MWaz Get off your duff challenge
Got that tender light in place this afternoon: [Image: IMG_0304_zpskgd52ips.jpg]

And was able to tie it in. Yellow wire off decoder is for rear light function and blue wire supplies positive power, tied in off of 4.7K resistor(other blue lead heads for front headlight along with white function wire from decoder, via the Miniatronics two pin harness).
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And so it's been along time since it's looked like this:
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I'm quite happy to get this point after all of this time Big Grin . And it's a good jumping off spot till I come back from vacation. Still to do is, a test run or 2 at the club, touch up paint, weathering, windows, backplate and crew, coal in the coal bunker.

While on vacation, I'll be bringing along this for after everyone goes to bed or before the get up.
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Will see if I can get anywhere with this. As you can see it's already been started. I then took it apart again cause I messed the windows up on the first attempt and got it back to this point. I had to track down some replacement basswood siding, but was able to that through Northeastern Lumber Company.
Well after along hiatus from this build, I pulled it down off the shelf because my club's open house season starts at the end of the month. I did a couple of test runs on the test track in my work room and things were fine. So, on off to the club for a full blown test run. Right out of the chute, problems Curse . Locomotive moved along the straight away it was on, bucking and making noises eventually stopping forward motion. Checked reverse. Had reverse then made high pitch winding noise. I removed it from track and brought it home. I didn't have time for troubleshooting at the club. At home, I checked for binding and did not notice any in the drive mechanism. Sometimes, with these Bowser kits, screws will back themselves out and lock up the drive. I didn't see anything of that nature, either. What I did find is the ball and pin at the end of the motor shaft was loose.
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So, I replaced it and put it all back together. Still was not operating smoothly. I then began looking at the gear box.
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Somewhere along the line in this build, I remember finding this screw would not tighten down. Stayed in the hole though.
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I took the rest of the gearbox apart and found plastic shavings floating around in the worm drive(no picture). Then I notice that the worm gear was all sloppy. Not sure if it can be clearly seen, but the little stub in the middle of the gearbox is the worm gear. To the right of that stub is a noticeable gap. Not suppose to be there. Also, the worm shaft is all sloppy, too.
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Here is a picture of another NWSL gearbox I have for a future K4 build. Notice there is no gap where the silver disk is on this gearbox.
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I ordered a new gearbox and also sent an email to Dave at NWSL. He let me know I can just order the sides of the gear box, which I might do and keep the other gearbox for an I1 build or a re-gearing project on one my L1's.

Stay tuned. I want try to get this up and complete before show season.
Well it turns out I ordered a new gearbox for nothing(well nothing for this build anyway) because I already had one one hand.
[Image: IMG_0674_zps5lgqvzzm.jpg]

And after having a conversation with Dave from NWSL I've learned that this gearbox will likely work well with both steam locomotives with 62" drivers and 80" drivers backed up with they're 2032D-9 motor.

First thing to do was to cut shaft down to the same size as the one on the right. I used a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel to do this.
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Next was to press on a receiver cup from this NWSL kit on to the new shaft. Following instructions on package.
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This was handy for putting the cup on.
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Here's a shot of everything back together.
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Used a little Labelle gearbox and bearing oil where needed.
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With a little more time, got gearbox back in frame.
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And now with everything back together and a couple back and forths on the test track, its ready again to be taken up to the club for a test run.
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I think I found what failed in the old gearbox but I'm waiting for the new parts to come so I can compare them. Though I'm not sure what caused the gearbox to do what I think it did.

I'm off from work today for Veteran's Day, so I'll be able to get a test run in.

Thanks to all of you that have served our country.
So here's my theory, some kind of crud got into the gearbox in the area of the worm shaft and bearing. Causing bearing to seize and begin to spin and scoring the gearbox. Notice groove near end of yellow stick.
[Image: IMG_0683_zps3xmwrcxd.jpg]

Here is a comparison between a brand new gearbox side and the one that failed.
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This is the worm shaft that was in the gearbox. Bearing on right is all scored and has some discoloration on it.
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For those of you that may have followed this or read through this thread from the beginning, you may remember me mentioning the E-6/H-9 backplate and how rare the have been for me to find. Well the other night some one on Ebay listed two in a mostly Bowser lot sale with a "Buy It Now" price. I probably paid way to much for them but I justified the cost for how hard they are to find. Plus, I got two of the more common ones for L-1's & K-4's(not pictured).

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Very happy about this score Thumbsup .

On another front, I have hit a challenge with this NWSL gearbox. What I would think is a pretty straight forward assembly and installation has proven highly frustrating for me. I will be attempting the third gearbox install tonight after failures with the first two. I am almost to the point where I may consider a BLI H-10 :evil: :evil: :evil: .

i had just the same kind of failure:

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Got from a customer a elder Fujiama 2-8-8-2 brass which does not run. Someone had rebuilt before the loco by using NWSL 1:28 Hi-Lo gearbox set. Anyway the loco would'nt run proper. The rear geabox was very rough running.
The reason is shown on the photo above. Left side the original shaft bearing with a very tight fit onto the shaft, right a brand new bearing from NWSL.
And a closer look onto the left bearing shows spinning marks on the outer side. And second, note the outer shape of the bearing. It should be cylindrical, not of this artistic free formed conoid.
Fortunately the gearbox casing was not so worn out as yours, so that only a new bushing was the solution to repair the gear box.
Cheers Lutz
Lutz, it may be just a trick of the camera's lense, but the worm shaft appears to have a slight bend in it.


the shaft is seemingly bend by the camera lens, but in reality the shaft is straight.
The different outer diameters of the bearing could be veryfied by measuring with a caliper.
And the fitting of the new NWSL gearbox casing type, so it appears to me, is not as good as it was with the old casing. In several cases i had to do substantial refinishing work with the new moulded plastic gear box.

Cheers Lutz
Just a little update on the NWSL gearbox situation. I may have discovered after all this time what may have been causing me so much trouble with the gearbox, aside from the bearing failing. I believe I have been over-tightening the four screws that close the gearbox sides together. Directions say to just "snug" screws down. My definition of snug must be different then the the makers at NWSL. Anyway, I had the H-9 at the club today and it ran pretty well. But, I now found a new hurdle to overcome. The H-9 can handle the inclines (2 of them one eastbound and westbound) at the club when ran by itself, but when ran with a string of cars it slips. Believe it or not, at nearly 2 slips. Which I think I remember it did when it ran before and I had to add Bullfrog Snot to the drivers. Will get some on tonight and let it set.

My apologies, for the lack of photos through this whole gearbox disaster. When I get into these things where I'm trying to figure things out, I wasn't really thinking about taking pictures. I was thinking I can't believe I have to take this stupid gearbox again Wallbang 35 Wallbang . Hopefully I'm on the other side of this issue, now Thumbsup .
And Lutz, thanks for sharing your gearbox failure, too.
The other night I was able to add the Bullfrog Snot, I let dry overnight, put the H-9 on the test track the next day and notice a loss in speed. Lost around 12 scale mph. Somewhere in the 5 pages of this build I mentioned about adding pick ups to the locomotive. I've been putting it off, hoping it wasn't something that was necesssary, but I think it's something I have to try to regain the speed loss. So, I sat down at the workbench tonight and came up some ideals on how to move forward with that installation. The locomotive side looks pretty straight forward. The tender side could be a little tricky. Bowser trucks are all metal with the only isolation from a short is the insulators in the wheelsets. So the tricky part is how to mount pickups for both sides of the truck without causing a short. Tomorrow night I might get into this and see if my idea will work Thumbsup . Ugh!
Got a little bit started on the pickups for the tender trucks last night. Here are some of the materials I will be using for the pickups. The bronze sheet on left was recommended to me years ago for pick up installation. I do not remember what it is called or even whom I purchased it from. On right is a thin sheet of styrene for making insulators(I later realized I had some thin styrene strips I ended up using) and in the back some .020 phosphorus bronze rod.
[Image: 20171130_204020_zpshtppcolm.jpg]

The tender trucks I have on this tender aren't the typical ones where they have the little bronze springs. Which is good because it gives me a place to try and land the the pickups.
[Image: 20171130_210611_zpsbyfjbrez.jpg]

I ended up cutting the bronze sheet with a Dremel tool into one long strip and then cutting off a small nib with a pair of pliers making this sitting next to the strip styrene.
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And here they are glued in place with some CA. Hope the CA won't react to the heat from the solder iron when I solder on the phosphorus rod and some wire.
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Let's see what tomorrow brings Thumbsup .
Just a quick post to show what my concept for a complete pickup looks like.
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Need to add one more to the other side of this truck and move onto the other. Hopefully will get to do that tonight. Schedule is pretty busy this time of year.
Finished off the pickup for the other side of the truck and reinstalled.
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I gave the locomotive a little test run and the pickups seem to be working Thumbsup . First time I ever installed a little rig up like this. Be moving on to other parts of the loco, later tonight and tomorrow.
December in our family is pretty much a blur with 2 birthdays, basketball practice for the kiddo, concerts with the kiddo, gift wrapping and of course Christmas hasn't given me much time to sit at the workbench and work on the H-9. Earlier in the month I was able to glue on some of the phosphorus bronze strips I cut from sheet of phosphorus bronze.
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And then it sat like this till after Christmas.

Yesterday, I solder on the phosphorus bronze rod. I had to remove the cover plate to bend the rod to the right angle.

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I soldered on the leader wires also, put the cover plate back on and ran the wire through the hole left by the screw i was using for the old pick up wire.
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I had to swap out the 3 pin connector I was using before and install a 4 pin connector from Minitronics. The left and right outer most will be for the newly installed pick ups(red & black wires). The inner two will be for the motor leads(orange and gray from the decoder).
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This is a shot of the complete installation of the new connector.
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By the way, when I do the solder connections, I tin the leads, and fold them over making two hooks. Then lock them together, solder and cover with shrink tube.

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Shrink tube is on red wire not in place yet.

I also installed the socket of the new 4 pin connector on the decoder/tender side. It does look like a rat nest but I will tuck it all away before I put the tender body back on.
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I have done a few test runs, and the pickups are working Thumbsup . I am nearly back at the top end speed I recorded earlier as 48 scale mph. I am at 43, now. I am going to change the way I did the pickups on the tender wheels from the phosphorus bronze rod to wipers made from a Kadee #5 spring. The rods seems to cause drag on the tender wheels. Found some ideas about that on a google search. Hopefully will get to that this weekend.
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