Foam with a grade below the track question?
#1
Hi Guys,

I'm working on the foam below my track and have questions about what others are doing or should I just purchase the WS foam risers and not bother with this myself.

I'm trying to create a grade about 2°. When I cut the foam I'm not getting a even surface to run my track. I was thinking I could smooth out the surface with hydrocal or plaster or even sculptymold to get the smooth level grade for my track to run. I was thinking it shouldn't matter much as the cork will be on this surface and the track on that. As long as the grade done evenly the surface material shouldn't mater. CORRECT?

The other option I can purchase the WS foam risers and just use them. I would love to hear what others have done or are doing.

Dave
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#2
Hi Dave,

I've used plywood cookie cutter for sub-roadbed.

If you are going to be using a lot of Styrofoam you should probably get a hot wire foam cutter.

Then you can cut your own foam risers...

Here's a couple of things that you may find useful:

   

   
Ron Wm. Hurlbut
Toronto, Ontario, Dominion of Canada
Ontario Narrow Gauge Show
Humber Valley & Simcoe Railway Blog
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#3
Ron,
Thanks for the reply and the useful resources. I'm at a point now I need these resources.

One thing I learned today way the use of a layer of basswood over the foam to smooth the ruff cuts. Not a bad idea. It gives a surface to attach the track in a more secure way.

Dave
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#4
I use a bandsaw to cut mine, works pretty good with minimal sanding.



Cheers
Andy Kramer - modeling the Milwaukee Road in Wisconsin
The Milwaukee Road is alive and well and running in my basement
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#5
Are you working with horizontal curves as well as vertical? That makes it more difficult.
I've done a little bit by cutting across 2" foam with a hot wire. What I need for this is a pair of templates, for each side of the foam sheet, pinned to the foam. I haven't come up with anything for the horizontal to grade curve yet -- I think it needs to be larger radius than regular railway curves. The templates also have to be really smooth; even for straight cuts I have to be careful about the grain of the wood and joints between wood bits cause little (or big) jumps.

I gave up this time and just used WS risers, although there are some interesting grade changes even there.

First time I tried them, I "economised" by using 1/2" blue foam layers. Then I fund that the 1/2" was more like 9/16".

You can try to make transitions by flexing a thinner sheet of material between the horizontal and grade. A sharp change at the top can cause couplings on long cars to disengage.
David
Moderato ma non troppo
Perth & Exeter Railway Company
Esquesing & Chinguacousy Radial Railway
In model railroading, there are between six and two hundred ways of performing a given task.
Most modellers can get two of them to work.
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#6
I switched to using the WS riser/inclines years ago and would NEVER do it any other way now. WS is really great if the grade is on a curve or curves.
Mike

Sent from my pocket calculator using two tin cans and a string
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#7
I got a set of the WS foam risers but wow they are expensive. I may have to go that way just to ensure the trackwork is done well. I don't want to start with issues at this point.

Thanks.

Dave
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#8
You can also smooth out irregularities with a rasp.
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#9
Dave some things are well worth the price and for me those are one of those things.
Mike

Sent from my pocket calculator using two tin cans and a string
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#10
I was getting an order for more WS risers then I read a post on another forum. They had a great idea of putting the cut foam under a clean foam sheet for my incline. I tried this last. I gut and I think it will work great. The last step to getting this correct will be the transition from flat to incline and back to flat.

I'll post photos as soon as I get some.

Dave
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