Transistion over module gaps

[Engfanuk]

I'm back to building my baseboard but stalled on choosing a method for module connection and track transition. I could really do with some advice from those more experienced than I.

My layout is modular to allow it to be moved when I move house. However it will probably stay up for a year or more. I have an aversion to really obvious module joins. I can cope with a fair amount of time necessary in setting up again at new property including some rework on the track at joins as I'll use PVA glue for adhering the track direct to plywood baseboard, ballest will be adhered with dilute PVA. That should allow me to rewet and nudge the track if necessary.

I don't have a lot of experience with modules so I had planned to follow an approach used often in the UK for exhibition layouts. DCC components baseboard dowels and bolts with wing nuts. The track cut right at the baseboard join with brass screws or PCB sleeper and soldered. However I'm now wondering if I'm over engineering this for my purpose.

Option 1

PROS: fast set up, accurate realignment of track, ballest fixed right up to module end
CONS: accurate drilling and initial alignment paramount, more obvious module gap?

So I thought again and looked at ending the fixed track before the module ends and using a transition section of rail that can be dropped in. The idea being, I understand, is a higher tolerance in module alignment. I could then use clamps or just bolts to secure the baseboards together.

Option 2

PROS: higher tolerance to misalignment aka my bad building skills, less obvious track gap?
CONS: concern over robustness, trouble with fixing ballast on transition track piece.

I would quite like to minimise the work I need to do, especially if accuracy is so crucial. As this is semi-permenant it's important to me that I disguise the module gaps and track transitions as best I can. I had though that I may bridge the gaps with thin styrene sheet extending a way onto each module where it can be disguised. Then cutting it when I move and repair it somehow. Possible it could only be lightly glued to the baseboard allowing removal so it can be replaced entirely.

My concern with option 2 is how to ballest the transition piece so it blends in with the rest of the track. As it needs to be removable and the fishplates/track joiners need to be easily moved after a year. Has anyone had any experience with this?

I am of course willing to consider other options but I'm keen on using my recent found motivation to get the bench work up in the spare room and lay track:-) it doesn't come often to me for a variety of reasons!

I appreciate any advice.

Kind regards,

Steve.

[Catt]

If your planning to use guide pins and nuts and bolts to assemble the sections you should (using a drill press if possible) clamp the mating module ends in perfect alignment and drill the holes for both guide pins and nuts/bolts at the same time. Lay your track on assembled modules run it right up to the edge of the module then lay the next section on the next module.You can use jumper wires with connectors to allow juice from one module to the next.or you could solder contact strips and anchor them to the ends of the module so that when the modules are bolted together you instantly have power.

As for hiding the seam between modules you can use buildings ,parking lots ,roads or just run your scenic material right upm to the edge of the module.

I hope this makes sense to you as there are times I have trouble getting my ideas across.

[Engfanuk]

If your planning to use guide pins and nuts and bolts to assemble the sections you should (using a drill press if possible) clamp the mating module ends in perfect alignment and drill the holes for both guide pins and nuts/bolts at the same time. Lay your track on assembled modules run it right up to the edge of the module then lay the next section on the next module.You can use jumper wires with connectors to allow juice from one module to the next.or you could solder contact strips and anchor them to the ends of the module so that when the modules are bolted together you instantly have power.

As for hiding the seam between modules you can use buildings ,parking lots ,roads or just run your scenic material right upm to the edge of the module.

I hope this makes sense to you as there are times I have trouble getting my ideas across.

Thanks, idea definitely got across I don't have a bench press or a workshop anymore:-( I have a cordless drill and only one usable hand to wield it with. Hence accuracy isn't my best skill. It's one of the reasons I'm questioning myself over whether I can get the accuracy dowels/guide pins need or if I need them at all. Realignment would be a rare occurance and I can rewet the ballast and track to nudge it to realign if I need to.

I totally get dowels and guide pins and if this were a set of modules that had to go up regularly or an exhibition layout they'd be the way to go and I would role someone in to assist me. However I think I'm just making this more complicated than I need.

[doctorwayne]

I'm assuming that you already have a plan in place for keeping the modules aligned vertically, such as adjustable legs or using shelf brackets for support.
Once the framework of the modules is built, set it up, clamping it at the connection points with C-clamps. Drill, at as close to 90° as possible, for the alignment dowels, using at least two at each joint. Glue one dowel in each mating end, then drill for the bolts which you'll use to hold things together.
Next, lay the track so that it spans the joint. I'm not a fan of gluing track in place, but that's your choice. However, where it approaches the end of each module, I'd suggest drilling several ties and using spikes to better secure it. Use a couple in each tie (Peco or Atlas have suitable ones). Before spiking them, though, decide on whether you want the joint at the extreme ends of each module or set back, with a connector piece to span the joint.
Personally, I'd opt for set-back - this keeps the permanent track back from the ends, and less likely to be damaged when the modules are being assembled or during storage or while being transported. If you don't mind a little clickety-clack as the trains pass over, you can use the cut-out track that's in place as described below.
First, decide on a length for this section - a couple of inches will do, but 5" or 6" might be better...this will allow for a little lateral adjustment, should it be necessary, and it will also move the track joints farther away from the module joint, further helping to disguise the latter. Before cutting the rails, apply ca to all but the end ties of the section to be removed, so that the rails cannot creep when the section is removed. Also, mark one end and the permanent end to which it's currently attached - this will ensure that it's always installed in the proper orientation. You can use a dab of paint on the adjacent ties or rail or drill a small hole through the side of one end of one rail and of the rail to which it's to be joined - this will be invisible except to someone who knows where to look.
You can use a razor saw or a cut-off disc to cut the rails. If you opt for the razor saw, take care to not allow them to move laterally should the saw teeth catch. I'd go with the cut-off disc, and if you work from the end of each module (stand beside it, since they're still connected, facing along its length, with your dominant hand nearest the module). Cut both rails at the pre-selected spot on the module which you're facing....the cut will, of necessity, be angled, with the ends of the rails on the fixed portion longer at their base. Next, walk around to the other side of the joined modules and perform the same operation, leaving the ends on this fixed portion longer at their base, too. (Stand beside module A to cut the rails on B, and beside module B to cut the rails on module A.)
Sorta like this:

_____module A_____________\ \_ connector__/ /_______module B___________

You'll need four rail joiners - depending on the brand you use, you may wish to shorten them somewhat. Use the cut-off disc for that, then slip them onto the rail ends. Once you've set-up the module in its semi-permanent location, aligned with the dowels and bolted together, apply a length of wide tape over the joint, preferably something waterproof enough to withstand application of scenic materials, then drop the connector section into place. Slide the shortened rail joiners into position and then solder them to all of the rails. You can then paint the rails, apply ballast and ground cover as you normally would do.

When it comes time to move, wet the area with "wet" water, and use a scraper to remove as much of the scenic materials as possible. Use a wire brush in your Dremel or otherwise scrape the paint from the soldered rail joiners and a short area of rail to one end of each joiner. Using a hot iron, touch the tip to both rails at each joint, in-turn, and, as soon as the solder melts, use a small screwdriver or the tip of your X-Acto blade to push the joiner off the joint and onto the pre-cleaned portion of the rail. Once all four joints have been done, lift out the connector section, remove the tape and separate the modules.

Wayne

[Engfanuk]

Very detailed, thanks Wayne. Yes the baseboards are all free standing with their own legs. Do you think the alignment dowels are absolutely required if using a removable section as you describe? My thinking is that the removable section can take up enough of any small misalignment. I totally get where regular setup and realignment is necessary alignment dowel are the way to go.

Thanks for covering ballasting that makes sense to me.

[doctorwayne]

Yeah, I think that the alignment dowels will be useful: after all, the only removable part is the five or six inch piece of track - that's not much length in which to place an ess-bend to correct a misalignment.

Wayne

[BR60103]

Steve:
If you are not planning to take it to shows every few months, then I would suggest either alignment dowels or 1/4" bolts. A bolt with a couple of dowels should be more than sufficient.
I made a removable section on my old layout using a couple of methods. I took the rails to the edge and used rail joiners (Peco rail). this required taking the chairs/spikes off one tie one side and two ties the other. The rail joiner could then be slid back out of the way. At one point, on the fixed side, I put in 2 brass flathead screws and soldered the rail to them. They were put back enough to get a rail joiner on. I didn't do it on the other side because the base was foam.

[mountaingoatgreg]

Here is a product developed for the the Fremo / Free-mo world

http://www.bnm-hobbies.com/store/index.p...cts_id=211

They are PC board tie strips that just need to be lined up and secured, then the rail soldered to the top of them. He also has a long version that can be cut for odd shapes.

[Engfanuk]

Here is a product developed for the the Fremo / Free-mo world

http://www.bnm-hobbies.com/store/index.p...cts_id=211

They are PC board tie strips that just need to be lined up and secured, then the rail soldered to the top of them. He also has a long version that can be cut for odd shapes.

That's very cool. I do have pcb ties that were part if a plan to adapt Peco points which I thought I could use.

[Engfanuk]

Steve:
If you are not planning to take it to shows every few months, then I would suggest either alignment dowels or 1/4" bolts. A bolt with a couple of dowels should be more than sufficient.
I made a removable section on my old layout using a couple of methods. I took the rails to the edge and used rail joiners (Peco rail). this required taking the chairs/spikes off one tie one side and two ties the other. The rail joiner could then be slid back out of the way. At one point, on the fixed side, I put in 2 brass flathead screws and soldered the rail to them. They were put back enough to get a rail joiner on. I didn't do it on the other side because the base was foam.

Thanks m and Wayne too, I am going to use 10mm bolts and the DCC Concepts alignment "dowels". I think that'll be more than robust for my purpose. I'm glad I posted the question to check my thinking and have some other advice. I really appreciate all the replies.

[torikoos]

Accuracy dowels etc are helpful but not strictly needed. We don't really use them in our modular (Freemo based) layouts in the UK either.

If you're interested in the spec, here's a few links.

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.nmrabr.org.uk/nmra-ho-modules-spec">http://www.nmrabr.org.uk/nmra-ho-modules-spec</a><!-- m -->

and :
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://rstower.wordpress.com/module-info/">https://rstower.wordpress.com/module-info/</a><!-- m --> on which the above was based.

Hope it's useful.

Koos