What to use to remove old glue???
#1
I recently obtained an Arbour Models PRR J-1. The J-1 is mostly assembled, however there are some detail parts I feel I need to remove to fill in some jagged gaps the previous owner left. Mainly I need to remove the footboards which have been glued in place. Delicately!!! So I'm looking for suggestions on what to do to remove the old glue. Arbour Models I think are extremely rare especially the J-1 as I have only ever seen one other of these in a parts box being sold as incomplete. So, I can't afford to lose any parts. Any help would be appreciated.


Mark
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#2
A hair dryer might soften the bond with wood .....used that idea before .

T
To err is human, to blame it on somebody else shows management potential.
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#3
I guess I should be a little clearer about what the J-1 is made of. The boiler is similar to what Bowser made it's boiler out of, Zamac. But I do not think it's the same material. Hope that makes things a little clearer. Althought the hair dryer idea has potential.


Mark

Alittle internet investigating reveals that the material used to produce these kits was called Nye-600.
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#4
Mark
Do you have any idea what glue was used? Arbour is old enough that it might be epoxy. Or Goo. Possibly ACC.
If there's no plastic nearby, I would probably try ACC solvent first -- it will also attack Goo. Or Acetone.
Is it painted?
I'm not sure what gets epoxy.
David
Moderato ma non troppo
Perth & Exeter Railway Company
Esquesing & Chinguacousy Radial Railway
In model railroading, there are between six and two hundred ways of performing a given task.
Most modellers can get two of them to work.
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#5
Dave, I thought of trying the acetone/acc slovent, though I've never really had great success with either. And no the loco is not painted which is a good thing for a restoration.

Mark
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#6
Have you looked for a You Tube video ? There seems to be a video for everything these days , no matter what the topic .


I took a quick look at "remove old glue " and there are hundreds of videos ...maybe one will help you ?


T
To err is human, to blame it on somebody else shows management potential.
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#7
is the loco brass or a white metal ?
if so you could remove the loco top and dunk the lot in cellulose thinners , this may remove/soften CA , UHU , epoxy , Evo-stick (Gorilla glue) etc. as well as removing old paint .

that's my dollars worth 35

alan
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#8
Goof Off

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Tom

Model Conrail

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#9
I think where I used to work, that was in use most of the time by some of the people!
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#10
I'm probably just loosing my marbles, but I though alcohol could disrupt the super glue (CA)if that is what was used. Is it possible to get a chisel blade between the parts and pry it a little? You might be able to coax it off that way.

Depending on the gap, maybe there is an alternate method for filling these holes.

I have some "Tamiya Putty", which is a two-part clay-like substance, and I've used it in situations like that because its not exactly as "goey" as Squadron putty. It can be shaped and scribed (i've used it to repair fluted passenger car sides and no one can tell there was ever damage!). If you'll be at the club i'll give you some.

I imagine that you might be able to more easily and cleanly pack this stuff into these gaps.
Modeling New Jersey Under the Wire 1978-1979.  
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#11
Chris, probably won't make the club til next week. I've had to remove all the knob and tube wiring from my house and update the electric. Looks like I'll be done this weekend. 2285_ 2285_ 2285_ 2285_ 2285_ 2285_ 2285_ 2285_ 2285_ 2285_ 2285_ 2285_ 2285_ 2285_



Mark
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