HO gauge switching layout: Shenandoah Valley

[faraway]

A well assembled list. May I add
C. If B) applies there is no stress at all. It my very discretionary decision to fix it now, tomorrow, next week or at the next layout. May be even never. That is the wonderful difference between a hobby and the real world.

[Zomboid]

It's odd how we tend to place switchers with the long hood towards the cars. I imagine if there was a choice in the matter it would be preferred to have the better visibility on the things which were being coupled.
I do it as well when I run my S2...

[Catweasel]

I will try code 75 next time I build a layout

Hi there. I'm using Code 75 myself as that's what I had when I built a British layout. I find that the American diesels don't overpower the track and, to me, it seems to fit a lightly laid shortline better. But saying that, I've always used a lighter rail than standard. On 16 mm narrow gauge for example, the "standard" rail is Code 200, which is OK for big steamers and a big line, but for my little industrial type loco's I used Code 100 f/b. because it looked more in keeping. If I had the space to build a mainline USA 'road, I'd use Code 83 on the main with 75 in the yards.

[BR60103]

On point 8 (trees), this is what I was thinking of when I made my "6 to 200 ways to do something; average modeller can get 2 to work" comment. So far I can't get any of them to work for trees, but my wife buys them by the bushel and installs them.

I don't remember the Shenandoah Valley (despite my wife's nephew's having lived on the banks for a few years), but when we drove the Susquehannah valley a few states north, we both thought that the trees looked exactly like a forest of lichen -- the round ends.

Except on cardboard, work with water soluble glues so that you can wash out your mistakes.

[CSX_UK]

I was going to post my latest work on trees, but they have turned out really badly. I am using some real foliage I picked up at an art store I am struggling to colour them in a realistic way. So, I have decided to buy this ebook come next payday: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.ostpubs.com/Store/product_info.php?products_id=48&osCsid=0c6irr43c17tveva3gibda4902">http://www.ostpubs.com/Store/product_in ... 3gibda4902</a><!-- m -->
I have been avidly reading his blog, and it has really made me think. He is a little bit harsh on some, but I can understand where he is coming from. Hopefully this book will set me on the right path.

Last night I finished off building the shed for my corn syrup facility. This is the building where all the pipes will come together, where the controls would sit, etc. It is a freelanced model, inspired by various prototypes. I heavily kitbashed a Wills Signal Box kit to make it. I enjoyed building it, and I feel much more confident about scratchbuilding an actual prototype now (this will be one of my New Year projects). So at some point in the next year I will be replacing this with a better structure. For now, it will serve as a testbed for painting and weathering techniques.

The main lesson I learnt from this though is that I need to learn how to really accurately cut a straight line through styrene. Any tips? Might sound stupid, but getting a really straight edge is something I need to work at.

[Catweasel]

The best way to cut styrene is to have a steel rule and a sharp blade. For stuff up to 40 thou. I use a Swan Morton scalpel. Heavier,I use a Stanley knife. Run the blade along the rule, this will give the blade a guide. Then lightly make a few passes along the line. You don't need to cut right through. When you've got about half way you'll be able to snap it along the line. Wills kits are another matter. They can be cut the same way, just takes longer because the material is so thick. I use a band saw for stuff that thick. Bit of water keeps the plastic cool. If you find a blade doesn't cut bin it for a new one. Blunt blades are lethal. One more tip re. disposal of blades. Get a metal money box, label it "Sharps" and put the old blades in it. Have fun.

[BR60103]

Steel straightedge and sharp knife. If you can find a blade that's only beveled on one side, even better. I like a straightedge that doesn't have any backing (I have one with a cork no-slip surface that I avoid.)
Measure a bunch of times. I mark near each end of the cut with the blade, then I hold the blade in the top mark, move the straightedge up to it, then rotate it to the other mark. You need to guess how far off the blade will cut.
Draw the knife lightly down the straightedge, pushing or turning it slightly in so that it doesn't wander. Then repeat many times. If you have plain plastic, after a cetain point you may be able to bend it and snap.
If you have really thick plastic, try what we call a scrawker. This is a blade that has a bit of a curl and the cutting surface is at the front and digs out a trough. Mine was sold as a Plexiglass knife.

[CSX_UK]

Thanks for the advice Catweasel and BR60103, I've tried what you've advised and that makes a difference. I will have to hunt down a plexi-glass cutting knife for when I next want to cut some thick styrene.

Over the last two nights I have built and painted the rail stops I recently received (thanks again to those people who helped me out with that!) I have also done the basic painting of the corn syrup control building. I have also attempted to some more trees - but still not good enough yet for photos.

The next task will be to weather the control building - I have just got some supplies to do so in the post this morning

Actually, the next task is to wrap Christmas presents, then I can do some modelling.

Lesson for the day - look at the prototype. So, walking back from the local post office I took some photos of trees to study (quite a few actually).

[Catweasel]

That's shaping up nicely mate. A suggestion if I may re. bumpers. I don't think they would be placed right on the end of the track. Something like 4 to 6 feet would be better. That way, if they get hit, they would tend to slide instead of going off the end into the ground. I may be wrong of course. Can any one advise?

[Prairie Trains]

That's shaping up nicely mate. A suggestion if I may re. bumpers. I don't think they would be placed right on the end of the track. Something like 4 to 6 feet would be better. That way, if they get hit, they would tend to slide instead of going off the end into the ground. I may be wrong of course. Can any one advise?

The stops where bolted to the rails and if they where hit hard enough they would take the rails with them. So yes they are in the right place.

[CSX_UK]

Hi,

Thanks for the feedback re: the rail stops. I looked at a lot of photos, and there did not seem to be a 100% hard-and-fast rule. So ultimately I decided to go with the advice from this: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.westernsafety.com/products/aldon2012/aldon2012pg5.html">http://www.westernsafety.com/products/a ... 12pg5.html</a><!-- m --> as this company seems to sell them. I imagine there are scenarios where they would be placed in different places on the track depending on location, additional risk factors, etc.

[BR60103]

I think there might be variations depending on how hard it might be hit and how expensive it would be if something went through. A muddy field might get a cheaper treatment than a track pointing at a busy road or a customer's warehouse.
I saw a couple of pictures of a British yard where all the buffer stops seemed to have been reduced to bits of lumber.

[CSX_UK]

Agreed - I can imagine that if a spur ended next to a school they would probably put more safety measures in place than if it ended in an area of wasteland!

Having now built some of these kit-built rail stops I feel much more confident about building my own from scratch. This is my next challenge. I just need to get some more styrene sheets from ebay...

[Brakie]

Agreed - I can imagine that if a spur ended next to a school they would probably put more safety measures in place than if it ended in an area of wasteland!

Having now built some of these kit-built rail stops I feel much more confident about building my own from scratch. This is my next challenge. I just need to get some more styrene sheets from ebay...

Unless things has changed since my last railroading days (Chessie 78-84) no,a simple bumper or wheel stops since there are other safety factors involved such as setting the hand brakes and OSHA unloading process requires chocking of the freight car wheels since a dock plate is in use.There are other OSHA safety requirements for loading/unloading other types of freight cars.

Another factor is the majority of large rail served industries has a security fence surrounding the property and this would also stop a slow moving freight car.

[lajry]

[quote="CSX_UK"

Another factor is the majority of large rail served industries has a security fence surrounding the property and this would also stop a slow moving freight car.

Most security fences are chain link which won't stop a freight car weighing 50-70 tons no matter how slow it's going. That's like thinking steel toe boots are going to protect your feet if a freight car rolls over them! LOL