I think I am going to rebuilt a crossover between mainlines. I presently have 2 #6 Atlas code 100. I would like to draw this out as long as I can. This is about #4 on a long list of things I would like to get done. The longest I can find is #12. Before some one suggests hand laying it I only have use of one hand. Are there any suggestions? The reason I am asking so far in advance is I am sure it won't be cheap and I am on disability.
Well I just dicovered Atlas makes a #8 but would like a longer one if possible.
I did a search on the Walthers site, and it says BK Enterprises makes code 100 #10 switches either kit or built up. Walthers Shinohara makes code 83 #10s. The question is whether you've got the room for something like that.
The closest ready made switches to NMRA standard are the Peco's. They don't list their sizes by # sizes, they just have short, medium, and long. I think a Peco Long would work for you. They may also make a double cross over if that is what you need, but it is really pricey!
Lester:
The Peco code 100 is about 10" long -- <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.peco-uk.com/imageselector/Files/Track-templates/SL-88,89.pdf">http://www.peco-uk.com/imageselector/Fi ... -88,89.pdf</a><!-- m -->
In code 83 they go up to a #8. You can fiddle a bit on their website to see others, but I don't think they have anything as long as you're looking for.
jwb Wrote:I did a search on the Walthers site, and it says BK Enterprises makes code 100 #10 switches either kit or built up. Walthers Shinohara makes code 83 #10s. The question is whether you've got the room for something like that.
To answer the question, I have about 4 feet. could have more if I must. How can I find out or figure out how long a 12 or16 would be?
Les, as I understand it (and I may be wrong... :oops: ) the # is a measure of the divergence of the diverging track. For example, a #8 switch would diverge one inch from the straight, for every 8 inches of distance from the frog. How far apart are the tracks in the crossover..?
I should have asked earlier, what is the reason for changing it? If the reason is for function, the Peco long will work for almost anything on the market. The exception might be some really big articulated brass engines. They are often made to replicate the prototype so closely that they need scale prototype curve radii and large frog angles to operate reliably. If the larger or longer cross over is because it looks better, would just see who makes the longest switch. Just be aware that Atlas or Shinohara may need some modification to function reliably.
One last option, do you have any model railroading friends nearby who might be able to hand lay a good turnout for you?
Russ nobody near me that can do it. The reason is the one I have now is Atlas #6 code 100. I have a 2-10-4 that refuses to go through it. It seems to start binding up as it goes into it (it slows) it then comes off the track in the middle of the crossover and it is the center drivers that usually come off. The only thing I can think of is the wiggle in the center is just too much. It goes through other # 6s with no trouble if I take it slow and easy. I do have a flange-less driver in the middle.
Steamtrains Wrote:Les, as I understand it (and I may be wrong... :oops: ) the # is a measure of the divergence of the diverging track. For example, a #8 switch would diverge one inch from the straight, for every 8 inches of distance from the frog. How far apart are the tracks in the crossover..?
By that standard, a #10 would be approx. 10", and a #12 approx. 12" long, or near enough for government work.
Lester Perry Wrote:Russ nobody near me that can do it. The reason is the one I have now is Atlas #6 code 100. I have a 2-10-4 that refuses to go through it. It seems to start binding up as it goes into it (it slows) it then comes off the track in the middle of the crossover and it is the center drivers that usually come off. The only thing I can think of is the wiggle in the center is just too much. It goes through other # 6s with no trouble if I take it slow and easy. I do have a flange-less driver in the middle.
A #8 or #10 should be plenty big enough to handle your 2-10-4, especially if it works on other #6 turnouts but doesn't like the #6 cross over. I would still recommend the Peco large simply because they are the closest r-t-r turnout to NMRA standards. One of the guys at the club did a clinic on making turnouts work reliably. The first point that he made, which was echoed by Joe Fugate in his clinic at the NMRA convention in Sacramento as well, is that you want the gauge at the points to be near the wide tolerance on the NMRA track gauge; but the gauge at the frog should be right on the narrow tolerance of the gauge. The Atlas and Shinohara turnouts needed the most work to get them "right on", but all the Peco needed was 1 or 2 .005" shims on the guard rails between the guard rails and the stock rail to make the guard rails fully functional.
Les, a Shinohara (Walthers) #8 is 14" long. Either they or Peco also have a #10, but I don't have one on hand to measure. I'll second Russ' comments on the respective tolerances at the frog. The two #8s which I have, and evidently some #10s yet to come, are unused cast-offs from a friend who's currently building a layout. He discovered the sloppy frogs when he ran a train through some recently completed trackwork, and discovered that the semi-scale wheels which he uses react rather poorly to the loose tolerances. He's replacing them all with Pecos (and helping to move construction of the second level of my layout a little closer).
Wayne
The other issue, naturally, is what you're capable of doing. It sounds to me as if the 6 is iffy, which says to me that the 8 will be pretty much what you need, without trying to go to places that you may not be able to work with one-handed. Naturally, people can do quite a lot with the resources they have, but it sounds to me like you want to do things as much as possible with the commercial solutions available. This is your call -- but everyone has that call to make.
I have decided that manufactured is my best bet. Although BK Enterprises is very tempting I called them and they have a very nice setup. Also I have been adding shims to switches for years but don't think that will solve this problem. I have been praising Peco for a long time as many of you know. I am still thinking and looking. As I said at the start of this it will be a while before I get to this but don't want to wait till the last minute to start thinking out loud.