MWaz Get off your duff challenge
#16
A little advancement was made on the tender today. Filling in some holes with Squadron putty.
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Holes around where the ladder was at.
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Added the electrical conduit for the marker lights.
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And reinstalled ladder in more of a PRR fashion.
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#17
Got to nearly finish the tender detailing last night. Still needs the marker lights to be added.
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Here's how she's looking now.
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Hoping to get the DCC back in operation tonight so I can take to the club tomorrow night and see how she runs. We'll see. :o
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#18
I bet she pulls like tank. Nicely done sir.
My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew
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#19
Steve, I don't know if pulls like a tank is the right way put it when you run a Bowser locomotive in DCC. I wish it did pull like a tank, but one has think more about how a real steam locomotive would pull a string of cars when running in DCC. Since DCC replicates prototypical speeds. Which was something I had to adjust my brain to when I first put this H-9 together. I did expect the same speed and power as if the H-9 operated in straight DC, but that is not the case when operating in DCC without changing gear ratios or finding some can motor with some off the scale RPM's.

Mark
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#20
Little more work made last night in getting the locomotive ready for DCC. Didn't get to where I hoped to last night and won't get to the club tonight, either. We have a program to attend at my daughter's school tonight that I didn't know about.

Electric tape, Walthers nylon screws, 4-40 3/4 screw(the one in picture has been cut already) and a 2-56 3/4.
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I guess at the time when I put the drive together I didn't have any nylon screws and I used a brass screw to secure motor to frame. So, I need to replace this screw with the 2-56 nylon screw. The 4-40 screw is for the mount at rear of motor(not seen in this picture). Sorry, for the blurry picture but threads of brass screw can be seen.
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I had to remove the bottom cover plate, so now I am able to show the area that was filed out for the NWSL drive.
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I use electrical tape to isolate the motor from the frame.

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Last picture, motor is mounted to frame with nylon screws and insulated with electrical tape. Checking for continuity. None found. That means motor is isolated from frame. That's a good thing. :tada:

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#21
Nicely-done detail work, Mark. :clap: :tada: :clap: :tada: :clap:

twilight Wrote:....Since DCC replicates prototypical speeds. Which was something I had to adjust my brain to when I first put this H-9 together. I did expect the same speed and power as if the H-9 operated in straight DC, but that is not the case when operating in DCC without changing gear ratios or finding some can motor with some off the scale RPM's.

Mark

Those of us using DC powered locomotives, for the most part, I think, also use prototypical speeds, simply controlling them with the throttle. Most of my steamers, both plastic and brass, have fairly realistic top speeds, and the couple of older diecast ones are easily controlled. My mainline all has posted speed limits, though, and they're all well below the top speed of my locos' prototypes.
Pulling power depends more on the motor's strength than its rpm (one reason why some old locos with open-frame motors are good pullers) and is also dependent on sufficient weight to keep the drivers from slipping too much.
It is possible to put too much weight into a locomotive - if it can't move its train and the drivers won't slip, chances are that the motor could burn out - this applies to DC and DCC.
I add weight to all of my locomotives, but when the trains are too heavy for one locomotive, I simply add another, either as a helper or as a pusher.

Wayne
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#22
You know what Wayne, I made an unsubstantiated comment there between DC and DCC and prototypical speeds. Somewhere buried in all the posts here on the Big Blue is a post I made about speed differences I had saw after I installed a decoder into this loco years ago. DCC seemed to have a cap on where one could push the motor for speed and power. Where running the loco in straight DC the loco would just fly down the rails. At that time I expected the locomotive to respond exactly the same regardless if the locomotive had a decoder or not. But, I have learned that is not case. Which is like I mentioned,was an adjustment I had to make in my head after building 3 other Bowser kits(L-1's) and seeing them all operate in the same fashion with a decoder installed in them (I have 4th one too, an PRR E-6, but that has I different driver size).

In my workroom at home, I have an Accutrack II Speedometer and a Micromark drawbar pull meter. What might be interesting is after I finish the DCC install on this H-9 is see how things measure up DC to DCC. I've never ran a DC Bowser H-9 through the Speedometer, but I have one I could try. For that matter, I'm not sure if I ran this DCC H-9 through it either. I know some Bowser locomotive went through it because I have a number in my head but I'm unsure if it was the E-6 or one of the other freight locomotives. It's been awhile and a lot has happened since I was able to devote time to these Bowser builds. This experiment is something I should do anyway to develop some kind of baseline.

Didn't mean to be offensive to the DC guys out there,

Mark
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#23
No offence taken, Mark. I have one of those MicroMark pull meters, too, but I find actual road tests a better assessment of what a locomotive can pull. I also have plans to put in a couple of "speed traps"....not the kind where there's a cop with a radar gun, but a measured distance over which a train's speed can be shown depending on the time taken from the "Start" sign to the "End" sign. There'll be a chart on the layout's fascia showing elapsed times and the equivalent average speed over that distance. This is mainly intended as a tool to show operators (usually just me Crazy ) what a certain speed "looks" like.

I'm not a fan of super slow switching speeds, the one tie per minute type, at least, even though the throttle which I use is probably capable of it. The purpose of the railroad is mainly to move goods and I want the layout to convey that feeling of accomplishment rather than simply running trains to see them run. I hope that when it's fully operational, it will provide that opportunity.

Most of the layout has signed speed limits, and most trains on the many uphill grades would be hard pressed to achieve them. The limits are more important to downbound trains, where excess speed could lead to catastrophic results, as most grades are on curves.

Wayne
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#24
Here's a little side story to something I mentioned earlier in this thread concerning a backplate for an Bowser E-6 & H-9.
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Recently, after I posted the section on freelancing the backplate for the H-9, one popped up in a Ebay listing. So I put in my watch list. Description said it was exactly what I was looking for E-6/H-9 backplate w/engineer & fireman including correct part # 1-100612. And I won the bid. When item was delivered to my house, it wasn't the item I ordered. It was Bowser part# 1-100412 bulkhead. Description was printed on back of Bowser tag.(photo of what was sent)

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Seller was very understanding and thought he missed shipped the item to another buyer. But it turned out other buyer got what they ordered. Seller issued immediate return and refund as he did not have a backplate to send me.

What I wanted to illustrate by this little story was, how hard this backplate has been to track down. I've been collecting Bowser locomotive stuff for years, and I was very happy when I got the one I did. But, this isn't the first time this has happened to me chasing down this part. I remember a few years ago a seller listed 4 of them with a "Buy It Now" price, which I jumped at. Only to find out the next day the seller cancelled the sale saying that the parts were no longer available. Curse
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#25
So, continuing on with the decoder install, I needed to drill and tap the hole for a 2-56 screw. Since I am using the main drivers for a pick up I will attach one leg of a Microtronics 3 pin micro mini connector to the new screw. The other 2 leads will be soldered on the posts on the NWSL motor. Incidentally, I used a NWSL 2032D-9 motor, 2.0mm shaft with 9500 RPM's. Gearbox was also from NWSL part# 153-6, which was recommended for Bowser freight steam locomotives.

Hole will be drilled where black dot is at.
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Hole is drilled and tapped.
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With screw for pick up wire.
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Here are the connectors I use. 3 pin for motor leads and pick up. 2 pin connector is for the headlight.
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Before, I put this on the test track. I checked the mechanism for any binding, which I found of course. I needed to tighten up some screws in the valve rods I had left loose. Added a touch of CA to the threads to prevent them from backing out. Here is the drive being tested with a transformer after the binding was taken out.
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Next, I solder in the 3 pin connector leads.
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I was able to put the whole thing back together and for the first time in about 4 or 5 years the darn thing ran down my test track. I was trying to post a video but it won't upload to my Photobucket page. Not sure if I can post a video here also. Anyway, the H-9 topped out at scale speed of 48 mph. Since, I do not have anything to reference that number to I'm going to assume that speed is relatively accurate. If anyone has an info that they could share I would certainly appreciate that.
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#26
Here's a youtube link to check out the H-9 on my test track. Very short video.

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://youtu.be/QCaz94DcwVo">https://youtu.be/QCaz94DcwVo</a><!-- m -->
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#27
I think I'm at the point where a trip to the club layout is in order. I'll try to grab some video there too. But for now all the detail parts are in place. Some I have to fix up a bit. I might try to get some brake gear in between the drivers, yet. Next big thing is heading to the paint booth. But that is out in the garage an I'd like to get some warmer weather before I do any painting out there. Looks like some is coming this weekend. :tada:

Mark
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#28
Quick little update from last night.

This was bugging me.
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I found that if I remove a little bit of the styrene spacer I installed I could pass the harness through there.
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There's enough room to pass the the headlight harness through also.


BTW. I did have a chance to run the straight DC Bowser through the speedometer. Both locomotives seemed identical with the eyeball test around 50 scale miles. But the DC Bowser pushed 80 mph when transformer was turned all the way up. Where the DCC loco topped out at 48 mph. Watching some BLI H-10 videos on youtube I think the DCC top end speed is about right.
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#29
Here's a little clip of the H-9 running at my club. The NWSL gearbox and motor seem a good combination. Pulled 5 40ft car with no problem. Would of liked to add more cars but the wheels seemed to have pick up all the dirt on the track :wait: .

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#30
Finally some warm weather showed up, so I was able to start priming the H-9. Did a little research on the inner webs today and found this primer made by Tamiya and picked it up at he LHS. I choose this because it's for metal and plastic. Also, I plan to use Scalecoat I Brunswick Green for the topcoat. Reviews stated it will protect the styrene I used from the Scalecoat I paint which is for metal.
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And after a coating or two of primer.
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Will be moving on to the boiler after a little repair work from the trip to the club.
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