Problem with current on sidings

[RobertInOntario]

Looks like I've solved the problem by replacing the Peco turnout with an Atlas one. ... Not ideal but at least it's working. (I've had the above Peco points for a while and I've lost track if they're insulfrog or electrofrog). At any rate, thanks for your feedback with this lingering problem!

[RobertInOntario]

Robert, Make sure the frog on the switch is insulated.
Charlie

Thanks, Charlie. I've had these Peco turnouts for a while & I've lost track if they're insulfrog or electrofrog :oops: -- I think I need insulfrog?

At any rate, I've just solved the problem by using an Atlas turnout which is working well. It won't be ideal but is much better than having this whole section not working at all.

Rob

[Charlie B]

Glad you figured it out. I have a crossover that would short, I just cut gaps around the frog and filled the gap with JB Weld. I don't have any problems with anything stalling on them.
Charlie

[Brakie]

Problems like this usually turns out simple like a feeder wire shorting out. I 'll bet its not the switch since the switch was replace..

You can wire a frog until the cows come home and beyond and still won't end the short.

[RobertInOntario]

Problems like this usually turns out simple like a feeder wire shorting out. I 'll bet its not the switch since the switch was replace..

You can wire a frog until the cows come home and beyond and still won't end the short.

Yes, it was a strange problem... Still not totally sure as to the cause -- it had several people stumped!

[Brakie]

Rob,Did you use any jumper wires? If your switch is powered any wire braid touching the other post or close enough to cause a arc when the motor is activated? If you are using Atlas selectors make sure no braid is touching the other post.

If the siding is blocked (isolated) is the wires reversed at the rails or toggle switch? Please don't ask how I know this. :oops:

[RobertInOntario]

Rob,Did you use any jumper wires? If your switch is powered any wire braid touching the other post or close enough to cause a arc when the motor is activated? If you are using Atlas selectors make sure no braid is touching the other post.

If the siding is blocked (isolated) is the wires reversed at the rails or toggle switch? Please don't ask how I know this. :oops:

Thanks... I tried connecting another transformer to the rails (with the main power turned off) and I had the same result.

At any rate, I'm happy now that the Atlas turnout is working, but I'm still not sure why that one is OK but the two Peco ones that I tried are not!

[e-paw]

I did have a similar problem with Pico switches. On some of them the two inner rails past the frog are electricly common to the frog. When the switch points make contact to the stock rails, they will pic up power from them by way of little wipers that attach to the bottom of the rail. This passes on power to the frog and the two inner rails of the switch that I mentioned earlier. So depending on the position of the switch the points, frog, and inner rails will be eather positive or negative. Insulators must be used on the two inner rails of the switch just past the frog . If they are not used the switch will cause a short where the track and switch meet in the opposite path that the switch is lined for. I hope this is not too confusing, I can draw up a diagram to post if it would help explain this. If you still have the old switch and a multi-metter you can test this for yourself.

[RobertInOntario]

I did have a similar problem with Pico switches. On some of them the two inner rails past the frog are electricly common to the frog. When the switch points make contact to the stock rails, they will pic up power from them by way of little wipers that attach to the bottom of the rail. This passes on power to the frog and the two inner rails of the switch that I mentioned earlier. So depending on the position of the switch the points, frog, and inner rails will be eather positive or negative. Insulators must be used on the two inner rails of the switch just past the frog . If they are not used the switch will cause a short where the track and switch meet in the opposite path that the switch is lined for. I hope this is not too confusing, I can draw up a diagram to post if it would help explain this. If you still have the old switch and a multi-metter you can test this for yourself.

Thanks -- I sort of understand this! I still have the two problematic turnouts and will have to get a meter to check them. The meter will come in handy in the future as well.

[e-paw]

Please don't make fun of my drawing skills,,I am much better at building trains. I drew a turnout with the points in each direction to show you where the short will happen.    

[MountainMan]

Check the wiring on your turnout. Is it a power-routing one? Is the frog properly insulated? Is the switch turning itself off when it changes position - thus not powering the other track?

Best investment one can make: small voltage meter.

[RobertInOntario]

Please don't make fun of my drawing skills,,I am much better at building trains. I drew a turnout with the points in each direction to show you where the short will happen.[ATTACHMENT NOT FOUND]

Those are actually very clear & helpful diagrams! I might tinker with some track work later. I'm thinking of installing another siding and don't want the same problem to happen again.

[mr bachmann]

( Thank God for Kato )

[Brakie]

( Thank God for Kato )

Yes,they make bullet proof switches. I use Kato track when I was in N Scale.

To date I have had zero problems with my Peco switches but, I still find this topic very interesting in case this problem befalls me.