A Challenge: Designing A new modular layout section
#31
A paperclip switch is new to me, but found this one: (scroll down a few posts) <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/4039#comment-32206">http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node ... ment-32206</a><!-- m -->

Is that what you are referring too?

Seems like a simple but effective way of doing so. At first I didn't understand how the spring worked, but the trick is to have the spring oriented such that most tension is applied when the turnout is 'centered', in other words, not touching either stock rail. This way it needs to pass a point of 'resistance' at half travel (spring at 'max tension' at that point) , and get pulled to either side. This is why the builder refers to spiking the turnout throw bar in center position while installing the spring to avoid it moving. Simple indeed, might be worth a try.

Any other methods anyone?

Koos
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#32
That is essentially what I mend but I remember a much smaller and simpler construction with a paper clip as a spring just like Peco switches are constructed.
Reinhard
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#33
I will have to take another good look at one of my PECO turnouts, and see how that spring is working again, can't quite remember at the moment.

Koos
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#34
Here we go:

A YouTube clip: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rfZpe1LNjk">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rfZpe1LNjk</a><!-- m -->
and a text: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://rcandamoonpie.blogspot.de/2010/01/over-center-springs-for-atlas-code-55.html">http://rcandamoonpie.blogspot.de/2010/0 ... de-55.html</a><!-- m -->

The examples are N scale but that does not matter

I have to correct myself. It is not a paperclip but a steel or piano wire to be used as a spring. But it is the most simple switch machine ever seen.
Reinhard
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#35
Thanks Reinhard , simple indeed , and I understand how it works. :-)
I'll think about it for a bit, before I decide what to do.

Thanks again!
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#36
I think it is important to solder tiny jumpers from the point rails to the closure rails that are hard wired to the stock rails.
the hinges between the point and the closure rails are not really reliable and the electric connection between the point and the stock rails might be below average with those little spring only. It is even more important because the frog will be dead by design with that little spring. A dead point rail together with a dead frog will be a severe problem.

ps. Terms used from this drawing http://www.wiringfordcc.com/sw_typ1.gif
Reinhard
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#37
Yeah that's the only bit that is stopping me from jumping on the paperclip or other cheap method at the moment. I do want reliable operations, so the frogs will get power routing. I will investigate the electrical side of the Atlas code 83 supertrack turnouts a little better.
I've come at a stand still for a moment, as I realised I wanted some form of roadbed, not a very thick one, but a little bit of height to it, so I need to get myself some cork, carpet underlay tiles, or double sided tape to do that. Until I have something suitable, I will not permanently fix the track to the module board.

Koos
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#38
    Hi all, I've struggled a bit recently to make some progress. I was looking to get material to make my roadbed with, and I intended to use carpet / underfloor tiles.
It's currently difficult enough at most DIY stores to get the right type of underfloor here in the UK. Most sell foam rolls, or have tiles that have a much coarser and more brittle fiber at present, and usually in packs which they often do not want to open. However I found some loose ones and could continue with the module boards.
Why underfloor tiles? While any other roadbed (cork or foam types) would be good for the tracks, I want to use the same material as the base for the roads and line side structures, as to bring them up to the same level, on a level surface. These tiles are relatively easy to cut, if you take your time, and use the right tools.
I've found that knives work, but they need to be clean and sharp, otherwise they'll start to rip into the material. A better option is a razor saw, which cuts cleaner lines. It creates a bit of dust though so have a vacuum cleaner at hand to clean everything up after you're done.
After the roadbed is glued down (using no more nails or similar) it's easy to use a few rail spikes to secure the track , in addition to some white glue mixed with alcohol (70 or 90% is both fine). This mix will ensure that if you make it wet again, it will turn back in to a gum like consistency and you can remove the track for future use. Don't worry when ballasting, the glue will set again after it dries.
Next will be to use Woodland scenics hydrocal, or another landscape moulding material, to smooth the edges and surfaces of the road, the sides of the trackbed and other landscape contours.
Then I will paint the surface of the entire board an earth colour, as the base of all scenery.
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#39
Koos:
I'm don't know what your underfloor stuff is, but I found a dustless way to cut Homasote. A jigsaw/sabre saw (whatever it;s called) with a toothless blade. I managed to find a small supply this summer. The main cautions are: Don't push it too hard or it will heat up and distemper. Don't put any wood under the material and try to cut it.
David
Moderato ma non troppo
Perth & Exeter Railway Company
Esquesing & Chinguacousy Radial Railway
In model railroading, there are between six and two hundred ways of performing a given task.
Most modellers can get two of them to work.
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#40
Hi there,

I have no idea what the 'Homasote' equivalent is in europe, or the UK. I read about it in all US layout construction books, or online, but Homasote is a brand, although the product is so wide spread that everyone refers to it by it's brand/product name, instead of saying what it is. Therefore I struggle to find a similar product on this side of the pond.
Curious if anyone, if anyone one knows this?

thanks, Koos
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#41
Koos - I think in UK we'd call it "softboard", or insulation board It used to be used for interior walling in military nissen huts - not sure where it can be obtained now but a possible equivalent may be Sundela - just don't let it get wet !!!
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Homasote">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Homasote</a><!-- m -->
EDIT just found this <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.totemtimber.co.uk/store/building-materials/sheet-materials/softboard.aspx">http://www.totemtimber.co.uk/store/buil ... board.aspx</a><!-- m -->
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#42
I would say that Homasote isn't a necessary thing. It's a little like the advice fathers used to pass on to sons about the REAL way to drive a stick shift -- maybe it'll work, maybe not, but some folks think it's the REAL way to do it! The disadvantages include that it's hard to find, it's very messy to cut, and as Jack says, it swells and distorts if you get it wet (e.g., using water to apply ballast glue). The biggest reason it was advocated in the past was that it held spikes well with hand-laid track, although hand laying track is less and less common, with flex track readily available in several code sizes and gauges.

Celotex is an alternate product that based on a google search is available in the UK. They are both sold in 4x8 foot sheets 1/2 inch thick. The difference is that Homasote is compressed recycled newsprint, while Celotex is compressed sawdust. They are both used in construction for sound and temperature insulation. Celotex doesn't have the problem of swelling if wet, though it's still messy to cut. The advantage for modeling is that although Celotex doesn't hold spikes as well, it does do a good job holding track nails, which are hard to apply on bare plywood.

The advantage of either Celotex or Homasote is also that they're quieter, an advantage particularly with sound-equipped locos. However, to get things really quiet, you need to back both of them up with substantail plywood subroadbed as well.
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#43
shortliner Wrote:Koos - I think in UK we'd call it "softboard", or insulation board It used to be used for interior walling in military nissen huts - not sure where it can be obtained now but a possible equivalent may be Sundela - just don't let it get wet !!!
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Homasote">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Homasote</a><!-- m -->
EDIT just found this <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.totemtimber.co.uk/store/building-materials/sheet-materials/softboard.aspx">http://www.totemtimber.co.uk/store/buil ... board.aspx</a><!-- m -->

Thanks for that , and Totum Timber is in Plymouth, roughly 35 miles from where I live. 've got to have a look there sometime

Koos
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#44
Reposted here from the news about Steinjr thread, who sadly and unexpectedly passed away a few days ago....
'
I'm lost for words, but will have to say a big THANK YOU STEIN, for the help you provided me in designing my new trackplan for my Freemo Module boards . I had named one industry in honor of his geographical location (Sorumsand, the industry is called Sorum's sand ), and the modules are named after my father who passed away to cancer in August. (Wolter Springs)

These modules now deserve even more respect and care during their build than I was going to, as now two people I've known in various ways are being remembered through the modeling of these.

Thanks Stein, may you rest in peace, and my sincere condoleances to your family , friends, and everyone here on Big Blue.

Koos
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#45
A fine modeler, mentor and comrade unexpectedly lost. I will miss Stein's bright and helpful presence, his humor, skill with hands and words, and the joy in life he brought with him on his visits here and elsewhere in the modeling community. My sincerest sympathy to his wonderful and beloved family and friends on our mutual loss. Thank you, Stein, for all you've done...Rest peacefully, friend - you will be sorely missed. Bob C.
James Thurber - "It is better to know some of the questions than all of the answers."
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