Just wondering how often folks lubricate (or service) their locos? In my case I'm thinking of my HO and (similar scale 00) British locos.

Usually, I just place 1-2 small drops of Wahl oil or Labelle Oil on the gears that are visible on the bottom of the loco. Sometimes, I will place some white grease (that I bought at a railway LHS) inside on the gears. A different LHS charges $20 to $25 to lubricate locos -- is this worth it as I'm sure I could do most of this myself? I have 1-2 locos that are difficult to service (because they're older or are tender-drive) that I take to this LHS for servicing. But otherwise, I usually I lubricate them myself as above.

Thanks,
Rob

Grease is for gears, oil for bearings... at least that's what I was always told.

So I do as you do Rob... tiny bit of plastic compatible grease on the gearing inside, and use a pin to transfer a drop to the bearings on each axel.

I don't generally do this more than once every couple of years. I generally see how the loco performs when new, after a bit of a break in, and then also see what the manufacturer recommends.

John Pryke wrote a couple of really good steamer maintenance articles for MR in the late '90s (?).

EDIT - the maintenance article was actually in Sept 2003, and also is included in his Kalmbach book "Steam Locomotives and Project Ideas". <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://index.mrmag.com/tm.exe?opt=I&MAG=BOOK&MO=9&YR=2003&output=3&sort=A">http://index.mrmag.com/tm.exe?opt=I&MAG ... t=3&sort=A</a><!-- m -->

Andrew

These are what I use to lube my locos with. For less than $20, you could probably do them yourself. As you can see, I've had these quite a long time. I've even used them on a tag sale slot cars to get them running, for the grandkids.
[attachment=3044]
Once a year I'll take one or two of my locos apart and clean and lube them. Maybe a shorter time for my favorites and I run all the time.
I usually place a drop of the 108 on the motor bushings, and bushings on the ends of the cranks of my steamers.(easy..as I only have two), and a small blob of the 106 on the gears.

Thanks, Andrew and Eightyeightfan.

That's pretty much what I do as I have the same LaBelle products.

I've also heard that it's better for a loco to be under-lubricated rather than over-lubricated.

The reason I asked this question was because I recently took one of my older locos into this LHS for repairs. When repairing it, they said (to my surprise) that the loco's motor was very dry and it had already been lubricated just months earlier. I was surprised that the engine had dried out so quickly.

So I'll continue to lubricate my locos as described except for the more complicated ones (especially the tender drives or any delicate, old ones). Every now and then some of my old Hornby Dublo locos (from the 1960s) will start sounding louder & noisier, and then I figure it's time to add a drop of Labelle Oil or Wahl Oil.

Thanks again,
Rob

I use a tiny drop of oil on my gears,drive shafts,flywheel shaft and bushings..I then turn the motor by hand using the flywheel in order to work the oil on the gears.

I avoid grease-in fact I won't use it at all.

The only rule I follow is, when it is time to lubricate gears and bearings, thoroughly clean them first. My HOn3 2-4-4-2 ran more than any other ( all day at the train shows) Every second show (or about 32 hours run time), it was disassembled, cleaned, and lubricated. It is still running well 20 years of use, later.
If cleaning isn't done, dust, plastic, and metal, worn off the parts, collects in the lubricant and it becomes an abrasive paste.
In the cleaning process, where possible (I don't disassemble can motors) excess carbon is removed from between the commutator plates of the motors. That buildup can eventually short out the commutator, and the motor will first lose power and eventually cease to run.

I am a light user of my engines. Each one of them gets a total of about 2 hours use a year, some less. As your engine roster increases, that number will drop.

Personally, I would want to open up an engine every five years and clean and lube.

I believe that grease is a safe, stay-put, lube for gears, and a little goes a long way. For the outer, visible, stuff that I can see on my steamers when they are inverted, I use Dextron III automatic transmission fluid. A chemical engineer over on Model Railroad forums explained the stuff to the membership back in 2005, and it made sense. The stuff doesn't wander, is plastics and paint compatible, and it has tremendous shear strength. I have used it successfully for going on four years now and have no 'issues' with my running gear. Like anything else, a little goes a long way, and a quarter cup of the stuff should last the typical user a lifetime.

-Crandell

MasonJar Wrote:Grease is for gears, oil for bearings... at least that's what I was always told.

Sounds backwards

Crankshaft Bearings = Grease

Automotive Gear, Transmissions = Oil

Transfer Cases = Oil

Roller bearings = Packed Grease


Case of "oil or grease" is about ease of use. Use grease for open applications, use oil for sealed units, but you can use either for anything

Rob: some of your Hornby Dublo (and maybe old TriAng) will have a little pad in a box at one end of the motor (near the worm). This can take several drops of oil. The bearing point at the other end can take the smallest drop of oil on the end of a toothpick.
I always use Labelle's plastic compatible oil and grease, even on all metal parts. I don't oil the newer bits all that often, but those tender drives and the diesel pancake motors (the ones that are a single unit) start to screech when they're dry. They need a drop on the ends of the motor shaft.
For the time taken, $20 for lubricating and inspection is reasonable but it's money you could keep by doing it yourself. At the moment, I trust myself to take a British prototype apart more than most of the LHS in America.

BR60103 Wrote:Rob: some of your Hornby Dublo (and maybe old TriAng) will have a little pad in a box at one end of the motor (near the worm). This can take several drops of oil. The bearing point at the other end can take the smallest drop of oil on the end of a toothpick.
I always use Labelle's plastic compatible oil and grease, even on all metal parts. I don't oil the newer bits all that often, but those tender drives and the diesel pancake motors (the ones that are a single unit) start to screech when they're dry. They need a drop on the ends of the motor shaft.
For the time taken, $20 for lubricating and inspection is reasonable but it's money you could keep by doing it yourself. At the moment, I trust myself to take a British prototype apart more than most of the LHS in America.

Thanks, David. FYI, the LHS I use (Hornet Hobbies) has a repair who knows Dublo and Triang locos inside and out. He's British himself and has worked on them & used them for decades. So I really trust them. The Credit Valley Railway Co. in Streetsville is also pretty knowledgeable re Hornby and Triang.

Otherwise, I wouldn't really trust other LHS's for fixing a Triang or Dublo loco, not even George's, simply because (as you imply) they're not familiar with British models. I've already received some incorrect/misleading advice from them re Triang locos!

Take care, Rob

I use the ATF for light oil , on gears I use a anit seize called silver goop thinned down with 96% alcohol and painted on leaves a very thin layer.
jim

I would try to do it myself to be honest. Its not nearly as difficult as it looks. Just keep track of where each part goes, and keep them separated. Just a few days ago i was tearing down my locomotives to their base components and checking everything. I had on Athearn GP38-2 down to even it's motor armatures. I gave everything a good polishing, and washed the gears, wheels, and bearings down with 91% alcohol and an old tooth brush. I cut the commutator springs a little bit, and then i put it all back together with a little drop of Labelle 102 in all the brass bearings, and labelle 106 on the gears.


the thing runs so smooth, even at slow speeds, that it is absolutely amazing, and its a far cry from what it was. It definitely fixed all the issues i was having with it. probably the only thing left to replace are the steel wheels, which tarnish and dirty way to fast. NWSL makes nickel silver ones, if i have have the money to spare.

in any event, its not to difficult to take model apart to check for flash, clean, and re-oil. its tedious, but if you keep everything organized and clean, you can probably pump out a locomotive in 45-90 minutes.

The Northwest Shortline replacement wheels are only nickle silver plating on brass, and they have been known to have the plating flake off. A better replacement wheel set for Athearn are those made by Jay Bee. They are solid nickle silver. I did a Google search on Jay Bee Bennet Enterprises, and found numerous listing of companies that carry their products including Walthers, but I didn't find a web site listing for them. I didn't look past the third page, so it may have been farther down, or they may just not bother with a web page. Interestingly, I bought all of the remaining sets of Jay Bee wheels from the "Original Whistle Stop" in Pasadena a few years ago, and was told that Jay Bee had gone out of business and that those wheel sets in stock were the last that the "OWS" would be able to get. I presumed that the guy I was talking to knew what he was talking about until I went to the National Train Show at the NMRA Convention in 2008 in Anaheim and actually met the folks who run Jay Bee Enterprises. Like so many model railroad manufacturers Jay Bee is a small family run company that makes a high quality product.