I started to convert Bowser GLa hoppers into QRL&PCo ones after finding great pictures from an archive funds last week. The most important difference was the number of ribs. The model has 8 panels, the prototype 10. Old ribs were removed and sanded down. New ones were made from paper strips and .5mm styrene sheet.















These cars were built in 1903 and rebuilt in 1923 by Canadian Equipment Co. They were repainted later in a simpler paint scheme which I only have partial photographic evidence. Since the oldest scheme looks better and I have all the information needed, I'll use it.

I was able to reproduce all the lettering from the excellent original picture (very high quality scan helps). Most large letters had to be redrawn by "hand" in autoCAD since no available font was close enough. I exported everything in Illustrator and printed decals in negative. I'll experiment with this old idea about printing the black background on the decal and painting the lettering zone on the model white.



I used a laser printer for this job, I'm not sure how everything with work when wet. :?

Matt

Wow! I am impressed with your ingenuity and creativity with this project! Looks like its gonna work out great!

Very cool idea.

Ralph Wrote:Wow! I am impressed with your ingenuity and creativity with this project! Looks like its gonna work out great!

Thanks,

Let's call it the poor man's white decal! Honestly, this project would have been deemed economically not viable otherwise. So far so good, but it's not a flawless method.

I started to decal one side of the hoppers this morning. Found out the laser printer kind of "bake" the decal on the backing paper. It won't let the decal slide from it. On the first car, I let the decals soaked a while longer and I started to see some decoloration. When you let them soak just a few seconds, you don't have this problem. I also used Krylon matte clear to see them. Honestly, I'm not impress by this product, it has its good sides, is not bad, but dullcote is hard to beat on this ground.

The decals are quite stiff (the sealing process I think) so you can use your finger to gently detach the film from the backing paper.

Placing the decal was my easiest experience in life. Printing decals fitting panels makes placement as easy as can be, everything align pretty well. The black ink match closely with Krylon flat black and was opaque enough to mask the white background. Lettering is very sharp. Definitively, this method as some merit on small project involving black models with white letterings.

I found out I made my original drawing file too much precise for the job on hand. I think somebody with an excellent picture could almost use it straightly without redrawing everything in vectors. Just turn everything in black & white and clean the image accordingly.

This picture shows you car 803 after receiving a coat of solvaset 15 minutes before. Car 802 wasn't covered in solvaset yet. I'm quite satisfied with the result and honestly, it's probably the first time ever a QRL&PCo freight car is modelled in a prototypical way.



Matt

Very nicely done !

You could also just print the black on white colored decal paper, which would eliminate one step. Great use of the technique!

jwb Wrote:You could also just print the black on white colored decal paper, which would eliminate one step. Great use of the technique!

I did save a step, I didn't order white decal paper! But you're right, it would save a lot of masking. Just retouching the sides of decal to blend everything together (do the white paper would shows on the completed model?).

Matt

Awesome job on the rib work. I enjoy seeing modifications like that.

The problem I've had with the white decal paper I have used in the past was it was VERY thick and didn't lay well on seams/rivets/ect. Even on a smooth surface the ridge was quite noticable. I used decal softner ect. but still wasn't happy with the results.

Along with the same problems as Tyson, I also found that the white paper shows on some of the cut edges on the decals. That can be fixed by brushing the same color on any edges where the white paper shows.

I've read other people also complaining about white decal thickness.

Anyway, the clear decal has the advantage to give you the opportunity to choose virtually any letter color you want.

To minimize seams line, I cut the decal to match exactly a pane, this way, the seams are lost along the rib.

Matt

I completed my hoppers.They need a little touch up and some weathering. BTW, how should I weather the inside? They were used for coal service only. My guess is that the paint would be blasted by the coal. I was thinking about drybrushing a dark steel color and then use poweder to add some dusting.



The prototype for comparison:




Matt

That turned out really well! NICE!

Wow... Nice! Always great to see another Canadian prototype.

Since you had to remove the ribs, would it be possible to print the whole side as one panel, and then add the ribs over the decal?


Andrew

Wow! That decal actually did okay!