Hi Guys,

I'm currently working on my second attempt at kitbashing a GP30 high hood in current NS colors. After learning what not to do on my first attempt, I'm trying to improve on this second try. (It sure would be easier if Atlas would just make a high hood...but I digress...)

I've been pouring over pictures of current NS engines and can't figure this one out on my own. Exactly what color "black" is NS using nowadays? Some of their engines look like a glossy black was used, while others look more like a satin finish. Still others look more of a dull black. Is there a variance between paint shops that I just don't know about? I understand a photo can be affected by the amount or lack of sunlight, cloud cover, even humidity...but most of the pictures I've been looking at make it seem that the engines being delivered or reburb'd are coming off the line with a glossy black paint job.

Since this engine would be a repaint of a Southern high hood GP30, I'd like to color it in the most current decals and paint. (Plus, I really like that showroom new paint job when an engine is brand new or just refurbished.) So, I'm asking all you NS experts out there...what is the best choice for NS black engine paint?

Thanks!

If your after that show room new look ( sounds like your after a Heritage unit) I suggest you use a very high gloss black finish.

Now if I were doing it along with that High gloss Black finish I would use the current Horsehead decals to finish it off with all of the warning labels used too.

This is just my buck.50 ,your change may be different.

Mark, as a former autobody man I can tell you black is black. It was the only color that is /was the same for AMC, GMC, Ford, and Chrysler so you can't go wrong painting it high gloss black. Here are some pictures of the unit for our local fresh out of the shop.
Charlie

The reason some NS locos look like they have a matte or satin finish is simply paint fade. Black, even gloss black, fades over time on something exposed to the elements most of their working lives like a locomotive is.

Holy cow you could shave in front of that unit! Now that's glossy!!! High gloss black it is!

(I guess I'll need to post some progress pictures of this latest attempt at a high hood GP30 to show you guys what I'm up to.)

Thanks very much for the info guys.

That is nice.
Looks like all the top surfaces are painted some shade of gray, or is that just how the sun is hitting it?

I would say the top of the nose is anti-skid black, the rest is just the way the sun is hitting it.

Puddlejumper Wrote:I would say the top of the nose is anti-skid black, the rest is just the way the sun is hitting it.

Dave is right on the money, it is a flat black to stop the glare, but the high hood GP30 would be all glossy. Everything but the top of the nose is gloss black. the sun has it washed out on the top. Too bad it is back lit, but the shots were out of our apartment window.
Charlie

This is what I'm up to...another attempt at building a high hood GP30.





Hopefully, some glossy black paint will dress this (former Burlington GP30 low nose) engine into something you'd actually want to look at. Right now, it looks pretty rough.

I'm trying to decide if it would be a better idea to spray primer grey over the entire model, or just start painting it black like I did the first one. I'm afraid I'll completely loose the detailing of the model if I use a primer first. I didn't have any trouble covering the shell of the first GP30 attempt just using black spray paint, but with the red and grey of the other unit, I'm not as sure I'll get a good, even coverage. Any thoughts? I plan on using a canned spray paint since I don't do air brushing yet. Granted, this would probably be a good place to start learning how to use one, but I'm not in the market to buy one right now. I've been using warmed spray paint with a trigger gun and have had good results. Fortunately, I only have to paint this engine with one color...all black...so masking off areas isn't a consideration. If I was going to attempt the Southern GP30 with its tuxedo black, white and gold coloring, I agree an airbrush would be a must.

Comments?

Mark, you didn't say what you used for glue to make the high hood, but if it is stable I would strip all of the paint first, then I would make sure there were no scratches in the glue points of fillers. you can usually use 600 wet or dry ( Used wet ) or finer sandpaper. Just remember, paint will only exaggerate any defects, so the better the prep work the better the paint job.
Charlie

First NS uses what they call 13 dip black.I call it Gloss Black...

Here's my idea for NS units.

Gloss Black.

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Engine Black.
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Flat Black.

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Sorry for not adding more details about the actual construction...

I sized and glued a Bachmann GP50 nose to the Atlas GP30 with Superglue (that's all that I had in the house to use at the time). It is well joined to the base shell. Then, the MMD green putty was applied and sanded with 400 grit sandpaper till smooth. I can only see the flaws using a very close up camera photo...with the eye from an inch or two away, you just can't see any imperfections...but the pictures don't lie. I added styrene cut to size beneath the newly created angled roof line, it too was superglued in place and covered with MMD putty, and everything filed completely smooth.

Part of the problem is the scale. I'm doing most of the work under a pretty strong magnifying glass, and even then, you can hardly see where or what needs filing. The overall granular texture of the MMD putty is something I didn't expect. For Nscale, it's almost too granular. I could have/should have used a finer putty material. It's strong stuff, but tough to sand smooth without any blemishes. So I'll try to use some 600 grit to really get a smooth surface. From a foot away, it looks fine, but I know as soon as I begin taking pictures, any flaw will jump out.

Now, should I prime or paint two coats of high gloss? I'm thinking painting the surface with a primer first will give better paint adhesion and a uniform surface for the high gloss to latch on to. But, I'm worried I'll loose some of the Nscale detailing on the engine. Comments? Opinions?

Mark, what I'd do is strip the shell in alcohol to remove the current red and grey paint. The problem with black, especially gloss black, is that when light hits it, it'll show whatever is underneath, so you'll always end up with a line seperating the former colors I am afriad. I would definitely recommend a primer coat, but only after stripping the shell so as not to have too many layers of paint, obscuring details. Then apply a nice even (1) coat of gloss black over the primer coat and you should be all set.

That's a good idea Tom...time to break out the alcohol. (I'm thinking getting this red paint off is going to be a messy adventure.) I was also thinking of using a darker grey or black colored primer hoping that would help hide any coloring imperfections better.

With a little soft scrubbing and the 91% isopropyl alcohol, all the old paint came off. That sure worked the trick. I was surprised to discover that the whole engine was painted in the light tan of Burlington and then the red painted over that. So the whole cleaning process took about 30 minutes of gentle scrubbing and thankfully it seems with no harm to the plastic. But under a magnifying glass, I noticed tiny gaps in the putty in one or two spots. They're smaller than a pin point, but there just the same. So tomorrow, I'll try filling them, followed by yet more sanding.

Then the more difficult part...

I'm going to use a primer color first to gave a good solid base coat, let it dry for a day, then use the high gloss black. Hopefully, the gloss black will look good over the primer and not wash out all the subtle detailing on this Nscale engine.