Lettering Help....
#1
I'm currently on a lettering/numbering binge...(got to do it while I'm hot...), but need to remove some lettering on one of the locos. I try to purchase all my locos painted/unlettered, but this one was a gift, so it came with lettering. So what is the proper way to do this without ruining the finish on the loco..??

Any suggestions would be much appreciated..... Goldth
Gus (LC&P).
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#2
I have heard that solvaset (decal setting solution) will work. I model about 98% steam that is easy cover it with black. Also you can get the appropriate color. Airbrush over it breaking the paint at lines in the shell and fade it in / out where you can't. I have tried that once and it was a success. Now second try might be a failure, going to have to wait for that one.
Les
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#3
I've always used brake fluid if the lettering is decals.
Mike

Sent from my pocket calculator using two tin cans and a string
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#4
I use Solvaset and a artist's eraser. The finish is left in pristine shape and there is no need to touch up or get something you can't buy in a hobby shop.

Observe!

1.) Soak for a few minutes

[Image: p7010552.jpg]

Then Rub. If you use a finely abrasive eraser, you won't even notice a change in the finish of the underlying paint. It took less than 5 minutes to remove the PC logo, and another 5 min on the other side.

[Image: p7010553.jpg]

You tell me id you can see any remains of the PC logo in the light, or if the paint looks funny! If you can see it, your eyes are better than mine!

[Image: p7020578.jpg]
Modeling New Jersey Under the Wire 1978-1979.  
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#5
Thanks for the tips, guys.... Thumbsup

I'm off to find me some Solvaset...

GEC...That GG-1 looks great..!! Not a trace of the removal....
Gus (LC&P).
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#6
Green_Elite_Cab Wrote:I use Solvaset and a artist's eraser. The finish is left in pristine shape and there is no need to touch up or get something you can't buy in a hobby shop.

Observe!

1.) Soak for a few minutes

[Image: p7010552.jpg]

Then Rub. If you use a finely abrasive eraser, you won't even notice a change in the finish of the underlying paint. It took less than 5 minutes to remove the PC logo, and another 5 min on the other side.

[Image: p7010553.jpg]

You tell me id you can see any remains of the PC logo in the light, or if the paint looks funny! If you can see it, your eyes are better than mine!

[Image: p7020578.jpg]

Awwwww, what did you go and do that for!? Misngth Seriously, nice visual demonstration! Thumbsup
Ralph
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#7
Ralph Wrote:Awwwww, what did you go and do that for!? Misngth Seriously, nice visual demonstration! Thumbsup
Ralph

Progress, my friend! It probably won't be the last time I patch over a Penn Central logo :-P

(though the real answer is that PC GG1s are cheap and require minimal work to convert to Conrail. Factory painted BLI Conrail GG1s are hard to come by for a reasonable price. also, #4840 was the first production GG1 to arrive on the Pennsy).

as for the visuals, seeing is believing! Thanks guys!
Modeling New Jersey Under the Wire 1978-1979.  
[Image: logosmall.png]
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