When I first built my layout I was content to operate turnouts manually by simply pushing the throws by hand. Over time some of them have lost their firmness and don't stay in place while trains cross over them, causing derailaments. With scenery in place and obstacles under the layout to contend with I don't think I'll try installing electronic turnout control motors or the like. Besides, I'm on the thrifty side (cheapskate) and want to try to find an inexpensive and hopefully EASY way of creating remote turnout control.

I recall an article that was in either MR or RMC in the 70s that described a mechanical control system using weights and line to throw turnouts. I no longer have the article but my memory let me attempt an approximnation of that idea. What follows is a sort of mock up of the basic system to see if it would work at all.

Materials: Fine string, heavy metal washers, a small nail, thin coffee stir straws, and a small "window bolt". I had all of the materials on hand except the bolt which cost about $2.50.

Here's the way it works: a nail is fitted in the turnout throw rod. String is tied to it with long ends then snaking down to holes lined with the coffee stir straws. One string is weighted by heavy washers that keep the turnout in a default setting for the "main". The second string is threaded through the layout fascia and attached to the window bolt. I drilled a hole near the end of the bolt barrel to accommodate the string. When the bolt is in the top position the string has some slack which allows the weighted string to keep the turnout into the defaut position. When the barrel of the bolt is pulled down to the lower position it puts tension on the other string which pulls the turnout to the "spur" position.









I know this is crude and I can't expect that thin string to last forever. I'm pondering fishing line as a substitue. Ideally something dark colored. I'd make other refinments like clipping the nail and whatever else might be needed to make the whole assembly look more attractive.

I REALLY like the mechanical feel of operating the bolt. It's evokes (if one uses their imagination!) the physcal movement of having to throw switches either in the tower or on the ground. Makes a nice "clunking" noise as well!

I'm also thinking of painting a route map on the fascia that actually includes the bolts so it identifies which turnout is which, if I end up adding more of these controls.

I've seen other system similar to yours. I also like the mechanical feeling of throwing a switch. In the past, I once experimented with a very simple method: a piano wire connected to the throwbar that you push and pull according to the direction you want. There was a friction device made of piano wire too to make sure the position with stay firm.

Could you provide us with an under the table shot?

Matt

You are a better mechanical engineer then I am, even looking at it I can't figure it out! I had a previous layout that had one switch that was hard to reach so I used a push pull automotive choke cable and it worked great. However I use Peco switches and they lock when thrown in either direction.

You can also "interlock" 2 turnouts by mounting one door bolt below another so that you can't push both to the middle at the same time. (I used an electric version to control a double junction -- can't point both turnouts at the crossing at once.)
I didn't realize so litle movement would work.

hock: hock: Who'da t'unk it, a "window bolt", becoming a switch machine

Ingenious use of available hardware !!!!

Joe Fugate uses a similar method on his Siskiyou layout. He offers (paid) how to videos of his method on his website. Here's a link: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://model-trains-video.com/d-video-trackDCC.php">http://model-trains-video.com/d-video-trackDCC.php</a><!-- m -->

hope that's useful to some.

Koos

G'day All,
Here is a `down under' - literally - version of the Joe Fugate design. It includes a short WMV file of the system in operation.

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www2.nmit.vic.edu.au/~david/emrc2/doorl1.htm">http://www2.nmit.vic.edu.au/~david/emrc2/doorl1.htm</a><!-- m -->

Regards, Andrew G.

Wow! Great to see that so many people are using systems like this! I drew a diagram of how mine works if that helps.

The string is highlighted in yellow. Pulling the bolt in the lower position tugs on the string and lifts the weight, throwing the switch in the position for the branch line or spur. Raising the bolt upward releases the tension on the string and the weight is able to pull the points back to the default setting of "Main".

Looking at some of the other appraches above, I think mine is simpler in design but it risks wear on the string in a couple of places. Durability may be the biggest issue. I'll experiment some more.
Ralph

Ralph,
Thanks This is a great set-up. I have 4 turnouts that will have to be electronicly controlled, but this will work great for all the rest of them.
When you look at fishing line, look for the braided line, it should work great for this application. It wouldn't take much to adapt this to be completely under the table too.
Charlie

G'day All, as just a wild brainstorm, would dental floss work as a thread/string? It is slightly waxy and I assume it has to be fairly hard wearing.
Regards, Andrew G.

TTRAK_andrew Wrote:G'day All, as just a wild brainstorm, would dental floss work as a thread/string? It is slightly waxy and I assume it has to be fairly hard wearing.
Regards, Andrew G.

I think the round waxed would be the ticket unless you were doing some real long runs. You could wax the fishing line too. I never would have thought about waxing the (braided) line.

Ralph, what exactly did you use for a weight?
Charlie

Thanks for the sketch, this idea is worth a try. I like the interlocking system proposed an other one.

Matt

An update: I purchased some braided fishing line and restrung the turnout. It works GREAT! Much smoother action than the string, and of course, it should be a lot more durable. The other nice benefit is the fishline isn't so obvious. No more white string!

Charlie, I used a half dozen metal washers taped together as a weight in my mock up experiment but during my fishing line shopping trip I also bought some of these hooks for about $1.50 a piece. I like the handy ring on the top. I haven't weighed it but it must be somewhere between a half a pound to a full pound maybe. It takes that much weight to really get the points to set firmly against the rail.



I'm going to use this turnout for a few days to make sure its reliable and then plan to add several more.
Ralph

Thanks for the update. I hope you saw the suggestion about waxing the line. What strength line did you get?
If you know a fisheman that can cast some lead sinkers for you, you could use them for weight. You might try some large nuts too, you can buy them by the pound at tractor supply. I use 1/2 in nuts inside freight cars for weight if needed.
Charlie.

Hi Charlie,

I bought 8 pound test that is .30 mm in diameter. It's pretty thin stuff so that even with its "moss green" coloring its almost invisible when looking at the turnout and the window bolt. I have a 100 yards of the stuff so if it proves to be reliable I'm set for life!

I rummaged through the plumbing section of my hardware store and looked at metal couplings and stuff like that. I also considered carriage bolts. The nice ring on the hooks that aids neat tying seduced me.

I think this is going to work well but I'm going to be conservative and keep testing it before I put time into converting all of my turnouts.