Rust for rust
#1
I did use a "rust set" made of a bottle of iron dust with a binding agent and a bottle with an activator (acid). It is real rust and looks like real rust but it is not a first class 1:87 scale rust. High skilled rust weathering with paint has better results.
[Image: file-46.jpg]
Reinhard
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#2
If it were me, I'd try going over the sides again with a wash of black, but for CTRN cars, those are pretty contemporary, and you'd want to add conspicuity stripes and graffiti. Here are a couple of C&NW cars as examples -- they're black, anyhow.    
   
That would both tone down the too-defnite rust and distract attention from it, too. The insides are fine.
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#3
Looks good to me, very real.
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#4
Don't forget your tetanus shot
Tom

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#5
the texture looks a little coarse, but otherwise looks good. At one time, I was going to try similar. I took a bunch of used staples, dissolved them in hydrochloric acid, then re-precipitated the metal by adding baking soda. I was hoping I would wind up with a fine powder of rusty iron - and I did - but I wound up spilling the container before I could use it for weathering. In hindsight, it would be easier to just take fine sandpaper and sand on some rusty steel and collect the fine powder.
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#6
I still agree with the OP, whose assessment of his own work seems correct to me. Rust that comes from rusty staples or paper clips is not the same thing as rust that's been out in the weather for years and years -- for that, you do in fact have to match colors with things like chalk or paint. Also, rust works its way out from under paint, it doesn't sit on top of paint like it's been brushed out of a bottle.
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#7
Rust is a strange stuff. It soaks the black wash, looks darker and wet and becomes much lighter when it dries again. I did first a good deal of dark brown on the none rust areas to "destroy" the fine black and did than 3 layers of heavy black wash over all. May be even more are required when everything is dry in some hours.

Now, the brown and black wash did help but this method is definitely not recommended. As John points out is this kind of rust sitting on top over everything and does not grow under the paint.

[Image: file-47.jpg]

Some hours later when the wash had dried up. The photo is to red. the real thing is more yellow/brown. That's it. The cars will go into revenue service immediately.
[Image: file-48.jpg]
Reinhard
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#8
The fading of the lettering from the extra wash is a very good effect.
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#9
I like it ... Big Grin That may be worth a try.
 My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew  
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#10
"Also, rust works its way out from under paint, it doesn't sit on top of paint like it's been brushed out of a bottle."

Very true ! One way some get that effect is to paint the car with a brown primer then put rubber cement where you want the rust to come thru and then paint the car whatever color you want. After the paint is dry rub on the bumps where the rubber cement is until the cement turns loose and comes off taking the paint with it and exposing the primer underneath. Blend with some chalks and you are done.
Mike

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#11
Tyson Rayles Wrote:"Also, rust works its way out from under paint, it doesn't sit on top of paint like it's been brushed out of a bottle."

Very true ! One way some get that effect is to paint the car with a brown primer then put rubber cement where you want the rust to come thru and then paint the car whatever color you want. After the paint is dry rub on the bumps where the rubber cement is until the cement turns loose and comes off taking the paint with it and exposing the primer underneath. Blend with some chalks and you are done.

Interesting trick. Sounds like the one when you spray water before applying the final paint coat (never tried it).

BTW, using rust powder gives results nearer to fresh rust than old rust that turns brown, almost black. I'm sure it could have it's application were fresh rust is needed. Maybe to weather hopper and gondola interiors.

Matt
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#12
At the next morning with natural light.
It is for me an acceptable result but not a recommended method for heavy weathering of rolling stock. You should not use it at all if you intent light weathering or some rust spots only.

[Image: file-49.jpg]
Reinhard
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#13
That looks very good now. But you still need conspicuity stripes, and you need to paint the wheel faces brown, too! I still think paint and chalk are best for hopper and gon interiors:
   
The ones you see here are done by airbrushing Floquil Rail Brown into the interiors and then dusting with rust-colored chalk.
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#14
jwb Wrote:...I still think paint and chalk are best for hopper and gon interiors...The ones you see here are done by airbrushing Floquil Rail Brown into the interiors and then dusting with rust-colored chalk.
I fully agree.That "standard" method is far superior to the rust kit I used.
I thought it might be interesting to demonstrate not suitable methods too. There is no reason someone else repeats my negative experience after reading this discussion.
Reinhard
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