Wyoming valley super Mike kitbash
#16
e-paw Wrote:Thank you all for the kind words.. Big Grin
With the trucks installed I soldered in a temp bulb in and decided to test the tenders road worthiness by switching it around Easton. The bulb will also let me see how well the pickups work. All those turnouts are #4's, I figure if it can make it through them with 3 axle trucks, it should track well anywhere. Click the link to check out the movie I made of the test.

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/jm4szq3wxrwva7d/2014-06-11%2018.31.50.mov">https://www.dropbox.com/s/jm4szq3wxrwva ... .31.50.mov</a><!-- m -->

The tender trucks should handle the #4's OK...But what about the loco..??
Gus (LC&P).
Reply
#17
We will find out about the loco soon enough, Steamtrains.

A few more progress shots..
I started on the side sills.    

And added some under body details    

The end beam also got some attention.    

   
 My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew  
Reply
#18
WoW..!! If the tender looks like that...I can't wait to see the loco...!!
Gus (LC&P).
Reply
#19
Great progress in detailing!
Cheers, Bernd

Please visit also my website www.us-modelsof1900.de.
You can read some more about my model projects and interests in my chronicle of facebook.
Reply
#20
I did a little more to the tender today. Big Grin Big Grin

I started with building a ladder for the rear of the cistern.    

and using the same general method I also soldered up the corner steps.    

They were installed like so... On this side I also added the sight glass for the tender behind the normal grab iron. This was a feature that was normally reserved for tenders with water scoops, but they appear on this class of tender that had none.    

   

On the engineer's side, derails were hung on all the tenders. Although mounts were provided for two, most prototype pictures only show one derail hanging on the hooks.     I still have to add the rivets to the derail hooks and the runaway chains to the trucks, but for the most part this tender is almost finished. I won't be installing the draw bar until I have enough of the boiler and cab finished in order to get the spacing to look right.
 My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew  
Reply
#21
Lookin' good, Steve. Thumbsup Thumbsup

Wayne
Reply
#22
Very 8-) . Cheers
I must admit not looking forward to making ladders.
Cheers, the Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Reply
#23
Now with the tender almost finished I can turn my attention towards the drive. As evident from this pic the tender is slightly longer than the business end of this locomotive.    

And this drive is a mess Nope Nope Nope Nope . It's covered in a thick coat of paint, grease, and is geared way too high. It's a drag freight engine not a passenger speeder. The trailing truck is also incorrect and will have to go.    

So the drive was taken apart and cleaned by soaking it in real strong rubbing alcohol..    

   

While the drive took a bath I added the missing rivets to the rerailer hooks on the tender. They are a plastic inserts like the ones that Tichy makes , the may even be them, I found them in my parts box Big Grin    
 My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew  
Reply
#24
e-paw wrote:
" I added the missing rivets to the rerailer hooks on the tender. They are a plastic inserts like the ones that Tichy makes"

Nicely done !!! Thumbsup Thumbsup And, the "rivet decals" look great !!!

Icon_twisted Icon_twisted and I wasn't even "counting rivets" Confusedhock: :o 357 357

Icon_twisted You've put on too many, to count Wink Wink Big Grin Big Grin Big Grin
We always learn far more from our own mistakes, than we will ever learn from another's advice.
The greatest place to live life, is on the sharp leading edge of a learning curve.
Lead me not into temptation.....I can find it myself!
Reply
#25
And the model progresses...

To fix the problem of the overly fast drive I pulled out a NWSL gear tower that I was intended for my 4-8-0 camelback and installed it here. The first problem that I came across was that the gear was meant for a thicker axel. I soldered a hallow brass tube to take up some of the space,     then chucked it into my " lathe " and opened the center hole to the proper size with a file..    

With the gear reinstalled I was able to begin putting the drive back together.    

On to the next hiccup,,,, The next part that needed attention was the eccentric on the valve gear. On this model the eccentric crank attaches to a smooth pin on the driver by a small set screw. The one in this picture is fine.....     The one on the other side is another story.     The set screw has been broken off flush with the crank and needs repair.
 My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew  
Reply
#26
On the opposite side of the crank I drilled and tapped a hole for a 00-90 screw.    

Once I have it installed and tested, I'll file down the screw head to make it less noticeable.
   
 My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew  
Reply
#27
Beautiful work on the tender, and good look with the mechanism. I particularly enjoyed your solution for modifying the gear.
Michael
My primary goal is a large Oahu Railway layout in On3
My secondary interests are modeling the Denver, South Park, & Pacific in On3 and NKP in HO
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://thesouthparkline.blogspot.com/">http://thesouthparkline.blogspot.com/</a><!-- m -->
Reply
#28
I've been rather buzzy the last few weeks and haven't had much time to put into the mike until today.

The tender build is now complete and ready for paint.    

and I have managed to get the drive back together. Somewhere along the line the valve gear had developed a bind in the yokes on both sides, it was difficult to find but a few swipes of a file took care of it. The motor was also added, it's a bit large, but the extra wide firebox of the engine will fit right over it. It came out of an old printer and has a ton of torque, with a very low speed. Combined with the gear reduction of the gear tower this model maxes out at about a scale 30 miles per hour.

   

   

This shot of the underside shows that I have also added all wheel pick up to all the drivers.    
 My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew  
Reply
#29
I've hit a big setback.... :evil: The insulated side of the geared driver has come out of quarter, or a better way to describe it,,,, Has completely come off the axle and now spins freely. This caused the plastic gear in the gear tower to strip, and while removing the driver to see what had happened, I broke the head of the screw that holds the eccentric crank the drivers pin. :x :evil: :o :!: :cry: Icon_twisted That's the same one that I drilled and taped earlier. So I am back to square one with the drive,,, minus the pick ups. I have ordered a new tower but I need to find a way to lock the driver to the axle after I re-quarter it. I was thinking of cutting a keyway in the axle and wheel and insuring a piece of brass into it like is done on larger motors. I tried to locate a replacement driver but no good. so I will have to repair this one .
 My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew  
Reply
#30
Keying the driver to the axle will work, but you'll need to be very accurate when cutting the keyway. An easier way to key the driver to the axle is to install the wheel, quarter it, then drill a hole centred on the interface between the axle and wheel. It actually doesn't matter if it's truly centred as long as there's roughly equal portions of the hole in both the driver and axle. Size the hole to match a known diameter of music wire, then press the wire into the hole. Use a cut-off disc to remove any excess wire.
You could also try to increase the diameter of the axle using an old machinist's trick. First, install the wheel on the axle and quarter it, then scribe a line from the centre of the axle's end and out onto the wheel hub. This will provide a reference for the proper quartering position when re-assembling.
Next, remove the driver from the axle (should be easy Wink Misngth ) and working on a block of wood or other means of keeping the remaining wheel off the surface of the workbench, place the axle end atop a mill file. Using a second file, press down firmly and roll the axle back and forth a few times - not too much. This process, known as upsetting, displaces some of the material of the axle, thereby increasing the apparent diameter. The axle doesn't, of course, fully increase in diameter, but enough material will be displaced to create a press fit for the enlarged hole in the driver.
Use the scribed reference mark to re-quarter the driver, then press it onto the axle. This method doesn't allow a lot of adjustment, as any twisting motion of the driver will tend to break-off the raised portions of the axle. Once the driver is in-quarter and properly gauged, apply some ca to the joint and set it aside to fully harden.

Wayne
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)