I have a small DC-wired HO (or British 00) layout that has two loops of track. The outer loop is isolated into two halves via plastic (insulating) rail-joiners so that I can stop one train on one half while still running another train on the other half.

The inner loop, however, does not have any isolated sections of track. I'm now thinking that it would be great if I could break the track into two sections via these plastic rail-joiners. Only problem, most of the line is already neatly ballasted, especially the sections where I'd like to add the rail-joiners!

Is there a quick, easy method of adding plastic joiners (or something smilar) to ballasted track? I don't want to get into ripping up my nicely-ballasted track, making a mess of the scenery, and relaying the track. I think the rewiring part would be fairly easy (thanks to soldering) but the track/plastic insulators part could be tricky. For example, is there a way of simply sawing through the track with an Atlas hobby saw and then inserting small bits of plastic?

Thanks in advance,
Rob

Inserting railjoiners without disturbing the track is pretty tricky, however if your rail is laid down properly, then just cutting the rail with your mentioned saw is good enough. The rails won't move much, unless your train room has excessive temperature fluctuations, and by cutting through you've already created the electric separation.
I you're not entirely sure, you could insert a tiny piece of styrene and carefully sand/file that to the right shape. A drop of white glue will do the same, but may be a little trickier to shape.

Koos

It is fairly common to isolate ballasted track just as you stated. Carefully cut the rails and then glue some plastic in the gap, and carefully file it to shape. I think it was Russ that suggested using plastic bread wrapper clips for this purpose (the little rectangular plastic thing that holds the bread bag closed in lieu of a tie.) I'll be using a Dremel tool with a cutting disk to do my gaps.

torikoos Wrote:Inserting railjoiners without disturbing the track is pretty tricky, however if your rail is laid down properly, then just cutting the rail with your mentioned saw is good enough. The rails won't move much, unless your train room has excessive temperature fluctuations, and by cutting through you've already created the electric separation.
I you're not entirely sure, you could insert a tiny piece of styrene and carefully sand/file that to the right shape. A drop of white glue will do the same, but may be a little trickier to shape.

Koos

Thanks -- this sounds great & is the sort of solution I was hoping for. Rob

Gary S Wrote:It is fairly common to isolate ballasted track just as you stated. Carefully cut the rails and then glue some plastic in the gap, and carefully file it to shape. I think it was Russ that suggested using plastic bread wrapper clips for this purpose (the little rectangular plastic thing that holds the bread bag closed in lieu of a tie.) I'll be using a Dremel tool with a cutting disk to do my gaps.

Thanks, Gary. I'll try this then, following the previous suggestion but also inserting small pieces of plastic into the gaps as suggested by Russ. I'll try to save some of those bread bag clips then!
Rob

I surround the area with a small amount of J B Weld and let it cure, then I cut the rail. Put enough under the rail to hold it, and after cutting I put a little dab in the gap and when it cures I shape the inside.
Charlie

The atlas saw may produce a gap that is a little too thin for a plastic bag clip. Using a dremel-type tool isn't that great either, because the cut may be wider than it needs to be, and it's hard to cut perpendicular to the rail because the motor part of the tool gets in the way. If you use a flexible shaft in the motor tool and a thin cut off wheel, you will have better results. I tend to favor using a razor saw, being extra careful not to damage the track, and then cement in a very thin piece of styrene using CA. Even a thick piece of paper may work. If you don't put in something to fill the gap, you may wind up with electrical problems down the road because expansion/contraction can close the gap.

Thanks, Kevin & Charlie. I'll be sure to fill the gap with something and I'll also look into using JB Weld. Rob

nachoman Wrote:If you use a flexible shaft in the motor tool and a thin cut off wheel, you will have better results.

I should have mentioned the flexible shaft. Without that, the Dremel is not good for cutting track. Gotta say that my purchase of the flex shaft was a very wise decision, it sure comes in handy.

Actually, the Dremel with a regular cut-off disc is fine for cutting gaps, too: just because it's not perpendicular doesn't mean it won't work. I have several thicknesses of discs (.020", .030" and .040") and use Plastruct ABS plastic of appropriate thickness to fill the gap, using ca to affix it in place. After the cement has cured, simply carve it to shape with your X-Acto knife - the dark grey plastic doesn't even require painting.

Wayne

I wonder why not fill the gap with a dab of rtv or silicone sealant, color of your choice. Just wipe off the excess, it would close the gap and still allow some expansion/contraction?

cid Wrote:I wonder why not fill the gap with a dab of rtv or silicone sealant, color of your choice. Just wipe off the excess, it would close the gap and still allow some expansion/contraction?

Thanks, I might try that. Still haven't got around to doing this yet, although I've bought the switches. Just need to be in the right mood as I don't want to mess it up! (since the track is neatly ballasted, etc.).

he biggest problem I see with silicone is that it tends to leave a thin insulating coat on everything it touches, and it may be difficult to get it off of the tops of the rails on either side of the gaps. It stays soft and rubbery, so it may push out of the joint and allow the gap to close if the rail expands. It could also then create derailments if it pushes out of the gap due to rail expansion.