Good Day All!

I was wondering if any of the fine folks here on the guage can point me in the direction of a supplier who carries scale size nut and bolt details.

I found one on-line dealer so far. http://www.scalehardware.com/

They have some pretty decent brass and nickel plated nut, bolts and threaded detail parts. Some fairly small sizes that could pass for 1" or 2" nut and bolt details at pretty reasonable prices too.

Just curious if any of the scratch building gurus here have a reliable source for this kind of stuff.

Thanks a bunch!

Ho in plastic Grandt line, Tichy Train Group also belive they do O and N (not shure ).
jim

As Jim notes, Grandt Line and Tichy are good sources, and Precision Scale also offers them, in brass or plastic. I prefer the brass ones only for working on brass models, and the plastic ones for all other construction. If you're planning on using them on wood construction, such as a wharf, you'll probably want to have a set of suitably-sized drill bits, too. On styrene construction, you can use only the nbw part, removing the mounting post, then simply cementing them in place with a touch of solvent cement. I still prefer to drill holes for them, though.

I used some to detail my Atlas water towers (had to drill for the brass tie rods anyway):
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And a few for the supports for the crossing watchman's tower:
[album]1020[/album]

And I thought that I had used them on the support structure of the teamtrack loading ramps, but apparently not. :oops: : Oh well, at least there are a few holding the timber in place along the edge of the deck - wouldn't want someone's new car (or tractor) rolling off the edge, would we?
[album]960[/album]

Wayne

LOL!!! Better hope the building inspector doesn't take a closer look at that ramp there Wayne.

I have used the kadee pewter ones before, and plastic ones by grandt. I like the kadee metal ones best, but they only come in one large size and sometimes I need something smaller. The small plastic ones are difficult to distinguish from a blob of plastic one the model is completed, and sometimes I wonder why I bother. I even have good eyesight !. But, they will show up in photos, so I still add them at least to places where they will appear obvious. Also be careful with the small plastic ones - too much glue and they will turn into a blob, and the slightest bump will flatten them into something that looks more like a rivet than a NBW.

I will probably start using the precision scale ones the next time I have to buy more, as the LHS that is now closest to me stocks mostly PSC parts.

nachoman Wrote:Also be careful with the small plastic ones - too much glue and they will turn into a blob, and the slightest bump will flatten them into something that looks more like a rivet than a NBW.

The trick to using solvent type "glue", is controlling the amount. I use several different brushes to apply solvents. Something like a Floquil 4/0,or 5/0 brush for NBW castings. Yes, you have to move quickly from the bottle to the NBW, or the solvent will evaporate from the brush before it gets to the casting. (I use MEK...Methyl Ethyl Ketone)

I'm a pre-driller, so mine almost never turn into blobs since the glue is actually in the hole behind it (being o-scale also helps!). One camp (I get the impression Kevin is in this camp) cut them off flush and glue them on...the other camp (myself included), pre-drill holes and use the sprue as a bold.

Grandt Line is first and foremost a 1/4" company...as Cliff Grandt as an On3 modeler...so I'd guess that their best selection is O-scale. But as has been mentioned already, they also have plenty of HO parts. These things don't know what scale they are...but their importance grows as the scale grows.

Here's a couple of my cars that were built with the pre-drill method using either Grandt #1s or #15s...the ones with washers on wood, the ones without on metal:

You can see the "bolt heads" on the inside of the boards. I cut them flush after the glue has dried.

Archer Surface Details, decals:
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.archertransfers.com/catSurfaceDetails.html">http://www.archertransfers.com/catSurfaceDetails.html</a><!-- m -->

Thanks for the suggestions to check out Grandt Line. It looks like they have pretty much what I'm looking for.

jbaakko Wrote:Archer Surface Details, decals:
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.archertransfers.com/catSurfaceDetails.html">http://www.archertransfers.com/catSurfaceDetails.html</a><!-- m -->

Ok, so those are the resin rivets that I've been intending to research for some of my projects. Thanks for the link!

doctorwayne Wrote:As Jim notes, Grandt Line and Tichy are good sources, and Precision Scale also offers them, in brass or plastic. I prefer the brass ones only for working on brass models, and the plastic ones for all other construction. If you're planning on using them on wood construction, such as a wharf, you'll probably want to have a set of suitably-sized drill bits, too. On styrene construction, you can use only the nbw part, removing the mounting post, then simply cementing them in place with a touch of solvent cement. I still prefer to drill holes for them, though.


Wayne

thanks Doc forgot about precision , also i also pre-drill seemes easer for me to get them lined up . also FYI Tichy also has splice strips with the bolt heads cast in to them (item #8185 &8186) , they also offer star washers and rivet's .020 is the smallest .
jim

Here is a bunch of Precision Scales plastic castings on a log car. I drilled for these & put them on with CA because they were going into wood or brass. There are 34 of them on each car & I built 20 cars---- NEVER again !!

[attachment=2761]

nkp_174 Wrote:

jbaakko Wrote:Archer Surface Details, decals:
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.archertransfers.com/catSurfaceDetails.html">http://www.archertransfers.com/catSurfaceDetails.html</a><!-- m -->

Ok, so those are the resin rivets that I've been intending to research for some of my projects. Thanks for the link!

You're welcome. I've intended on buying the weld beads and testing them on some Atlas covered hoppers (which are conveniently missing all weld beads!).