Freelance 2018-1

[faraway]

If you're using Atlas rail joiners, the fret to which they're attached is also nickel silver. If you trim it, then tin it and the top of the rail, you should be able to solder it in place. That should bring the rail's top up to where it should be.

Wayne

The Atlas rail joiners are extreme weak and forgiving objects but I assume (will see when I have them in front of me) that the rail head of a code 100 rail is higher than the rail head of a code 83. I intend to sand the code 100 crossing at the bottom (the plastic part) down until the rail heads are at the same level. right?
Than cut the old one out (Dremel cutting wheel), drop the new one in and solder it (with or without rail joiners). I assume the code 100 crossing has exactly the same dimensions as the code 83?
The new one will arrive mid/end next week. I will report back here.

[doctorwayne]

I was referring to the flat piece of nickel silver to which the rail joiners are attached, when you get them in a package. After the joiners are separated from that piece, you could use it as a shim by soldering it onto the top of the low rail.

If that piece is no longer part of that package, send me an e-mail with your mailing address, and I'll send you some. These strips of nickel silver are about .005" in thickness, and .125" wide, and are also useful as electrical contacts and axle wipers.

Wayne

[faraway]

I hope to solder the new crossing without any further mechanical support in place "if" the old and the new one have a perfect fit the rail heads are at the same height. There should be close to no mechanical tension requiring more then a soldering rail to rail butt.

[Brakie]

Probably overlooked because they're $12 each! I have 9 that I intend to use and wasn't too thrilled spending $100 on non operating switch stands.

The way I see it with today's high detail cars and locomotives on highly detailed ISLs another few bucks won't hurt.

All of my 18 wheelers cost $14-18.00 from Trucks n Stuff because I want trucking names like Crete, Landstar, Ranger, Schneider, Werner, Knight,Yellow Freight etc. in order to enhance realism.

[Rscott417]

The way I see it with today's high detail cars and locomotives on highly detailed ISLs another few bucks won't hurt.

All of my 18 wheelers cost $14-18.00 from Trucks n Stuff because I want trucking names like Crete, Landstar, Ranger, Schneider, Werner, Knight,Yellow Freight etc. in order to enhance realism.

I guess it all depends where someone is willing to spend their money. For $12 NJ international could've at least made it a 2 pack especially when you can get 3 switch stands from details west for half the price. I still spent the money on them but it adds up to more than "another few bucks" which is why I said they're probably overlooked. As far as trucks go, between a commercially available kit to start with plus resin cabs, custom made decals and detail parts I end up spending close to $50 a truck. I like building realistic trucks and willing to spend money on them.

[faraway]

Took care of the ground cover and migrated it from Miami Beach to Miami Westgate








and some fences

[Brakie]

Reinhard, Before I forget it again your abandon spur is a excellent detail touch that most modern ISL lack.

[faraway]

Larry, I got the idea after the tracks had been laid. The dead track is the natural extension of the mainline. An Atlas switch would have ruined the 90° curve so became the track a dead track.

I built a little facility for unloading tank cars and covered hoppers. It is absolute freelance to be used for those two very different cars but has some likeness with tank car and covered hopper unloading installations. It opens a more flexible operation for a dual use track on my small switching layout.

I should do some black hoses made from soft solder wire easy to bend in position.

[Rscott417]

Niiiice

[shortliner]

Very nice indeed - your Tank car Unloading has given me an idea - Oh and by the way soft resin cored solder inside the smallest diameter black heat-shrink tubing makes excellent hoses for what you need
Best
Jack

[faraway]

V.... soft resin cored solder inside the smallest diameter black heat-shrink tubing makes excellent hoses for what you need

That's it! I planned to use black painted solder knowing it might be a little thin but with the shrink tubing you suggest is it perfect. Thanks for pushing me in the right direction.

[faraway]

The 19° Atlas code 100 crossing arrived 5 minutes ago. It is a 1:1 replacement part for the code 83 crossing. The rails are higher but the plastic base/tie are lower. The resulting height of the the rail top is the same.
But the crossing is black and even more robust constructed. It really looks like a toy track for a toddler..... the old one is damaged but all engines except a SD70ACE master it (with some unhealthy noise). I have to make up my mind if I go through the replacement hassle to gain the ability to switch two stub tracks with a SD70ACE.

The brown code 83 at the bottom and the black code 100 on top.



For comparison a Tillig crossing as I used it on my German layout

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[faraway]

Some details to the streets added

[shortliner]

V.... soft resin cored solder inside the smallest diameter black heat-shrink tubing makes excellent hoses for what you need

That's it! I planned to use black painted solder knowing it might be a little thin but with the shrink tubing you suggest is it perfect. Thanks for pushing me in the right direction.

No problem - I like to help when I can - Can you tell me what you use for the piping runs and stopcocks for the unloading racks? Thanks

[faraway]

They are kit bashed from the Walthers kits 933-3105 and 933-3113
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