We are building a new layout and was wondering which number# turnouts should we use on our mainline and switching yard? We will most likely be going with Atlas or Walthers Code 83 and running a double mainline 18" & 22" radius. Our layout will be based in the late 60's-early 70's era and will be running mostly 40'-50' box cars and grain hoppers with GP's and Dash's for power. Thanks for the help.
Hmmm! How much real estate is available? If you have elbow room, #6's or even #8's are nice on the main ... but if things are tight you may have to drop back to #4's. The number 4's will probably be what you're looking at in the yard, but again, if there's room ...
Maybe your best bet might be to print out some templates that you can get for free
HERE. Then you can try things full size and find out what actually fits (sometimes even the best scale drawings speak like a politician!)
I'd go with #6 minimum if you have the space. But since you already are using 18" radius and are limited to shorter locos and cars, #4 will probably suffice.
Our layout will be in the shape of an "L" with the long leg being 4'x16' and the bottom of the "L" being 4'x10'6". We are using the 18" & 22" just to get 2 mains on the layout. I could go bigger but that would interfear with our future addition of a steelmill.
If there is any way that you could open that 18" up to 22" or 24", I'd do it. By using 18" radius you are starting out by placing yourself at a sizeable disadvantage. You are limiting locomotive size/length, car length and quite a few other considerations. By using the 18" radius curves, turnouts larger than #4 (#4.5) are cosmetic as you've already limited the wheelbase of locomotives with the 18" radius curve.
Since you are still at the pre-laying track stage, a point where changes can still be "comfortably" made, I would give serious thought to "Wishes and Druthers" and weight your priorities ... how important is each one of those desires and and are they important enough to effectively cripple future considerations. You have more space available to use than many others have and yet you are planning on using the tightest "useable" curve radius that is out there.
It is your railroad, not mine. But with a space measuring approximately 12' x 14' and a desire to be able to "follow my train," I'll be building an around-the-walls w/peninsula style benchwork and utilizing 24" (min., one place) and 26" curves, with 30" whenever I can spread it out. I am beginning my building in a terminal area, where trackage is "straighter" and the wheelbase of locomotives have already dictated turnout number to #6 as a minimum ... I'll not have to make the final decision on curve radii for some time yet, but I'll go with the broadest curves that I can manage. I gave up on any thoughts of a double main line in favor of a single main line with several long passing sidings (which in the end, look almost like a double main line) so that I can utilize wider, more prototypical curves and avoid tight, toy-like curves.
In the end, you must satisfy yourself, not any one of us. We can only make suggestions.
NMRA recommended Practice here: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.nmra.org/standards/sandrp/rp-11.html">http://www.nmra.org/standards/sandrp/rp-11.html</a><!-- m -->
If you fight your way through, they suggest that 18" radius in HO should get at least a #5 turnout.
The rest of the table shows what sort of rolling stock should be compatible with that.
rthornton Wrote:We are building a new layout and was wondering which number# turnouts should we use on our mainline and switching yard? We will most likely be going with Atlas or Walthers Code 83 and running a double mainline 18" & 22" radius.....
An Atlas #4 (really a 4.5) or a Walthers #5 will handle everything that will go around 18" & 22" radius curves. It sounds like you have successfully coordinated the minimum radius and rolling stock you will be using. Be forewarned that a crossover from track to the other using 2 #4 LH or RH turnouts is effectively an S curve of about 24" radius. For crossovers where the curve reverses, you may want to use #6 turnouts.
my thoughts, your choices
Fred W
What Fred said. The minimum radius in a #4.5 (which is the Atlas "#4") is 20", so the layout limit will be the 18" radius curves, not the turnout. That's only for a short distance in the turnout, the overall substitution radius of a #4.5 is about 35" radius. My 4-8-4 will negotiate an Atlas #4 just fine, but not at 'warp' speed.
--Randy
Went to the local hobby store today and found nothing in the way of comparison/contrast for turnouts. Did some more reading, looked at the 30 or 40 magazines we have and decided to go with the #6's everywhere and save the #4's for our switching yard. Templates are being copied so we can lay them out as soon as the benchwork is complete. Stopped by Home Depot, Lowes & Menards today as well to do some bargain shopping. Will go back in the morning and get all the lumber necessary to start the benchwork as well as the paint for the basement walls. Totally psyched about starting this layout. Photos of the progress will be coming soon. Thanks for all the input. You guys rock!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
P5se Camelback Wrote:Hmmm! How much real estate is available? If you have elbow room, #6's or even #8's are nice on the main ... but if things are tight you may have to drop back to #4's. The number 4's will probably be what you're looking at in the yard, but again, if there's room ...
Maybe your best bet might be to print out some templates that you can get for free HERE. Then you can try things full size and find out what actually fits (sometimes even the best scale drawings speak like a politician!)
Thanks for the heads up on the template website P5se Camelback. These will work out awesome in the coming weeks.
If you aren't familiar with Model Railroad Hobbyist Magazine, check it out at <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com">http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com</a><!-- m --> The magazine is free. Look at the first issue. When you are on the home page there are a bunch of tabs at the top of the page. If you put your curser over the tab marked "MAGAZINE" you will get a drop down menu. Click on "BACK ISSUES" and open the January. On page 5 is the table of contents and there is an article beginning on page 45 titled "Powerful new curve insights for any scale." It is illustrated with a lot of photos showing how various lengths of rolling stock work on various curves. If after reading the article and looking at the pics of various cars on the different radii, you are sure that you want to run short enough equipment to use an 18 inch radius, go for it. But the pictures will tell you exactly what the short comings are with such a tight radius.
Russ Bellinis Wrote:If you aren't familiar with Model Railroad Hobbyist Magazine, check it out at <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com">http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com</a><!-- m --> The magazine is free. Look at the first issue. When you are on the home page there are a bunch of tabs at the top of the page. If you put your curser over the tab marked "MAGAZINE" you will get a drop down menu. Click on "BACK ISSUES" and open the January. On page 5 is the table of contents and there is an article beginning on page 45 titled "Powerful new curve insights for any scale." It is illustrated with a lot of photos showing how various lengths of rolling stock work on various curves. If after reading the article and looking at the pics of various cars on the different radii, you are sure that you want to run short enough equipment to use an 18 inch radius, go for it. But the pictures will tell you exactly what the short comings are with such a tight radius.
Thanks for the heads up Russ. Awesome article. Didn't know that site existed so that's in the "favorite's" column now. Almost everything we have for rolling stock (300+) are either 40' or 50'. All have Kaydee couplers on them but some still have the plastic wheels which we are slowly converting. We had decided to run the 40's on the 18" and the 50's on the 22" but my sons and I are now talking about putting a "dogbone" style end on the layout to make the corners a little more gradual. Nothing major on the "dogbone" but something that will ease the turning and not effect the future installation of our steel mill. (That's like Phase #6 so it's a ways down the road.)
I greatly appreciate all the help and input you guys have given. Thanks for steering this newbie in the right direction. You guys rock!!!!!!!!!!!!