To file or not to file?

[nomad]

Well, I found out what I was doing wrong
I was plugging the iron in, using it then unplugging it again to save electricity. The iron wasn't getting hot enough. Once I left it plugged in until I was done, the oxidation burned off, I have a nice shiny tip and the iron is working the way it is supposed to
This is one time when being frugal doesn't pay.

Loren

[ocalicreek]

Just read through the thread. I've got a little adjustable Weller with a nice depression in the stand for a sponge (included). Micro-mark, once again!

Anyway, I can attest to the troubles Loren is having. For me the issue was just not letting it get hot enough. I think it will take me a while to figure out where to set it for the best results (then making a mark on the dial face to remember it!) using the particular solder I've got. It's nothing fancy, just Radio Shack Resin Core. Flux does help a heap, as has been said already.

But really, a good hot iron is like a good sharp Xacto blade - there really is no substitute and a dull blade, like an almost-hot iron, will most likely injure you or do some damage to your work eventually.

Glad you got it working, Loren!

Galen

[nomad]

Me to ! I am still using the old tip until I can find a new one. The place where I bought the iron doesn't sell tips ( Home Depot ) :o . I quess they want you to buy a new iron every time. :?

Loren

[nomad]

Well, I found a new tip ( Ace Hardware ). I have been using it for about a week and pampering it like it was my first car. I even found this web site

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.elexp.com/t_solder.htm">http://www.elexp.com/t_solder.htm</a><!-- m -->

And did everything I was supposed before I even plugged the iron in. It looks and works like it is brand new. Until tonight when I noticed a hole in the tip, about the size of a pin head. The tip is still tinned good and works great, but this is when the old tip started going downhill. Any idea where the hole comes from ?

Loren

[doctorwayne]

China?

Wayne

[nomad]

Could be Doc, could be

Loren

[Russ Bellinis]

I haven't been to the "Engineer's Technical Workshop" in quite a while, but today I'm suffering from a cold so I'm looking through forums I don't always have time to peruse. This is an old thread, but I think this bit of info is important to share. In California they are trying to get rid of lead in everything. The last time I looked at solder in a Home Depot, they had gone lead free, and the lead free solder was 95/5. 95/5 is 95% tin and 5% antimony if I remember correctly (might be the other way around). It needs to be heated about 200 or 250 degrees hotter than lead solders. We used 95/5 in refrigeration work because it is much stronger than 50/50 or 40/60. Occasionally I would come across a refrigeration unit that had been repaired by a plumber, and the discharge line would be blown right off the unit. It had a good solder connection, but the solder was not strong enough to handle the pressure. I hardwired a motor in an Athearn that I donated to the modular club for use pulling our track cleaner cars around the layout. When the club went to dcc, one of the guys needed to rewire to isolate the motor from the frame. He asked me what I had used for solder? None of his usual soldering irons would melt it! He ended up alloying the solder with other softer solders to get the wires apart. If the Home Depot or other big box home improvement store has discontinued the lead based solders and switched to 95/5, or the even newer silver bearing solders, you will need a soldering gun or a really big iron to get the solder hot enough. The last time I looked, Grainger still carried 50/50 and 40/60.

[nomad]

So, how hot we talking, Russ? I am using a 40 watt iron that is supposed to heat to 600 degrees.

Loren

[nomad]

I finally bought and wore out every Weller tip available in this area. Apparently, the tips have holes in them for some reason. Using the iron like I was every night, the tips only last about a week (about 14/18 hours total.) I bought this iron at Radio Shack <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062738">http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062738</a><!-- m --> that has a solid tip. I have used the tip on this one about 30 hours so far wiring the layout and building turnouts and it's still going. And, the iron was half the price of the Weller and replacement tips are cheaper too.

Loren

[Russ Bellinis]

So, how hot we talking, Russ? I am using a 40 watt iron that is supposed to heat to 600 degrees.

Loren

I think the number is about 750 degrees, but I don't remember for sure. What you really want is 40/60 which is an electrical solder. I suspect Radio Shack sells 40/60 in thin wire for electronic work.

[nomad]

Right. That is what I use, Russ.

Loren

[torikoos]

I concur with Woodone here, keep using a wet sponge, and religiously wipe the tip clean of the iron regularly while soldering, at least once every 5-6 solders if not more often. Especially if you use solder with a slightly acidic flux, this can 'eat' the tip over time, in any case, try to avoid filing plated tips, it will work for a bit, but ultimately will deteriorate the tip even faster.

Loren:
Try keeping the tip clean. I use a sponge that has been wet with water. Wipe it off before each use. There is also a tip cleaner that you might want to try, not real sure of the correct name might be called tip saver or tip cleaner. Try some place that has soldering equipment and I think you will find it.
BTW I solder every day doing DCC installs. I just replaced my firt tip the other day. It lasted almost a full year before I had to replace it. You can also use a paper towel ( wet with water and a little soap detergent) to wipe the tip after (and) before each use. ALSO if you have a adjustable temp soldering station try to keep the heat down. This will save the tip too.

[doctorwayne]

Hi torikoos, and to Big Blue.

Wayne

[tetters]

I also agree with the advice to keep the tip clean. Clean it often, like after every several joints. I don't use a wet sponge, I just dip the tip into my big jar of acid flux ( I use plumbers flux for good mechanical joints on my track work. ) and then wipe it on a roll of paper towels I keep handy. I also re-tin the tip with solder often as well depending on how long I've been using the iron during a particular work "session". Keeps the tip nice and shiny and helps to prolong the life of the tips. I've had tips last for several months and used for hundreds if not in the thousands of soldered track work joints.



Any excuse to post a picture of this bad boy again.

I concur with Woodone here, keep using a wet sponge, and religiously wipe the tip clean of the iron regularly while soldering, at least once every 5-6 solders if not more often. Especially if you use solder with a slightly acidic flux, this can 'eat' the tip over time, in any case, try to avoid filing plated tips, it will work for a bit, but ultimately will deteriorate the tip even faster.

Loren:
Try keeping the tip clean. I use a sponge that has been wet with water. Wipe it off before each use. There is also a tip cleaner that you might want to try, not real sure of the correct name might be called tip saver or tip cleaner. Try some place that has soldering equipment and I think you will find it.
BTW I solder every day doing DCC installs. I just replaced my firt tip the other day. It lasted almost a full year before I had to replace it. You can also use a paper towel ( wet with water and a little soap detergent) to wipe the tip after (and) before each use. ALSO if you have a adjustable temp soldering station try to keep the heat down. This will save the tip too.

[torikoos]

Thank you! :-)

I'm Enjoying big blue, especially love the 'how to's' , more please :-)

Hi torikoos, and to Big Blue.

Wayne