Some of you may remember the manual switch controllers I built a few years ago for my layout. Since I am expanding, I'll need quite a few more. And since I am waiting on the sheetrock finisher to get finished, I figured I would get a start on the controllers. I did brainstorm a new idea that makes my apparatus much easier and quicker to build....

The starting point is a 3-way switch, just like the one you would use in your house (although this isn't the cheapy 57 cent variety, this is the commercial grade switch - a bit more expensive, but more robust - should take the abuse and keep on ticking)



First, we drill the handle. This is a #36 bit which is the hole needed for a 6-32 tap.



Now we tap the hole:



I took a 10-24 rod coupling and used some JB Quick epoxy to glue a screw eye into it. The screw eye is sized to fit over a 6-32 screw.



Here are some parts needed so far - drilled 3-way switch, 6-32 machine screw, 6-32 nut, and the rod coupling eye assembly.



And here is the swithc with the rod coupling attached.



continued next post --

We drill a small hole, sized for a .032 spring steel wire (music wire). Drill the hole in the handle right by the screw eye.



Insert the spring wire into the hole. Bend the wire so that it is firmly attached to the switch handle.



Next comes the bracket. This is 1 1/2 inch x 1 1/2 inch aluminum angle, 1/16 inch thick.



Cut the bracket as shown. I have a band saw so the work went smoothly. Could use a hacksaw if that's all you have.



Break the fingers out of the cut area, and bend the other cut piece up 90 degrees:



continued....

My layout has 2" foam on top, so the switch is mounted about 3" below the track. The bent aluminum piece will stick up through a hole in the foam and the wire will go into the turn-out.

We have to drill 5 holes in the bracket. Two will match up to the mounting holes on the switch, two for mounting the bracket underneath the layout, and one for the spring wire.



And the small hole for the spring wire:



Here is the bracket attached to the switch, with the spring wire extending through the hole.



For the operator, we use a 10-24 threaded rod and a wooden drawer knob. The knob screws onto the rod, but I put some Aleene's Tacky Glue in the hole just to make sure it holds well.



And here is the completed controller. To install, the rod is unscrewed from the rod coupling, the bracket/switch is mounted under the layout with wire extending into the turn-out. A hole is drilled in the fascia, the rod is inserted through the hole and screwed into the rod coupling. Push and pull equals diffferent route! The 3-way switch is used to power the frog.



And here is a photo of my old style controller which is way harder to build:



Woohoo!

Total cost?

Galen

Gary
Thanks for posting this once again It will be in my favorites this time.
Charlie

ocalicreek Wrote:Total cost?

Side note: :x I just typed a reply with all the costs and everything - it took quite awhile because I am doing other things too. So I hit "submit" and the forum tells me I have to log in to use the quote function - the forum logged me out and the message is lost to oblivion. So I have to do it all over again.

Three-way switch = 4.79
3" of alum angle = 1.15
12" 10-24 rod = .73
rod coupling = .31
screw eye = .05
wooden knob = .97
6-32 nut and screw = .10
5" spring wire = .10
-------------------------------
total = 8.20

compare to Bullfrog control unit and actuating rod = 9.29

On the HD website, they show a Leviton 15 amp 3-way switch for 1.49. The switch looks relatively robust and I wouldn't be afraid to use it. This would lower the cost of the mechanism to 4.90.

Note that many of the items in my list have to be bought in bulk form. of course, i assume we are making more than one of these.

For the budget minded, there is usually a cheaper source for some of these parts besides a big-box store. You may be able to find aluminum at a metal salvage place, or a metal dealer. There is a metal dealer near me that sells much cheaper than the box stores. You may be able to find used 3-way switches at a building materials recycling center if there is one in your area. Wall switches are made to take a lot of cycles and abuse, so a used one should work okay.

Installed a few of the controllers today:

First, here is a controller ready to be installed:


Use a turn-out to mark the location of the hole under the throw-bar and for the wire which powers the frog.


Cut out the cork and drill two holes (one for the frog wire and one for the turn-out controller) down through the foam through the 1/4" plywood. Then use a 1" bit to drill a hole from the bottom of the benchwork up to the throw-bar location. Be cautious not to go to far with the drill. The hole should be about 1.5 inches deep. (the foam is 2" thick)



Next, spread glue on the cork, feed the frog wire down through its hole, then press the turnout into the glue. Use some pins to hold the turn-out down. I am using pins I made from galvanized tie-wire by cutting the wire at angle on one end and bending the other end at a 90 degree angle.



Next, guide the spring wire up through the 1" hole and through the haole in the throw-bar. Then screw the turn-out controller to the 1/4" plywood.



The spring wire coming through the turn-out.



Still need to do the wiring for the frog power and add the control rod and knob.

I like it I have to give it a try. Thanks Gary.

Nice. I'm experimenting with manual switch machines right now, albeit ones intended for the hobby (blue point and bullfrog). This idea is a good one and reminds me that I saw something similar on a layout tour earlier this year. Thanks for the reminder and the walkthrough!

Matt

I gave a shot at your controls. I didn't follow your methods exactly but there pretty close. I used a ring Sta-kon and wooden dowel instead of your idea with the threaded rod and coupling. It does the same job just as well and I had them on hand. Because I'm using 1 inch foam instead of 2 in ,like on your layout, I needed the pivot point of the music wire to be lower. That eliminated some of the cuts and bends in the aluminum angle. Just a simple hole is needed in the top part of the angle. This method should probably work on your layout also.

Here is my version of your design. you can see it's pretty much the same.[attachment=5128]

This is one installed under the layout. I'll install the dowel rod when I'm ready to add the fascia to the layout.[attachment=5127]

Thanks for the Idea... It couldn't have come at a better time.

BTW,,, that's the leviton switch that you were talking about, it works just fine.

Brilliant! Love the design change.

Terrific idea on the sta-cons. And I have about a million of those things! Oh well, home depot needs to sell rod couplings and screw eyes and all that stuff. And with your use of the Leviton switch and the cheaper angle you found, your cost is less than half of what mine was.

See, I told you that electrishuns are pretty dadburned inteLLigenT!

Going along with your theme I had to install one of your switch machines in a difficult spot on the layout. the switch is right at the edge where a removable section goes. The track plan doesn't allow me to move the switch to a new location or alter the bench work. To solve the problem I add a linkage and moved the switch machine to a remote location. The pics explain the process.[attachment=5488] I had to gouge out some of the bench work to clear the 3 way.


[attachment=5487]I used a plastic coffee stirrer glued down to the foam to protect the linkage. There will be a building placed here to hide my contraption.

Very nice amd good ingenuity! I didn't have any issues like that, but there are a couple places where I had to cut some wood cross-braces out of the way.