MWaz Get off your duff challenge
#46
Been a little busy lately with other projects around the house and haven't been able to devote much attention to the H-9 build. But was able to get a first coat of paint on the boiler yesterday :tada: .
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Heavy rain today and temps in the low 50's today. Since I'm banished to the garage for painting there won't be much painting today.
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#47
Here we go with now couple coats of DGLE(Scalecoat Brunswick Green):
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Now when I get to weathering the H-9, one will probably not even see any of this color anymore.
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#48
Today is the day that I had some spare time to make a little more advancement with the H-9 project. I am off from work today and I'm working around raindrops out in the yard. So while I had a little down pour outside to wait out. I decided to give the brake gear a shot. I purchased these off line for the H-9. I've used them once before and wasn't really crazy about how they applied to the project(glue wise). But I'm going to give them another shot.
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I will have to remove the valve gear, cylinder chest and main rods to install these. Which is OK because with Bower kits, Bowser recommends you disassemble everything for painting after locomotive is proven to operate correctly.

Here's a before and after shot. After shot is with brake gear installed on firemen's side of locomotive.
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Hopefully, will get to do the engineer's side later today.
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#49
And since it continued to rain. I moved on to the engineer's side.
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Next, I'll be taking the rest of the frame apart for painting.
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#50
Got everything painted now. :tada:
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I'll be moving onto decals next. I also want to do some work in the cab as far as some painting. When that is done I'll move on to reassembly and weathering.


I'm glad it's again gotten this far :clap: .
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#51
Got to apply the decals today.
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Years ago I thought Pollyscale made a color called smokebox grey but I haven't been able to find any information about it on any cross reference chart. So, I got a bottle of Scalecoat smokebox grey and I like the results of it. Dries a flat grey color. I applied some to the firebox also.

This particular steam engine work in the "NY zone" on the PRR. The picture(link to "Railroading in the Northeast") I posted on the first page shows it in Trenton, NJ. Not to far from where I grew up(Morrisville, PA). So, I did the front pilot as, NJ ETE, which was for the NY Division. ETE is for East Trenton Enginehouse.
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I'm liking the way the Scalecoat Brunswick Green is looking black.
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And a tail end shot:
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I still have some #'s to put on the number plate that goes on the front of the smokebox and #'s for the headlight.
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#52
Little bit more on decal work. Number board on smoke box. Looks like I need to straighten out that generator bracket.
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I was searching the inter webs one night looking for a Pullman Green color that resembles the color green that Floquil used to make. And it's difficult to compare paint chips from different paint makers on a computer screen. But, I settled on a upstart RR model paint company from GA, Called Modelers Paints and Decals and decided to give them a try. Started by a longtime model railroader who also missed Floquil and Pollyscale paints. Manufacture claims to match Floquil paint color exactly. Selection is rather small at this time, but will take color request under consideration to add to they're product line. The reason why I mention all this is, they also have a color called "cab green", which I decided also to pick up. When I saw how Steve detailed the cab of his camelback, I thought that looked pretty cool. I'm not going to do that much detail on the backhead because it will mostly be covered by a backplate. But a little different color in the cab could add some interest.
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The cab green went on thin and took a couple of coats. The grey on the top of the cab is suppose to represent "Insulmat" a product PRR used in the cabs when the wooden ceilings were removed. Photo was also taken with a flash.
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#53
Got some re-assembly done. Drivers back on frame including NWSL gearbox.
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I also cleaned the drivers.
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I remember finding an article on the internet referring to another club in our area that only cleans its track work once a year. We can clean our track work weekly. :?

Got the main rods and valve gear back on also along with the cylinder chest.
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We'll see if I can get a little more done today.
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#54
Got the pilot back on this morning.
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Also NWSL motor is back in place and insulated.
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And put the brake shoes on the firemen's side.
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Going to let them dry awhile before I move on to the engineer's side.
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#55
It's nice to see work continuing on your locomotive, Mark. I wish I had time to work on some of mine.

Wayne
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#56
Wayne, work has slowed down a lot since the challenge is over, but the home improvement projects are really getting knocked out :tada: . I plug away when I can now, but I want to have this done by our next show season. Starting in Nov. this year.

Mark
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#57
Recently was able to get the brake shoes on the engineer's side.
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That's my mother-in-laws earrings in the foam cradle. They're in for a repair job.

And incidentally, I gave this glue a whirl for securing the brake shoes in place and it worked pretty well.
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Was able to do some work on the head light this morning.
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Head light is from Cal Scale (190-477) with a hole drilled out the back to allow the LED leads to pass through. Inside headlight is painted silver. Brunswick green on the outside.

I use Minitronics LEDs. I like the Yeloglo version.
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And I used TCS 30 AWG wire with correct colors for the front headlight.
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When I install the LED in the head light (when I remember) I install the anode side of the LED on the right when looking down on the headlight. The anode is the positive side and is the longer lead. The blue wire will get connected on the anode, white on the cathode.
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And a little test to check if everything is working.
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LEDs only working in one direction. If the positive is connected to the cathode the LED will not work and could be damaged. If the LED is connected correctly and to much voltage is applied it will also be damaged.

Here is the headlight in place on the smokebox. Some H-9 boilers(Bowser's E-6 was the same boiler) will have a hole already drilled for the headlight leads. This one I had to drill myself.
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I run the wires through some styrene tubing and solder it to a male end of Minitronics 2 pin connector (part# 50-001-02).
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The female side of the Miniatronics connector is soldered to the respective leads on the decoder (installed in tender) for the front head light. The 3.9K resistor is solder in series with the blue lead from decoder. I will be changing the resistor to 4.7k because I think the headlight is to bright. I just ordered 4.7k resistors to do that and when I finish off the tender side of build I'll swap it out.
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Now a unfortunate mishap happened when I was installing the styrene tubing. I used accelerator on the CA to glue the tubing in place and some leaked out on the finish side of boiler crazing the paint. :wall1:
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So, I'll have to come up with some way to repair that. Locomotive will be heavily weathered when done so hopefully after the accelerator dries the paint won't flake off like it already has.
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#58
Well, this week I received my lifetime supply of 4.7K ohm resistors. 100 for like $2.50 :tada: .
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I replaced the 3.9K resistor with the new 4.7K resistor. Single blue wire comes from decoder to resistor. Double blue wire will be the positive side of the front headlight and the tender light.
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I soldered one of the blue leads off the resistor and the white lead(front headlight for DCC) from the decoder to the Miniatronics dual pin connector.
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And as fate would have it, when I got this side of the headlight circuit together and placed it on the the test track, I wasn't able to communicate with the decoder Curse So, after several hours of troubleshooting Sat. and Sun. morning, I finally noticed this:
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The bottom lead for the motor was touching the large brass screw on the motor frame. When I separated them from each other I was finally able to communicate with decoder and I was finally able to see this:
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Occasionally I use this product to isolate connections that possibly can become grounded. It works like shrink tube when it dries. Found this in Home Depot when I was repairing some old cloth wire in a light fixture before biting the bullet and removing the old knob and tube wiring in the house.
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Going to try and get the tender light done tonight. Hopefully without further troubleshooting Crazy .
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#59
Has not been a good train building weekend. Blew out the original LED light for the tender and I have no more in my DCC drawer Curse :wall1: Curse . I'll have to check the LHS tomorrow.
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#60
I had to to purchase the LED's on line and I usually get the 10 pack. And they arrived the other day.

So here's where I start at, this is the tender light I blew up last week. I have to take this apart.
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Here's the back end of the light compared with a new Cal Scale light, so the enlarged hole is visible. I just drilled it out a little larger so the LED leads will pass through.
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There is a collar to the rear of the LED that needs to be filed off to fit into the headlight. Once that is done, the LED will fit snugly into the head light. I apply little glue to seat the LED. LED bulb should be recessed into headlight. I also repainted the headlight, DGLE.
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Here's a shot of the completed headlight before install on tender. Going to let the paint dry for a little while before I leave a big ole' fingerprint on it. Testing it with a little voltage applied. Going to try to get this installed on the tender later today or tonight.
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