I highly doubt this is the right part of the forum for this post, but the closest match for the issue is Weathering, but I was looking for an area that gets more traffic, so that way I can get more opinions.
Now, on to the matter at hand. My Father in law is an avid locomotive collector/builder. He does not want a layout, just the locomotives. He has started to hand some off to me, so that he might see them on a layout rather than a test track. He gave me an old Bowser Pacific that is lettered for a freelanced road using dry transfer lettering. I need to re-letter it. What is the best way to remove dry transfer lettering, without damaging the finish?
I will gladly post pre and post pics once a get a bug worked out with my photo viewing software.
Thanks in advance,
Matt
Do you think the lettering is sealed with dullcote or similar? If not, dry transfers can be scratched off carefully with an exacto blade or maybe a toothpick.
I've had luck with an easer if the letters haven't been sealed as previously mentioned.
You may be able to remove them with an application of masking tape, assuming they've not been clear-coated. Simply apply the tape, then peel it off.
Unsealed dry transfers respond to strong decal setting solutions such as Solvaset and I occasionally use it to settle hard-to-burnish dry transfers. It should soften unsealed ones, allowing them to be wiped off with a clean cloth or paper towel.
If they have been clear-coated, you may still be able to remove them using a #17 X-Acto chisel-type blade. Hold the blade perpendicular to the surface, and leading with the non-tapered face of the blade, gently scrape the surface in one direction only, repeating as necessary. There is a chance that you'll also scrape the paint, but you should be able to touch-up any minor blemishes.
Wayne
Thanks for all the feedback. I am going to try to use some isopropyl alcohol on a small area and see if it clouds up. That "should" tell me if it has been clear coated.
Assuming that it has been... Any thoughts?
Matt
If it has been clear coated I have had luck with (after removing the body from the mech) lightly applying some brake fluid with a Q-tip to that area and let sit for 5 minutes then gently rub under running warm water with a clean Q-tip. Before doing so I would suggest testing an area inside or on the bottom of the body shell to see if it's going to remove the paint as well.
iis612 Wrote:Thanks for all the feedback. I am going to try to use some isopropyl alcohol on a small area and see if it clouds up. That "should" tell me if it has been clear coated.
Assuming that it has been... Any thoughts?
Matt
I would be careful of using alcohol, depending on what kind of paint was used. It's OK for a solvent-based paint, but it will remove acrylic paint. Like Tyson says, test first in some inconspicuous area.
Joe's Model Trains - Paint and Decal Remover.....
I use it to remove factory lettering ( mainly for re-numbering ) without damaging the base color.
If all else fails, try it.
I ordered some paint and decal remover a while back, before the home front went to pot... Glad you mentioned it, it reminds me that it never arrived...
If at all possible, I don't want to take this model apart, as there is a quite a bit of additional detail that I don't want to risk. I should have time later to test and see if it has been clear coated. If it has been, I will go from there.
Thanks,
Matt