Please tell me how this looks. It is an experiment in creating a partially rusted out panel on a 1/64 car for the junk yard. This is a hot wheels duece roadster, the rear inner fender panel was taken out with a dremel & an aluminum panel put in. The panel is made of a disposable aluminum baking tin, I pierced it in several spots with a needle , then dripped ferric chloride( Archer brand circut board etchant ) on it. The overall body rust was achieved with Floquil rust that had a mix of baking soda & powered brown chalk sprinkled on it while still wet.
I am thinking that this might be useful on some of my junkyard cars----- provided it does look real according to some of you guys-- after all , some of you are the best modelers around.
I had intended to make a partially built hot rod out of this duece roadster-- built in the WORST example of a hot rod ever made -- botched up frame , a completely UNSPRUNG front axle, probably a flathead straight eight motor , really a POS deathtraop, that somebody gave up on halfway done & probably that saved their life . I can't do that because the Hot Wheels duece is WAY smaller than 1/64th & just won't look right in the yard. It is just a bit bigger than HO to tell the truth!! RATS!!!!
[
attachment=2681]
[
attachment=2680]
[
attachment=2679]
Pretty nice
Three comments:
1) It looks too "tan" to me. I have a rust spot on the fender of my car (I know - I gotta replace that quarter panel when the weather cools off), and the color is darker, and redder. But, I have never been successful in getting the "rust" color correct in my own modeling - so maybe my eye is off or my standard is too high
2) the texture is nice, but too coarse and uniform. I typically see a uniform fine texture over a surface, with coarser texture only in spots (typically near where panels meet - water/salt gets between the two panels and causes them to bubble).
3) the "eroded" inner fender is quite nice.
I think it looks great, but I suggest you cut down on the white (baking soda?). In some areas, its just way too white on the side, especially seen in the 1st pic. Other than that, she looks like she could use a restoration!
viperman Wrote:I think it looks great, but I suggest you cut down on the white (baking soda?). In some areas, its just way too white on the side, especially seen in the 1st pic. Other than that, she looks like she could use a restoration!
Viperman , the white is reflection of the flash & as such only an illusion.
Nachoman ---actually the only part I was really interested in how it turned out IS the inner panel .
tomustang -- Thanks.
The experiment continues. I found this site that has a lot of junk cars on it. <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.oldride.com/community/galleries/391833729.html">http://www.oldride.com/community/galler ... 33729.html</a><!-- m -->
I found a LOT of cars that were almost completely covered with rust, I decided to try some like that. Here are a couple that I have started to try this on. these are only partially done , testing methods . one thing I think I proved-- don't try this with RED cars. The Merc is one I have had around for years-- notice the windows-- they are completely crazed --- all by themselves --- perfect for a junk car but I know I could NOT do that if I wanted to !!
[
attachment=2731]
[
attachment=2730]
[
attachment=2729]
The green one looks too much like mud. You're not just going to get an even coating like that. Rust causes pitting, and usually in clusters.
I think what is lacking is the suggestion of depth. Rust is textured, and in order to show texture, you must have shadows and variations in color. Try putting on a layer of black paint, followed by dark brown, then a final layer of lighter rust color. Let it all dry completely, and then go back with a stiff-bristled brush and some thinner and begin scraping away layers. Not only will this give a tri-color effect, but it will create actual texture as the layers of paint react to the thinner.
I think the green car is pretty convincing, especially the sun visor panels and the roof.
Ralph
I know that I need more work on these-- this is a first trial at something with this much surface rusted. However take a look at these pics. to see that sometimes there is not a lot of pitting & texture.
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.oldride.com/community/galleries/633452713.html">http://www.oldride.com/community/galler ... 52713.html</a><!-- m -->
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.oldride.com/community/galleries/757792099.html">http://www.oldride.com/community/galler ... 92099.html</a><!-- m -->
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.oldride.com/community/galleries/612341933.html">http://www.oldride.com/community/galler ... 41933.html</a><!-- m -->
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.oldride.com/community/galleries/490126822.html">http://www.oldride.com/community/galler ... 26822.html</a><!-- m -->
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.oldride.com/community/galleries/176252047.html">http://www.oldride.com/community/galler ... 52047.html</a><!-- m -->
2-8-2 Wrote:I think what is lacking is the suggestion of depth. Rust is textured, and in order to show texture, you must have shadows and variations in color. Try putting on a layer of black paint, followed by dark brown, then a final layer of lighter rust color. Let it all dry completely, and then go back with a stiff-bristled brush and some thinner and begin scraping away layers. Not only will this give a tri-color effect, but it will create actual texture as the layers of paint react to the thinner.
I have been thinking of trying something on that order. I want to get the effect seen when sun exposure eats the paint thru to the primer in spots & then thru the primer to the metal. there is always a splotchy & "feathered' look to it.
Thanks for the tips on how to approach it.
One of the founding members of the Lake County Model Railroad Club, had a "process" for modeling "prototype". He would take a color picture of the "subject", to use as a guide in building, and painting. He would then take color slides of the model, and project them up on his kitchen wall, and "pick all the nits". He would use his list of "nits" to make all the corrections, and then take another set of color slides. The thought here is each time, he would find the "next smaller, less noticeable, mistakes. The process would be repeated until he was happy with the results. The results, needless to say, were spectacular! He always knew where the "uncorrected errors" were, but he was satisfied with the model, and those went unfixed.
The only real test of how good a model looks is, do you like it? The above "process" can help eliminate the "obvious", and leave a model that you like. One man's rust, is another man's overoxidation.
