00. I'm not sure of the reason for the price disparity, although they may be "on consignment", with the seller dictating the price. Both appear to be "stock" versions, with no added detail.

Wayne

[TinGoat]

Hi Kids,

I have one that is new in the box.

It was bought a few years ago at Den of Trains. Dennis upgraded the couplers to kaydees and did a run in.

It is lettered for Nickle Plate Road.

I never got around to building a layout to run it on because I was dabbling in On30.

Make me an offer!

[nachoman]

How common were the split gears on these things? I have some older athearn bluebox locomotives (late 1980s) that have cracked gears. I have begun to dislike split axle designs. On a diesel, it is less of a problem because should the gear crack it is no trouble to replace it (so long as replacement gears are available). On a steam locomotive, a cracked gear means re-quartering drivers and possible bent siderods. And if the gear plastic is even a tiny bit untrue, the drivers wobble. Call me old-fashioned, but I am much more trusting of steam locomotives that have one insulated drive wheel, one powered drive wheel, and a solid metal axle.

[doctorwayne]

I've never had a problem with the gears in Athearn diesels, and the one Athearn steamer which I repaired for someone else didn't have a split gear either - only the teeth on the idler gear were damaged.

I do have a Bachmann 2-6-6-2 with gear issues...


...although I suspect that they may be related to the use of improper (non-plastic compatible) lube. The rear engine shown is currently at NWSL as their tech guy looks for a solution, as no suitable replacements are currently available. I bought the loco used, and it ran well at first, but when I decided to start some upgrade work on it, it failed while pulling a train on the layout - I was testing its pulling power, which, even when it was running properly, was not that impressive.

Early Proto diesels were notorious for split axle gears, and I have repaired quite a few. The recommended replacements are the Athearn gears, which seem to work well.

Wayne

[jim currie]

How common were the split gears on these things? I have some older athearn bluebox locomotives (late 1980s) that have cracked gears. I have begun to dislike split axle designs. On a diesel, it is less of a problem because should the gear crack it is no trouble to replace it (so long as replacement gears are available). On a steam locomotive, a cracked gear means re-quartering drivers and possible bent siderods. And if the gear plastic is even a tiny bit untrue, the drivers wobble. Call me old-fashioned, but I am much more trusting of steam locomotives that have one insulated drive wheel, one powered drive wheel, and a solid metal axle.

Kevin my experience with the mikes is the opposite of Doc's bought 5 of them new i have one left the rest hit the wall because of cracked drive gear one of them right out of the box(after three years) , but Athearn had stoped making them by then and no replacment parts were advable or are now from athearn, NWSL diden't make replacments the last time i checked with them(several years ago) . also have had several older bb athearn ones crack the drive gear as well as a bunch of P2K ones and several bachman ones, only drives i havent had falures on is hobby town ones.
jim

[Drew]

I'd sure like to have one for my K&T Southern!

[Allegheny2-6-6-6]

Heck I'm just gonna get one and send it to Dr. Wayne.........lol

[doctorwayne]

Heck I'm just gonna get one and send it to Dr. Wayne.........lol

Thanks, but I've already got lots of locomotive projects ahead of me.

Three of these to do:


...two of these:


...this one:


...another one of these:


...and three others for which I don't have photos, plus two to be scratchbuilt, one a steamer and the other a diesel.

By the time they're all done, I should be about 86 and ready to myself.

Wayne

[P5se Camelback]

Good Doctor ...

... Your sense of humor is greatly appreciated ...

... I actually laughed out loud, sitting here all by myself!

Yes, and I agree, too!

[Fluesheet]

it failed while pulling a train on the layout - I was testing its pulling power, which, even when it was running properly, was not that impressive.
Wayne

Wayne, had you already performed your typical weight infusion before trying the test?

Matt