I am in the process of applying the finish colors to some reefers that I am building. If I remember correctly,decals should be applied to a glossy surface but these colors are on the dull side. My question is this-should I spray the car sides with a gloss coat before applying the decals? If so can the car be weathered over the gloss surface or should it be weathered first? The reason I ask is I want to be able to apply weathering over the decals.
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Bob
Personally, I've never worried about the glossy surface for decaling. I have decaled over brushed craft paint and other rough surfaces with success. The key is microsol. Apply the decals with water and let them dry. Next, we will do three applications of microsol.... brush on some MicroSol and let that dry. Once it dries, do another application (if you see any air pockets or places where the decal hasn't snuggled down tightly to the surface, poke a sharp pin in those places before the second coat of microsol). After that dries, do one more application of microsol. Once it is thoroughly dry, do a couple of coats of dullcote or other matte finish.
If you've never used microsol, you have to be careful with it. Quickly brush it onto the decal, and then leave the decal alone. Don't touch it, don't try to reposition it or anything. And, the microsol may even cause the decal to "crinkle" a bit. That is okay. As the microsol dries, the decal will go back to its original look, but will be snuggled down to the surface.
Anyway, that's how I do it and have been satisfied with the results.
I believe the most common method is to apply a gloss coat, apply the decals, and then apply a dull coat.
I'm adding some decals to my switcher and according to the instructions on the Solvaset, it says to apply a flay coat.
Go figure.
Tom
My limited experience with homemade decals was unsuccessful with a dull airbrushed surface. I now spray any dull surfaces with testors glosscote, apply the decals, then dullcote, then weather, and more dullcote. I find that weathering doesn't do very well on a glossy surface.
Thanks for the replies guys.I appreciate it.I think I read on decal instructions to apply them to a glossy surface. I'll probably do a small test first.
Bob
nachoman Wrote:My limited experience with homemade decals was unsuccessful with a dull airbrushed surface. I now spray any dull surfaces with testors glosscote, apply the decals, then dullcote, then weather, and more dullcote. I find that weathering doesn't do very well on a glossy surface.
This really is the best way to achieve satisfying results. You will definitely see the outline of the clear decal backing if you apply them over a dull surface. To weather simply spray the decaled unit with dullcote.
Thanks Dave.Sounds like a plan.
Bob
I can attest to the fact that the decal outline can be seen when applied to a dull surface. :oops: I've learned that lesson1
Ralph
A long time ago, I started adding "Glaze" to my Floquil paints, so that I didn't have to overspray with a gloss.
I had three Walthers tank cars, painted , and thoroughly dry. I oversprayed with a clear gloss, and the entire surface of all three cars...wrinkled. I haven't oversprayed clear, since.
The "rule of thumb" seems to be: Gloss finish for decals, flat finish for dry transfers. In either case, a flat clear ( Dullcoat) over, and then weather. Chalks can be applied before the flat, mainly because the process is less likely to damage the lettering, than dry brushing, or washes.
nachoman Wrote:My limited experience with homemade decals was unsuccessful with a dull airbrushed surface. I now spray any dull surfaces with testors glosscote, apply the decals, then dullcote, then weather, and more dullcote. I find that weathering doesn't do very well on a glossy surface.
My procedure is similar to Kevin's, although after decalling and Dullcoting, I apply the weathering and don't Dullcote again. If you're using chalks for weathering, though, a final application of Dullcote is a good idea.
For passenger cars I prefer a semi-gloss final overspray before weathering and steam locos get several varied clear finishes ranging from dead flat to a fairly high gloss (all on the same loco/tender), then weathering and
no final overspray. I may make an exception for one of the two locos I'm currently painting, though, as its owner wants it heavily weathered. Still, I'm going to paint it as just out-shopped, apply the weathering and see if it actually needs to be Dullcoted for the final step.
Wayne
Ralph Wrote:I can attest to the fact that the decal outline can be seen when applied to a dull surface. :oops: I've learned that lesson1
Ralph
Did you use three applications of microsol and two of dullcote after applying decals to a dull surface? It really does work, at least for me.
No, I didn't do that Gary. I wonder if another shot of Dulcoat might help those old projects after all this time?
Ralph
Ralph, it couldn't hurt. Give it a try and see if it helps.
foulrift Wrote:Good points.Thanks
Also, i'd suggest spraying with an airbrush and not a spray can. the spray can may be convenient, but as i learned painting a few of my newer models, the spray can does NOT leave a smooth surface. while the gloss may in fact come out smooth, the coat is uneven in coverage and may even cover some shallow details ( i nearly had this problem with one of my brass electric engines! needless to say, i had to do a lot of scrubbing).
its better to invest in or use an airbrush, since this creates a finer coat. Don't worry about the decal seam, even light coats will eventually cover it. I've found that the least amount of paint, the better, not only from an efficiency standpoint, but a aesthetic one.