CNR MLW RS-18 (Atlas)

[sailormatlac]

Don't know why I didn't recognise the terminology, but I believe both the RS-10 (244 diesel engine) and the RS-18 (251 engine) are turbocharged, and the intercooler would be to cool the pressurised intake air - cooled air, greater amount of oxygen for combustion.

Wayne

Ah! Now everything makes sense! That's what I like about kitbashing, you end up learning about the internals of the locomotive...

Matt

[sailormatlac]

More victims came home today.



I feel ashamed of stripping CV and DW&P scheme, but at least, I'll keep intact the frame and won't have to repaint it! The stripped unit is an ex-BN.

My Atlas-Kato MEC unit will be used as a prototype before working on the Atlas Classic. If it's not to mess up, maybe I'll buy a few more brass part to finish it as a CN unit.

I'll definitely rebuild the front handrail. Painted in white, they really look over-oversized!

The project to be continued in February when the GP9s will be done once for all.

The 2 Walthers grain bins in the background (+ one already on the layout) are parts of a new mineral terminal at Wolfe's Cove. I'll used another bin to give them more height just like the prototype I'm following.

Matt

[jwb]

As a CV fan who saw the RS-11s then, I'm a little sad that you'll strip the CV unit, although they were mostly still DW&P green on the CV in the 1960s, and photos seem to show they got the wet noodle around the same time they went back to Minnesota -- they ran there with CV lettering. Someone here may be able to clarify this more, since they eventually came back to CV and got the green and yellow noodle.

[sailormatlac]

jwb, I agree, it's a little bit sad to sacrifice them, but that's just the way it is. I would feel real bad to strip a CV in its attractive green & yellow scheme. But don't worry, my DW&P RS-11 in gold & green will be kept as is.

I also discovered when stripping the BN unit that SuperClean only attack white decals on Atlas Classic units. I'm seriously thinking about removing the lettering and keep the paint on the shell. It wouldn't only need a few touch up and nose repainting. I'll see, maybe it's more work than it's worth.

I remember reading about the DW&P units, they effectively travelled a lot... I've seen picture of CV RS11 pulling trains in Southern Quebec (in black-red wet noodle).

http://www.trainweb.org/oldtimetrains/ph.../RS-11.htm

CN Lines has an interesting article on CN RS units.

http://cnlines.ca/CNcyclopedia/loco/mlw/mlw_rs.php#RS11

Matt

[sailormatlac]

I did some prep work on the RS11 shell yesterday, mainly filling headlights and horns holes with styrene rod and sanding down grabirons nuts. After a few try, I found out it would be easier to sand down the cast-on intercooler flush with the carbody and glue a P1K recast on it. Next step is filling the hood notches with styrene and sanding everything down to a nice MLW curved profile.

I’m still trying to figure out if cutting away the RS11 radiator (the cast is clumsy) and replacing it with a RS32 one is a good move. Both have similar dimensions but not exactly the same.

I also made a sketch of different intervention according to prototypes I’ll be replicating. I’ve decided to use the Kato RS11 shell to get a third CN unit. After comparing it to an Atlas Classic, I found out the wheelbase length difference was minimal from an operating standpoint. Anyway, many discrepancies exist between a RS11 Atlas shell and a real RS18. At this point, I won’t go crazy for half a millimeter here and there. It would be stupid to shelf a Kato drive for such a trivial matter.
I’m also asking myself if I’m psychologically challenged enough to try replicating about 80 Alco door handles with brass wire… Maybe not, maybe!



Matt

[sailormatlac]

The project is still going on strong... Since it is quite a tedious process, I broke down the work on several small steps. That way, I don't get myself discouraged and achieve small goals each day!

I mainly cut parts from RS32 shells including radiators and fans. Next step was to cut the RS11 shells to place the new parts. So far, so good. Fans are all done on CN units. I also figured out how I'll get rid of the bulky radiator. When CN units will be done, I'll move on the CP units.

I feel like this project is gonna be a long one!

Matt

[sailormatlac]

Better with some pictures.





I completed the part fitting this afternoon. I'm rather satisfied. Next step is to fill up the end corner notches then I'll be ready to glue together the parts. Once that done, the remaining job will be about gluing brass casting which should be "straightforward".

I'm not that much excited to make the handrail...

Matt

[doctorwayne]

....I'm not that much excited to make the handrail...

Matt, if you have a suitable handrail, use it to make a pattern from sheet styrene or heavy cardstock, then fasten the pattern to a solid surface. This will allow you to bend soft brass wire directly to the pattern, in most cases making the bends using the pattern as a forming tool.
If you have nothing but photos and your models to assist you, use soft brass wire make one very accurate handrail for each type required, then make the patterns from those.
Once you have good patterns, you can also form the handrails from music wire - it's too difficult to bend using a pattern as the actual forming tool, but an accurate pattern will show where to place your pliers to make such bends. This will give you very durable handrails, dependent, of course, on the material used for the stanchions.

Wayne

[sailormatlac]

....I'm not that much excited to make the handrail...

Matt, if you have a suitable handrail, use it to make a pattern from sheet styrene or heavy cardstock, then fasten the pattern to a solid surface. This will allow you to bend soft brass wire directly to the pattern, in most cases making the bends using the pattern as a forming tool.
If you have nothing but photos and your models to assist you, use soft brass wire make one very accurate handrail for each type required, then make the patterns from those.
Once you have good patterns, you can also form the handrails from music wire - it's too difficult to bend using a pattern as the actual forming tool, but an accurate pattern will show where to place your pliers to make such bends. This will give you very durable handrails, dependent, of course, on the material used for the stanchions.

Wayne

Great advice! So simple, yet... Will make my life much easier and results consistent. Shouldn't be hard to figure out the handrail shape since it's very close to the original stock RS11. I'll use the Atlas original one and modify the shape according to the prototype where needed.

I was thinking using music wire and Atlas stanchions. But making a mock up out of brass before mass production should be advisable.

Thanks again!

Matt

[doctorwayne]

The music wire handrail in the Atlas stanchions will give you handrail assemblies almost as flexible as all-Delrin ones, but much more durable.

Wayne

[modelmaker51]

Nice job! You want to try <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.miniaturesbyeric.com/index.htm">http://www.miniaturesbyeric.com/index.htm</a><!-- m --> for MLW parts. I would use phosphorbronze wire for the handrails rather than brass, it is stiffer and yet more springy, available from Tichy in the same sizes as brass wire.

[sailormatlac]

Nice job! You want to try <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.miniaturesbyeric.com/index.htm">http://www.miniaturesbyeric.com/index.htm</a><!-- m --> for MLW parts. I would use phosphorbronze wire for the handrails rather than brass, it is stiffer and yet more springy, available from Tichy in the same sizes as brass wire.

Thanks for your reply.

I got some parts from Miniature by Erics. Many are useful, unfortunately, in recent years, quality is uneven from part to part. I'm actually resuming the project since I finally got all the parts needed. I'll complete the GP9 set before thought.

Matt

[Canadian Atlantic Railway]

I like your approach to building those RS18's Matt. Have you made any progress on the units lately?

[sailormatlac]

I like your approach to building those RS18's Matt. Have you made any progress on the units lately?

Hi! Good thing you ask! I try to keep it as simple and straigforward as I can. I have a bad habit of starting projects at a furious pace then halt them for months or years before completing them. It's why I try to do things from a pragmatic way to besure I'll complete them (cough, cough!!!). They won't be 100% prototype because I'm keeping Atlas handrails, but that should do the job.

I recently got them back equipped with sound decoder. Some details need to be added and they will be ready for painting. I'm extremely busy with work, home improvement and many other things, but I expect to have them done and weathered by Christmas. We actually need them badly on the layout.

This picture is old news, but show you what they look like.



Matt

[sailormatlac]

I can't believe it'S been almost a year since I worked on those models. Jérôme tested the drives recently and programmed the decoder. We now have 2 drives equipped with sound and one to be equipped. I also found out Chris Mear made 3D print parts for RS18. I wish I had known about it before, but at least I'll finally get my hand on intercooler grills (the last part missing to complete the project).

The locomotives will be painted in CN wet noodle scheme as per prototype pictures of Murray Bay Subdivision.

Once I get the parts, I'll start working on these models again. Would be nice to have them running for X'mas.

Matt