Ok i want to take my modeling a step further id like to hand lay my own track and i know some of us here have tried and done. So heres my question what do i need to get the job done? Any info would be great as i and any one else thinking the same would like to hear As for those that like rivit counting or just like detail heres a site for you <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.proto87.com/">http://www.proto87.com/</a><!-- m -->

first and foremost, in my opinion you can get better looking trackwork by using some of the high-end flextrack from micro-engineering. Properly weathered, it will look better than most handlaid track, unless you are going for early trackwork without tie plates. Second, handlaying does not really save money, especially if you factor in time. Turnouts can be made cheaper if you don't buy a jig, and can be made to work better with a little practice. I figure if I used prefab track for my 4x8 layout, I probably would have only spent 100 dollars more for materials. The complication in my case was the dual gauge track.

That said, handlaying track is a fun skill to learn, and rewarding when you get it all done. You have the option of spiking to wooden ties, or soldering to PC ties. Some basic tools you will need are 3-4 3-point gauges, an NMRA gauge, a good pair of needlenose pliers for the spiking, files, flush cutting rail cutters, and lots of patience. Your subroadbed will need to be sturdy - foam won't cut it. Many people prefer homasote roadbed to spike into, others like to use clear pine boards, and some (including myself) have gotten by with just cork roadbed. This is definitely a skill that takes practice and can be extremely frustrating at first. I found I had to re-lay many of my curves because it was difficult to keep them in gauge as I was spiking. The smaller the rail is, the more it can move on you. Code 55 is much trickier than code 70. I have learned a few techniques along the way. One is that I had to pre-drill the spike holes for the HOn3 ties in order to keep the ties from splitting and the spikes from bending. I when I am satisfied with a stretch of rail, I put a dab of diluted matte medium on top of every spike. After it dries, I tap the spike down to set it firmly against the rail. I started doing this after I discovered the cork roadbed was not gripping the small spikes tightly, and they would sometimes work up and interfere with the wheel flanges.

Well, there are lots of options, an attractive to me is the use of Central Valley's tie strips, with rail glued on. But for true handlaying I still like my old tried and true spikes in a wooden tie. What do you need? Ties, lots of ties. Ballast, rail and spikes. For tools, needlenose pliers that will grasp the spike head well, a file and rail cutter of your choice. Track gauges! I use 4. I attach feeders to each piece of rail. Perhaps being a bit anal, I use a drill press to drill clearance holes in the bottom of the rail for 22 gauge wire and solder feeders to the rail prior to laying (passed thru a hole in the roadbed) This is both easy and yields invisible feeders.

For turnouts there is fast tracks, quite the rage it seems. I saw the results at their display, which were wonderful. But the jigs are pricey, and what made their display great was the complexity of the diorama. God knows how many different jigs they used to build it! If you just need a # 6 it would make sense if you needed a bunch. They certainly do make it easier to get perfect results, without much of a learning curve. But long before this (and other similar items) were available, I was laying turnouts and I had chosen an article by Tony Koester. You should be able to find it in the MR forum somewhere, perhaps. Building the turnouts in place on the layout lets you get creative, using one length of rail to run from the frog on thru the next turnout, for instance. Like this:
[attachment=4137]

I like to hand lay. It does take a lot of patience, practice, attention to detail, and a willingness to rip it up and do it all over again. Which I've done on my present layout at least twice so far.

If you want to just get your trains running like last week, then hand laying track is not for you.

I purchased a # 5 single turnout Fast Tracks Kit which I have put to some seriously good use so I'm confident with the fact that I've received a decent return on my investment. In hindsight, if I could do it all over again, I would instead have purchased the # 6 Crossover Kit. The Crossover Kit while the start up cost is more expensive initially, the Crossover Jig is more versatile, as you can make a single turnout, a single crossover, or of course the double. Using the jigs really boosted my confidence, being new to the hobby and exploring the options available to me at the time. However, I think I've safely moved beyond that horizon and have since built a few different pieces of track without the jigs. I'm especially proud of my # 6 Crossover. It was the first piece of track work I made without a jig and I am especially proud to have it sitting on my layout performing its job beautifully.



As for tools, an NMRA track guage (your scale of choice) and some 3 point track gauges (I have three). For spiking I picked up Xuron tool kit sold by Micro Mark which contains a set of rail cutters, spiking pliers, and spike removal pliers. I tried using a set of needle nose pliers with a small groove in them to hold spikes, but just got frustrated by the amount of spikes which went spiraling off into oblivion when the pliers would not hold them securely. However that is not to say you could not try making your own.

http://www.micromark.com/3-PIECE-TRACKLA...,9200.html

Ties can be had from a variety of sources, either your LHS carries them or you can order on-line;

http://www.blackbearcc.com/index.htm
http://www.handlaidtrack.com/index-2.php
http://www.mtalbert.com/lumber/basswood.html

For one stop shopping the Fast Tracks site has it all.

I'm not sure which "diorama" JG is speaking of, but if he is referring to the CNJ Bronx Terminal, that track was meticulously cut filed and shaped by hand over a cad drawn template by its owner Tim Warris. For some serious head spinning I suggest you check his Blog for some Supreme Track Laying Skills.

http://www.bronx-terminal.com/?p=5

one of the biggest advantages of hand laid is your not stuck with turnouts or cross overs, that are in a fixed number or angle giving you more freedom in planning a layout and specialty track work that you can't buy like the lap turnout i'm planning to use. the down side is the time to get up and running, to get around that my last layout i just hand laid turnouts and cross overs and used flex track for the rest , once i was happy with the results i started replacing the flex with hand laid a few feet at a time.to me its the challange of building my own track , but its not for everybody.
jim

I like the code 70 Micro Engineering flex track, but commercial turn outs get expensive fast. I looked at the Fast Tracks jigs, but I don't think I will need enough switches to justify the purchase price. I'm planning to get Central Valley turn out tie strips and use code 70 rail with Proto 87 frog castings. The Proto 87 store lists frog casting in both proto 87 and NMRA standard sizes.

Thanks guys im going to chew the fat a bit more over the idea and get a short supply and give it a whack with just streight track. Tetters im sure them spike did not disapear give someones feet time to find them

tetters Wrote:However, I think I've safely moved beyond that horizon and have since built a few different pieces of track without the jigs.

If you'd like some actual track/turnout plans, I can scan some schematics out of my circa 1930 CNR Maintenance of Way book. They have a wye, and several of the numbered turnouts up to about #20 for highspeed crossovers. Send me a PM if you're interested.

That #6 crossover sure is a work of art...!

Andrew

I am hand laying track. Code 55 MicroMark. I really enjoy it. I am currently working on an early period layout so the track looks much better. I super glue the rail right to the ties. I use track gauges from http://www.railwayeng.com/gauges.htm
They clip nicely on the rail, super glue doesn't stick to them very much, and you arrange them tightly packed or loosely. I typically put the rail together using the clip on gauges and then lay it on the ties and mark my glue lines. Lift it off, lay the glue and place it back on. I would suggest 2 packs, especially if you are going to be laying HO codes of track.