MWaz Get off your duff challenge
Doc, I’m not sure what your referring to about “magnets” on 3/24. I went back and checked that date and I don’t see anything mentioning that and I don’t recall doing anything with magnets. Am I missing something?

Sorry, mistake.  I was looking at Lutz' (Schraddel's) post of March 24.  In his photo 6th down, it appears as if he's used rare earth magnets as a drive shaft.

Next part of re-doing the pickups was turning up some 00-90 washers, 4 to be exact.

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Then solder some decoder wire to the washers. I made two with black wire and 2 with red wire. Here is an example of one of the black leads I soldered together.

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The I added them to the Keisel trucks.

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Bottom view:

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Here are the trucks installed on the base of the tender.

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I'm toying with an idea of using a NMRA 8 pin plug and socket for installing the decoder. Will see about that. I've been wanting to try that for a while.
I think today the socket for my DCC plug will be in the mail(maybe tomorrow). Over time, the leads on the TCS decoder I've been using have shortened up, so I sat down to today and removed the short old leads and soldered on new ones. I soldered back on new leads of about 4 inches.

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This is the underside of decoder with new leads solder on.

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Once the new leads were on, I tested them on my decoder checker.

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Everything tested OK Thumbsup  .

Found these on eBay and decided to give them a try.

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Here's a completed shot of the new plug installed to the wire harness.

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I wrapped electrical tape around decoder to protect the new solder connections.

Hopefully this will make a cleaner decoder install.
So, I've been wanting to get along with this decoder installation but I discovered I ran out of the shrink tube that I like to use. I use shrink tube from Miniatronics that comes in 10" lengths. Had to order some to continue.

Here is how the decoder and frame of tender sit after some double sided tape was used.

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I used this Loksound product with NMRA DCC socket and harness.

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With some styrene I made up this little mount to install the socket and harness

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I installed the mount on the rear of the tender and added some styrene tubing to help with wire management.

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I was able to re-install the Miniatronics 4 pin socket that connects with drive side of the locomotive.

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I do not have the lighting side of the decoder installation done. Maybe tomorrow night. When I tested the unit on the test track it tested good. And you can notice a big difference in sound with the use of the Bachmann trucks over the Bowser trucks. Much, much quieter.


I had a chance this morning to finish off lighting circuit again on the H9.

I used the same styrene round tubing to slip the Miniatronics 2 socket harness through for some wire management and glued(CA) it on top of the rectangular tubing I used for 4 socket harness.

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I substituted 4 nylon 2/56 screws for the brass ones that come with the kit to secure the base to the tender.

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And gave everything a test.

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I've been really impressed at how quiet the locomotive is now with the Bachmann trucks and the NWSL can motor. I still wish there was a little more top end speed, though. It's topping out at 47 scale mph. I think 60 would be a bit more where I'd like to be at.

I did notice today that I forgot to paint the new tender base black. Its suppose to be in the 50's over the weekend here so I might give it a shot then.

I'd like to give the H9 test up at the club to see how it preforms, too. Then figure out what to do next.
Moving on from all the work that went on with re-doing the drive mechanism and pick ups, it is time to start getting back to detailing the locomotive. It looks like I'm to working on the cab details. Other then the painting I already done in the cab, I want to add some window frames and glazing along with an engineer and fireman, along with the back plate. I started with windows this weekend giving Microscales' Micro Kristal Klear a try on the front cab windows.

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Following the direction and a online video I found on Youtube on how to apply the stuff, it was pretty easy. Here's a window with it first applied. Kind of looks like Elmer's glue.

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And after one dries.

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The other cab windows I'll do with clear styrene. I'd like to see if I can get the window to look like these. Drawing is from Steam Locomotive Encyclopedia.

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First, I cut the clear styrene to size and installed.

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Made a window frame.

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I used this size styrene for the window frame.

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Then added some Brunswick Green, but it whet on a little glumpy. When it dries I'll sand it down a bit and repaint it.

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Not sure yet how to do the window behind the completed one yet. Want to leave it open for the fireman.

Also, please excuse all the dust on the boiler. Things can get pretty dusty down in my basement. I'll clean the boiler up for the next installment.


It's so great to see this all coming together.
~~ Mikey KB3VBR (Admin)
~~ NARA Member # 75    
~~ Baldwin Eddystone Unofficial Website

~~ I wonder what that would look like in 1:20.3???
I ended up re-doing the window install to get rid of the lumpy paint. The engineer and fireman had their legs trimmed off to about their hips and sat on a block of scrap styrene to get them to sit in the windows the way I wanted. And finally I installed the backplate.

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Sometime during the build I discovered that one of the Cal-scale brake shoe details was causing a short and I removed it. I eventually removed all brake shoes and started looking for plastic ones. I ended up settling on these (I used the smaller 4. The larger brake shoes I will save for something with larger drivers):

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I had to fill the holes from the Cal-Scale brake shoes and used Milliput:

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I have used this stuff before and I forget where I learned of it, but what I like about is that when it hardens, it's hard as a rock and does not shrink. It will also hold threads if it needs to be tapped. Since I didn't know where the new holes were going to land, this seemed to be the right stuff.

I filed down the Milliput to clean up the overspread.

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I drilled out new holes and tapped out for 00-90 screws (I used hex head screws) and installed the new brake shoes. The Precision Scale Co. brake shoes needed to customized a bit for hex heads to fit, but I think they came out pretty good.

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Looks, like it's time for touch up, again, and re-assembly Thumbsup


Those look good, and eliminate the chance of a short. Applause Applause


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