Thinking of getting power tools
#1
Up to now I've been using pretty simple tools for modeling ...The Chopper , and the usual assortment of small saws and blades , etc . Maybe it's time to look at one or two power tools ( like Micro Mark ) and I was wondering what you would recommend since I just starting . What tools have impressed you the most ?

I model in mostly wood and styrene , with the odd resin casting , and sheet brass on occasion .

Suggestions ?

Thanks , T
To err is human, to blame it on somebody else shows management potential.
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#2
A turning machine with an option to do some simple milling is my personal dream. But it is expensive and you have to have a workshop.
Reinhard
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#3
A rotary tool such as a dremel would probably be first on my list, followed by some kind of small bench top drill press (neither of which I have). If you use a lot of sheet plastic or wood for scratchbuilding, one of those small hobby table saws would be very useful.
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#4
I should have mentioned I have a Dremel ...I hate the thing , should have got the variable speed attachment I guess because my model is waaay too fast for handling easily . I know others like the Dremel but I never have ......it's just me I guess Nope Misngth
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#5
TJ. I have a 15 inch scroll saw I bought for crafting and I have found it to be very useful for cutting small parts for modeling. It is not a precision tool, but they are not expensive. I am amazed how often I run into the shop to use it. I have even made some strip wood by making a little fence for it, and It cuts plexiglas and styrene if you put masking tape on the plastic and cut through it. The tape keeps the cut clean for some odd reason. I cut plaster castings too. It is not a modeling tool , but it is very useful for some things modeling.
Charlie
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#6
Good idea , Charlie ....up here we have Canadian Tire stores which sell everything ( not just tires ) and they list their house brand ( Mastercraft ) 16" scroll saw at $129 ....think I'll have a look tomorrow .

If you remember the Ebbets Field Ball Park I worked on , we used a miniature table saw and a band saw to do all the cutting . They were old tools but seemed to do the job ......would a 16 " scroll saw be more versatile for modeling than a small table saw ( like the Micro Mark for instance ) ?

T
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#7
TeeJay, I use my scroll saw as a substitute for better, more precise tools. There is such a variety of blades available at a reasonable price that I find I can do a lot. I use a bigger blade for rip cuts because the grain will throw the cut away from the fence. To be honest, if I had the money, I would have them all, but at my age I have all time and I don't punch a clock. I can't say it would be more versital, but you seem to know your way around tools so I think you would enjoy having one.
Don't forget to look on Craigslist too. I also have a 1/2 in drill press that I use at times, but I wish at times I had a very slow rpm press when drilling holes for grabs. I just bought a slow cordless drill that I am going to play with. I think I can make a press to hold it, and I can chuck a pin vise in it to hold the tiny bits.
I have never been cut on the scroll saw and I have worked really close to the blade. I am not saying it won't cut you, but I feel safer with small things than I do with my band saw or the 12 inch table saw. I would also like to have a little 1 in belt sander so I could waste some more styrene. Goldth
Charlie
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#8
T:
I have a variable speed Dremel (one of the first gifts from my wife). There used to be a speed control -- foot operated?-- that could be added to the fixed speed units.
I bought a book (years ago) which gave the speeds for each setting on the tool.

Can we assume that you have all the common big power tools?
David
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#9
My " big power tools" consist of a 10" mitre saw , coupla jig saws ,variable speed drills , but all for heavier work than what I need for scratch building and other modeling . I guess I'm trying to avoid the pitfalls of buying a small power tool that disappointed you guys , or wasn't worth the money . I need a few small , accurate power tools that are more specific to modeling . My mitre saw has been invaluable for benchwork and all . Again , I haven't been impressed by the hand held Dremel for accuracy although it is 15 years old and there probably is something better these days from Dremel . The small drill press would be handy these days ........I hand drilled 1500 holes for the rivets in my Hulett Ore unloader that I scratch built several years ago ..my hand just about fell off Icon_lol

T
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#10
teejay Wrote:I hand drilled 1500 holes for the rivets in my Hulett Ore unloader that I scratch built several years ago ..my hand just about fell off Icon_lol

T
Would you want to tell us how many bits you broke, or is that forever a secret. Icon_lol

I break at least 2 every time I put grabs on a car, that is why that project is being saved for last.
Charlie
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#11
I bought about 2000 Tichy rivets ....a few hundred went flying , somewhere , never to be seen again Eek ......I used .074 bits and went through about a dozen . I installed about 100 / day so it took a couple of weeks . Since I have a second Hulett , partially built , I'll use a small drill press when I get to the rivet stage . I'm not in any rush . Goldth

T
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#12
I have a single-speed Dremel (originally a chainsaw sharpening tool) which I use almost exclusively with a cut-off disc, probably my most-used power tool and accessory. I also have a similar tool, slightly larger and with variable speed and a flexible shaft which I use occasionally for drilling when working with metal. It won't, however, hold bits smaller than #72. For those, I put the bit in a pin vise, then chuck that in my 3/8" drill. Again, this is only when working with metal, and usually only with the larger drill sizes. If the metal is brass and/or is fairly thin (.060" or less) I generally prefer to use a pin vise.
Most of what I do is probably better suited to hand tools.

Wayne
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#13
The variable speed Dremel with flex shaft is my choice. The flex shaft makes the tool much easier to use. I also use my 10" table saw and 7" compound miter saw way more than a 1/87th scale modeler should.

Like docWayne mentioned, I often chuck a pin vise into a battery powered drill when there are lots of small holes to be drilled.
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#14
I just use the mitre saw for bench work and heavier use ....obviously it isn't made for modeling . I just can't see me cutting anything straight with the Dremel ...that's where the little table saw was ideal for working on the ball park cutting hardboard and thin plywood modeling materials .

I just read a number of reports by scroll saw users and there seems to be a lot of complaints about blades breaking easily ....something about " pinned and unpinned blades " ....is there a particular brand you would recommend Charlie ? I realize you get what you pay for .

T
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#15
teejay Wrote:I just use the mitre saw for bench work and heavier use ....obviously it isn't made for modeling . I just can't see me cutting anything straight with the Dremel ...that's where the little table saw was ideal for working on the ball park cutting hardboard and thin plywood modeling materials .

I just read a number of reports by scroll saw users and there seems to be a lot of complaints about blades breaking easily ....something about " pinned and unpinned blades " ....is there a particular brand you would recommend Charlie ? I realize you get what you pay for .

T
Teejay. I break blades, but it isn't the blades fault. If you try to force them, they break. I have the saw that will use either type blade. The adapters for the unpinned blades are a little hard to install but they are OK. Making outside cuts doesn't matter, but at times you need an inside cut ant that is where the pinned blades are faster, you can just loosen it slide it through the hole and then reinstall the blade. As for brand, I just grab what I can find. I have actually been able to wear some blades to the point I added a piece of 1/4 in plywood to the saw table to get to the unused portion of the blade. Now that is Cheap. I have seen the blades for 5 for a dollar, so that isn' t a big expense. I find all the blades about the same as far as breakage. I have had my saw for almost 30 years and probably have used 30 blades, but keep in mind it is one of those things that gets used a lot a little bit of the time. My wife uses it a lot too.

Charlie
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