Wyoming valley super Mike kitbash

[e-paw]

Nice ideas Doc. I was thinking about something similar to the music wire idea, but with a screw instead. My only concern is that the axle is a very hard metal that will be difficult to drill & tap.

[Schraddel]

e-paw!

Perhaps this method may help you, but be aware this is only the kitchen table method:
- grind the axle stub to a somewhat "D" shape, this can be done even with hardened steel.
- fit the fit onto the axle stub
- fix it, e.g. by some ACC
- take a small drill, somewhat between 0.8mm und 1.2mm or similar else what is at hand
- drill - carefully - into the gap between axle and wheel center; the drill will allways take it's way into the softer material
- take a lenght of brass wire, according to the drill diameter, and a pliers and push with the aid of the pliers an end of the wire into the hole until it is press fit
- secure with ACC or elsewere
- cut off the wire flush of the wheel center
- fill the remaining gap
The wheel is now secured onto the axle. I made it even with 0-Scale models with sucess.

And i watch your progress with big interest. You show a great craftmanship in rebuilding, correct were to call it, building or (semi) scratch building this particular loco.


Lutz

[iis612]

E-Paw,

WOW!! That is really all I can say. Simply incredible work!!

Matt

[e-paw]

Thanks all...I have removed the damaged gear tower and gear from the striped driver. I should have the new tower in tomorrow. With the holiday weekend coming up it will become my labor day project to get the driver repaired and reinstalled with the new gear tower . I will just have to get Toptrain to ship the NWSH Quarter from the Anna lines shop over in Jersey to get that finished. I the meantime,, I also redid the pickups on the insulated drivers. My first version was built from KD coupler springs, it was the first time I tried this method and was not too happy with the results. They were unsoldered and brass wire used in it's place. I also removed the broken screw from the crank.
   

The front pilot of the engine has had the torch (soldering iron) put to it. The foot board on the right was missing so a new one was bent from brass and rivets were punched into it before soldering it into place. The hole for the front coupler needs some straightening up, it's a little out of kilter.    

With this done I resoldered the pilot deck onto the assembly as well. The steps that go up to the walkways were removed and saved so that I can lengthen them for the new running board location. I also used solder to fill in all the holes left in the deck from the unnecessary details that I removed. I also filled in the polling pockets with solder as they were in the wrong place and half covered by the footboards. I will replace them latter    

   

[e-paw]

While I wait for my Quarter to come in I decided to start on the boiler. All the incorrect, or details in the wrong place, were removed ( this meant most of them ). I will fill in all of the mounting holes with solder before I start to add any of the new details. I was also able to split the seam where the fire box attaches to the rear of the boiler. I will make up a few templates to match the contours of the wide Wooten firebox and try to reshape the old one to match it.

   

   

   

   

[e-paw]

I forgot to post this one

The prototype pics show two cuts in the sides of the pilot beam, I drilled them out and filed them to shape. I don't know the purpose of these holes but they are on a lot of pilots. I also mounted a coupler pocket from a Lee-Town kit that closely matched the prototypes coupler. The entire pilot was also soldered to the frame. I will wait on mounting the auxiliary air tanks on the pilot deck till I have enough of the boiler finished to mount it to the drive. This way I can match up the size more correctly as I do not know the actual diameter or length of the tanks. The polling pockets were also installed on the pilot beam.
   

[e-paw]

With the proper tools now in hand work on the drive can now continue.


I locked the bad driver in the NWSL quartering jig and drilled through the back of the driver, just short of halfway into the axle.
   


Then the gear and axle bearing were reinstalled in place, and a scrap of brass rod was epoxied in the hole drilled earlier. And yes, I did recheck the gauge and quarter over and over before I glued the rod in.    

When that was all cured, I cut and filed the nub of the rod flush with the back of the driver.. I don't think it will be coming out of quarter again.    

[modelsof1900]

e-paw, really great work!

I'm impressed about your patience and courage to unsold, remove and add new parts for a new model very close to prototype.
I must say that I never have had your courage to start such a broad rebuilding project. Wish you success!

[e-paw]

Danke lieber Herr.. (Thank you Bernhard.) I think I got it right, My German is some what rusty :oops: .
The quality of your work goes without saying.

With the drive put back together I spent some more time on the boiler, or firebox I should say. The CNJ crews liked their engines the same way they liked their women '' They gots ta have a big behind''. These Ashley steamers had a 126 1/8 inch by 108 1/8 inch firebox with a total grate area of about 95 sq. feet. With a 247 1/2 sq. feet of heating surface. This is substantially larger than a standard soft coal furnace. With that said lets put some birthing hips on this lady.

The old backhead was removed and a new one cut from brass was soldered in. I used measurements from the V. Roseman planbook in order to get the dimensions correct. A few gaps will still need to be filled with putty, but the joint is strong, so I am happy with it. A second layer of brass that I embossed with rivets was added to represent the un-lagged portions of the firebox.
   

I will add the lagging to the sides of the firebox after the walkways are installed. I soldered strips of brass to brace the widened front edge in place and filled the gap in with molten solder. This was filed and sanded to blend in with the rest of the model. The boiler band was also reattached with solder.
   

   

The inside of the furnace is a mess but it will not be seen once the boiler is installed.
   

I placed the old backhead over the new one the show the size difference. The Wootten is about a scale foot wider on each side than the standard firebox.
   

[modelsof1900]

e-paw, ok!
Yet, it's right, however please not "lieber Herr" .. or Sir, simple Bernhard. Thanks!
And congratulation again to your expensive work! I love such extensive work, hand-crafted and well designed. A job that I never would do, however that I admire and marvel.

[e-paw]

I got home a little early from work today, No traffic . So I was able to put some time into the steamer. I built the end beam from some of the same brass as the backhead. This was embossed with rivets of the same size as the un-lagged portion of the backhead. I didn't have any pictures or drawings of this, so I took a best guess and followed CNJ's normal practices. After an hour or two I came up with this,,, and for the first time in about eight years the boiler and frame have been reunited.

   

For now I put a temporary screw and nut through the cylinders and frame into the smoke box to hold the whole thing together till I come up with a weight. I forgot to mention that I ground down the flange on the second driver to make it blind. This was done to allow the engine to navigate the #4 switches in Easton where these pictures were taken.

   

   

[e-paw]

Been a while since I posted in this thread, but I haven't had much time to work on it either. So here we go....

The cab is starting to take shape.    

   

The smoke box is also moving along. Cutting the hole in the top of the smokebox for the Feed water heater bundle took a lot of courage, one slip and it would be time to build a whole new smokebox. I have mounted the bracket for the bell and Headlight, I will mount the bell latter as I don't want to lose or damage it as some of the heavier work goes on. I have cut and soldered on new walkways, I'll put diamond treed decals on them when it's gets closer to paint time.    
   

[e-paw]

Like most of the details that I will be adding to this model the stack will have to be altered. This one is a Lee-Town casting that I have shortened as part of it's installation, It still needs more work before it gets mounted.    

I placed the cab on the boiler and posed the engine with it's tender for this shot to get a feel for how it's going to look.    

[tomustang]

This project came a looooooooooooong way, keep up the great work

[e-paw]

I got the roof on the cab today and started on the interior.