I found a real tool to make a proper looking hill/cliff side from the durabond. just let it get to the point it is set fairly well, but not hard and drag this through it in the same direction until you are satisfied with the layering.[attachment=7375]
Then add the color of your choice. I have done the layer of brown. I use the Plaid brand from walmart and thin it about 50/50 or a little better with rubbing alcohol. Next step is to add some yellow and light gray to the wash and go over it. I have found it turns out best if you let it dry before adding different shades.[attachment=7374]
Charlie

I bought a bunch of different LED's to use for lighting in my buildings, signals, and even locomotive headlamps.
Tonight I made some lights for the engine house. I used a yellow LED with a 120 degree viewing angle. I painted some #8 flat washers green and slipped them over the lens on the LED's and applied a touch of CA.[attachment=7383][attachment=7382]
I used single strand 18 Ga wire and wired 5 in series with a 1000 ohm resistor and hot glued the wire up the front and rear center pillars inside the engine house and along the peak of the roof. I'm very happy with the lighting.[attachment=7381]
Charlie

That looks very nice, Charlie!

The yellow is just enough for that "glow" that is often seen when you look at the lit interior of a structure at night.

Very nice work Charlie!

Charlie,

It seems like only a few days ago I was all read up on your layout progress. I go back to get up to speed, and what to my wondering eyes should appear?? Your layout looks incredible!! I have to say that it makes me more than a bit jealous (and makes me feel like a lazy bum). If I ever get over that way, which could happen, I would love to join in an operating session (please don't think that I am being pushy or forward, I am not trying to invite myself).
Have you set up an operating scheme? I have to go back through and check out the videos. I spent a decent amount of time reading yesterday, but I didn't look at the you tube links.

Matt

iis612 Wrote:Charlie,

If I ever get over that way, which could happen, I would love to join in an operating session (please don't think that I am being pushy or forward, I am not trying to invite myself).
Have you set up an operating scheme? I have to go back through and check out the videos. I spent a decent amount of time reading yesterday, but I didn't look at the you tube links.

Matt

Hi Matt
The doors are always open for Big Blue folks if I'm home. (I'm home 99% of the time).
When we run trains here, we play with trains. After managing a railroad for 13 years the last thing I want to do is run by rules. I only have one, It's an easy one.."Don't let anything hit the floor"
I have been very lax recording video. I've had good intentions, but they wind up going by the wayside. There are still many things to do, but for less than a year I think I'm doing OK.
I figure what isn't up to par will get a redo later, I just have to get everything up and out of boxes.
Thanks everyone for the encouragement. There are times when it gets to be too much.
I just remind myself that this is a hobby and hobbies are supposed to be a fun pass-time
Charlie

That's some great lighting..!! Just what the doctor ordered for my roundhouse...!!

Thanks for the tip....

What voltage are you feeding those leds..??

Hi Charlie---having recently been working on my own layout with Doctor Wayne,I can really appreciate all the work you have put into your incredible train room and it just keeps getting better--- as you indicated and Doc Wayne has also demonstrated,it is a fun adventure and labour of love

This has been a learning experience for me. It is amazing the stupid things we do. :mrgreen: .
I was making those lights last night, and after gluing all the #8 washers on the LED's I painted the "shades" with a small paint brush and craft paint. It hit me this morning, I have about 6 cans of nice green spray pain, I could have sprayed them all first.

Here are some pictures to kind of show how I did it a little better
After I had the shade installed I used a piece of the insulation from the 18 Ga. wire to insulate the anode on the LED, then I bent each lead 90 degrees opposite each other.[attachment=7397]
Then I soldiered the approximate length of bared wire to each lead. In this case I did it until I had 5 lights on a string, then on one end I made a 90 degree bend to tuck in the corner and ran a lead with an added 1000 ohm 1/2 watt resistor soldiered in place. I did the same on the other end but no resistor is needed.[attachment=7396]

I used hot glue to hold the wire and lamps in place. I'll paint the wire and down tubes black. I'm not going to do more with them because they are not visible.
here is the link to the place I got the LED's <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.electron.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1&q=412my8c">http://www.electron.com/search.php?mode ... &q=412my8c</a><!-- m -->

I ordered a bunch of different LED's including some very nice warm white for headlights as well as some great looking small blue ones for blue flag protection at night. I also ordered a lot of switches to justify the shipping cost. (These folks were great although I think they are a very small company)
Here are a few more pictures[attachment=7395][attachment=7394][attachment=7393]

Charlie

Charlie,

Are you powering those with DCC?

Matt

iis612 Wrote:Charlie,

Are you powering those with DCC?

Matt

No Matt, DCC is an alternating current and will not work on these LEDS. You need straight DC power and you have to apply the positive lead to the Anode. I figure to use a DC wall wart. I've been saving the for years. You can always change the resistance for a higher voltage wall wart. (Bi-polar LED's will light yellow with AC voltage)
Charlie

Charlie,

Thanks for the info. I read an article in MRR about using LED lighting and powering it from the DCC track bus. I have a DC power pack, and several structures that need lighting. That is a ways down the road yet though.

Matt

I suppose it would be posible to make a rectifier and use the power from the dcc buss, but I need all the DCC power to run trains.
Charlie

You can just wire pairs of LEDs back to back and run them off the DCC track power. Or regular AC. Still need the resistors.

However, as convenient as it might sound, don't light your structures from the DCC track power - it's a waste of money. You cna get 3.5 amp power supplies on eBay for under 10 bucks - if you run out of power ont eh DCC side you need to buy another booster and power supply, which will run at least $150. DCC power is expensive - save it for the trains.

--Randy

Charlie B, thanks for the nice tips. I won't be needing to do any rock faces, but I like the way you did them with the hair brush. Now, the LED lighting, that's a nice trick using washers for shades, and I can make use of that eventually. The lighting looks good in the structures.

Good to see you making progress!