Old Steamers
#76
Gary, after my post about the K4 cylinder chest I had to go down to the workroom to verify if I was remembering things correctly. Here's what I found...

The first cylinder chest I came across was in my parts box and it did not have the brass bushings, but is a K4/L1 cylinder chest.
[Image: 20180501_191616_zpsgfm8cen0.jpg]

Which made me look at a K4 kit I have down in the workroom. This one had the bushing.
[Image: 20180501_190038_zpsuyhyycp9.jpg]

So, I checked out all my Mikados, but none of them had the bushing. But the cylinder chests are identical. So, I looked at one more K4 I have. This time no bushing???
[Image: 20180501_185419_zpsuxsfqr1b.jpg]

Conclusion(maybe): I believe in the early 90's Bowser retooled they're castings (at least this should be true with they're boilers) to make them more prototypical and maybe the bushing represents a feature on a real K4. The cylinder chest you have maybe of a newer product run. On a Bowser I1 kit I have in the workroom I noticed the bushing on it's cylinder chest, and I know this kit is from the 90's. Other thought, maybe the bushings were installed on fouled castings of the cylinder chests. To replace a inaccurate hole. I understand this is less likely, but just a thought.


As far as removing the bushing, can you work at the bushing maybe with a pair of side cutters...Gently working and prying the bushing out. Worth a shot.
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#77
gna Wrote:Any advice on removal? I tried working an old #17 chisel blade around the bearing and prying, but not much luck.

I'd try gripping it with pliers or channel locks, and maybe give it a twist while pulling. That'll probably mar the brass somewhat, but a file and perhaps a little filler (solder would work well for the latter) should get it looking good again.

Wayne
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#78
doctorwayne Wrote:I'd try gripping it with pliers or channel locks, and maybe give it a twist while pulling. That'll probably mar the brass somewhat, but a file and perhaps a little filler (solder would work well for the latter) should get it looking good again.

Wayne
You were correct--a plier and twist pulled it out with minimal damage:

   

So it looks like they had a dimple for the hole but simply missed with the drill. So now I have to try and fill the hole. Styrene, solder, brass rod, JB Weld... whatever I pick, it will need to get partially drilled out.

twilight Wrote:Gary, after my post about the K4 cylinder chest I had to go down to the workroom to verify if I was remembering things correctly. Here's what I found...

The first cylinder chest I came across was in my parts box and it did not have the brass bushings, but is a K4/L1 cylinder chest.
[Image: 20180501_191616_zpsgfm8cen0.jpg]

Which made me look at a K4 kit I have down in the workroom. This one had the bushing.
[Image: 20180501_190038_zpsuyhyycp9.jpg]

So, I checked out all my Mikados, but none of them had the bushing. But the cylinder chests are identical. So, I looked at one more K4 I have. This time no bushing???
[Image: 20180501_185419_zpsuxsfqr1b.jpg]

Conclusion(maybe): I believe in the early 90's Bowser retooled they're castings (at least this should be true with they're boilers) to make them more prototypical and maybe the bushing represents a feature on a real K4. The cylinder chest you have maybe of a newer product run. On a Bowser I1 kit I have in the workroom I noticed the bushing on it's cylinder chest, and I know this kit is from the 90's. Other thought, maybe the bushings were installed on fouled castings of the cylinder chests. To replace a inaccurate hole. I understand this is less likely, but just a thought.


As far as removing the bushing, can you work at the bushing maybe with a pair of side cutters...Gently working and prying the bushing out. Worth a shot.

Thanks for the info. I'm puzzled. This kit has a brass frame and a lead boiler, which I think means it's an older kit. The instructions are wordy, with almost no pictures:

   

There's no date on them , but I'm guessing it's from the ''80s or even the 70s.
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#79
gna Wrote:So it looks like they had a dimple for the hole but simply missed with the drill. So now I have to try and fill the hole. Styrene, solder, brass rod, JB Weld... whatever I pick, it will need to get partially drilled out.

Boy, they certainly made a mess of that! Crazy

I think that if you simply fill the hole and then try to re-drill, regardless of the material you choose for the filler, the bit will wander off-course. If possible, it might be better to drill the hole considerably larger to take in all of the existing holes. You'll end up with a big off-centre hole that can be filled with brass rod or a brass screw of suitable diameter, which can then be drilled to accept the bushing in its proper place.

Wayne
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#80
I sent an email to Bowser asking for advice.

I could just buy the one on eBay that Mark referred to. I also note that Bowser has new ones in stock.
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#81
How did you make out with your email to Bowser?
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#82
No reply. Sad
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#83
I resent my email to Bowser, but no reply.   Angry  I filled the hole with JB Weld, and asked the guys in the machine shop at work what we could do.  When they have time they said they could try putting it in a vise and using a drill press, but they weren't sure how well it would work.  I decided to just order the part from eBay and get on with my life.

In the meantime, I tried a wirebrush in my Dremel tool and removed the blackening on the treads on the tender trucks that were giving me trouble.  Success!  Solved the pickup and running problems.

I've also been stripping the paint from this old favorite:

   

   

I replaced the old magnet with supermagnets and lubed the motor:

   

I'm thinking of installing a small decoder in the cab and trying a keep alive.  

I also have something else I can pickup Thursday...
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#84
Glenn, thanks for your update with Bowser. On just one occasion, I was able to communicate via phone call with some one at Bowser about a brass frame I had that the solder joints gave out on. Also, I used to buy a lot of steam locomotive parts from them at one time(in quanity) to justify the exorbitant shipping price. I just had a hard time wrapping my head around purchasing a $3 part and being hit with a $9 flat fee for shipping. So, I would make a list up for the parts I needed for other kits I had and once I got to a certain number I would make the order. But, I haven't purchased anything from them in a long time.
One of my LHS owners used to refer to a woman that worked there as Ma Bowser. I got to speak with her a couple times. She could be a real joy.

Unfortunately, for guys like you and me who still enjoy fussing around with these old Bowser kits, Bowser has all but closed the door on us. Not sure if you ever saw any of Bowser's emails about they're "fire sales", they were having last year, but they were trying to liquidate all the steam locomotive parts. I think the last email was to sell all remaining steam locomotive stock at one bulk price(I'd have to run through my old emails though to make sure I'm remembering that correctly).

Also Glen, I've had good results with TCS decoders with "keep alive" circuitry.

Interested in seeing the next project.
 
Mark
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#85
Just checked my emails. Bowser was looking to sell off old stock parts for Mantua, Athearn, AHM, and others, not they're own Bowser steam locomotive parts.

Mark
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#86
I just ordered a worm gear and shaft from them for a M1 brass mountain.
They sent the wrong part, I emailed them with pictures of what they had sent .
I got a sorry email and was sent the correct part.
The original email was from Lee English, he was kind enough to tell what part I needed.
Are you Shure you are using the correct email address ?
TC
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#87
(05-23-2018, 07:07 AM)T.C. Wrote: I just ordered a worm gear and shaft from them for a M1 brass mountain.
They sent the wrong part, I emailed them with pictures of what they had sent .
I got a sorry email and was sent the correct part.
The original email was from Lee English, he was kind enough to tell what part I needed.
Are you Shure you are using the correct email address ?
TC

I used bowser@bowser-trains.com
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#88
Your link didn't work for me ?
Try this one http://www.bowser-trains.com/
I know it works as I just used it.
Hope this helps T.C.
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#89
(05-24-2018, 10:36 AM)T.C. Wrote: Your link didn't work for me ?
Try this one  http://www.bowser-trains.com/
I know it works as I just used it.
Hope this helps T.C.

That's the website for Bowser.  If you click on it, then click on "Contact Us," it brings up two email addresses, one of which is the one I referenced above.  I suppose I could try the other one, which is sales...
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#90
This is the address that returned my email
sales@bowser-trains.com
Gerry Selleck
Sales and Marketing
Bowser MFG Co Inc
Hope this helps ?
TC
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