My first attempt at making my own decals i've been having a problem. I picked up a pack of 2 decal sheets from a local hobby store, 1 clear sheet and 1 white sheet. When i print them out and put them in water the ink washes away, i tried again waited 30 minutes and the same thing happen. Are there better decal kits out there, what does everyone else use?

I assume you did print with an Inkjet? The ink must be fixed with ether a special fixer for that special purpose or at least some fine layers of dull coat. Fast car recommended this one to me some days ago (fixing Inkjet on plain paper to be water proof on roofs):

Yes i did use an inkjet printer. I didn't think to use any clear coat, the directions didn't even mention it, thanks.

Rscott417 Wrote:Yes i did use an inkjet printer. I didn't think to use any clear coat, the directions didn't even mention it, thanks.

If you buy the sheets from someone like Micro-Mark, it has the instructions on the envelope they come in. I've used, "Mod Podge clear acrylic sealer" that I found in the Wal-Mart craft section. It's a bit cheaper than Krylon, but either works well. I used at least two coats, let one dry before applying the other.

This are the instruction that came with my Testors decal paper (made in USA). The see topic "Bonding".

faraway Wrote:I assume you did print with an Inkjet? The ink must be fixed with ether a special fixer for that special purpose or at least some fine layers of dull coat. Fast car recommended this one to me some days ago (fixing Inkjet on plain paper to be water proof on roofs):

The Krylon Crystal Clear shown by Reinhard is what is sold by Micromark for bonding inkjet ink to their decal paper. I strongly suggest at least three if not four coats of the Krylon over the decal paper. Two coats make it resistant, however any continual movement of the decal once you have it placed where you want it will cause the ink to start to deteriorate. This can be purchased at Home Depot or Michaels Craft Stores.

Also down the road, it would consider switching to the Testors decal paper which has a thicker film than the Micromark decal paper and appears to have more adhesive on the decal itself. I haven't had good luck with Micromark paper and called and complained. They were very nice and sent me five new sheets. I have issues with severe curling of their decal paper once it is placed where I want it. The decal below was made using the Testors clear decal paper.



Fastcar

The decal paper I used for the Tour car decals was "Experts-Choice" Item number 122 INK JET, from Bare Metal Foil Company, that I purchased at my local Hobby Shop.
I used Ace Hardware, quick drying clear lacquer spray. I let the decals dry overnight before applying the spray, and had no problems with the ink running. I did experience the curling problem, and in one place had to remove and replace the decal with a new one.
With any new material/process/technique, it always pays to "learn the tricks", before actually trying to use them.

The gentleman from Micro Mark suggested using an ultrathinned white glue such as Elmers or matte medium and placing a thin coating on the area that was going to receive the decal. I did try this technique with RAIL ROAD CROSSING Crossbuck decals and worked well although I haven't used this method with large decals such as shown on the PADNOs LOGISTICS structure. Without the thinned glue, even small Micro Mark clear decals still curled and lifted.

Another observation I made was that the longer it takes the decal to lift from the backing paper, the more adhesive that appears to be on the decal. Large Micro Mark decals seemed to release after about 25 seconds while the Testor's decals nearly took a full minute.

Larry

As a long time user of Testor's decal paper I can confirm the need to put three of four coats of fixant spray on the printed decals.
Ralph

I keep it simple, use testos decal paper, then wait for the ink to dry (1/2 day), then spray two light coats of testors Decal Bonder

When using the clear coat or decal bond would it make sense to say you cut out the decal first then spray it?

Rscott417 Wrote:When using the clear coat or decal bond would it make sense to say you cut out the decal first then spray it?

No, It won't work. I tried that to keep the ink near the edges of the decals from bleeding, but as it turns out, water has to soak in through the cut edges in order for the decal to lift from the paper.

I've had positive results with Micro Mark's decals by spraying them with Dullcoat about a minute after I pulled them off of my inkjet printer or else the ink ran.

Mike Kieran Wrote:I've had positive results with Micro Mark's decals by spraying them with Dullcoat about a minute after I pulled them off of my inkjet printer or else the ink ran.

I had the opposite problem. I had to wait until the ink dried before I clear coated, otherwise the ink would run, even though I used decal paper for inkjet printers. I also used as high a resolution print cycle as I could, so there was a lot of ink on the paper. Also, one coat wasn't enough. Two or three coats at least in order to keep the ink from bleeding when submerged. I coated the paper in one direction, let it dry, then coated in the other direction just to be sure it covered good.

I had to hold the decal sheet at arms length and give it 2 lightcoats. It seems to have worked. It may also depend on the ink being used.