I just picked up a Proxxon FET micro table saw and wondered if anyone here has one or has had experience with one?;
http://www.proxxontools.com/store/pc/vie...roduct=196
http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-37070-FET-...roduct_top
The older version had a speed control that the newer model does not. According to the instructions for that model, slower speeds were better for plastics, which is what I bought this for. I didn't know this model had no control and was somewhat disappointed.
I did a little search and found one Italian model forum where one member stated that table saws should be run at full speed which surprised me. Anyone have any comment to this?
I can't comment on the saw, but I found that cutting plastic is made very easy if you put a piece of masking tape on the plastic first, and let the blade cut through it. The tape cleans the blade, and the plastic is cut, not melted. You can also see a pencil line lots better, which is how I discovered this. I cut a couple hundred feet of cuts in plexiglas using this method, and it works well on styrene too. I use a scroll saw with a guide on it to cut various small wood sizes.
Good luck with the saw. On large saws I have seen folks put the blade on backwards to cut vinyl siding. This might work with the little saw for some materials.
Charlie
I bought a optional "fine" blade that is 1/3 narrower that the other three. It does work better on ABS plastic that the carbide tip stock blade with less mess (thinner kerf).
I have a saw table attachment for my Unimat, and have used it once or twice for cutting wood.
Most plastics I score and break, and then dress the edge with a sanding block - - - it's quicker than setting up the table attachment, and a bit cleaner too.
One piece I had to cut was at a odd inner angle. I have done that before with large pieces of P{lexi, buy had mixed results. The cuts were not real critical since they were 'storm' windows for the basement,.
Hi videobruce
You have bought yourself an interesting little saw table there, that appears to be well designed and made.
I dont have a micro table saw as such and my experience with cutting plastics is limited to 3mm and 6mm perspex, some black engineering plastics and cabinetmaking laminates, but I would like to offer some of my professional experience.
I did note with interest that the maximum cut thickness for plastic was 1/2" or 12mm as opposed to 1" or 25mm for timber and this would due to the higher density of plastic which increases the load on the saw motor during cutting. It is only a small 200 watt motor so keeping up the revs is important.
Heat is your enemy when cutting plastic as it can cause waste material to become stuck to your blade and or your saw table, both of which can ruin the quality of your cuts. To prevent sticking residue I would suggest using a lubricant on the blade and table, possibly a silicone spray or even a household non-stick baking spray. It would be worthwhile checking that you are able to clean the spray from the cut plastic before gluing and painting.
To perform quality cuts you need to be aware of several factors.
1. Number of teeth on the blade; the higher the number the finer the cut and also the greater the heat build up. With such a small blade the number of teeth range will be very small, but use the finest blade with the highest teeth number.
2. Rate of feed. For any given blade the rate at which you feed the work into the blade also determines the quality of the finished edge. Listen to the sound of the motor as you feed in, if it starts to bog down then the quality of your cut is also going down as the blade is dynamically balanced for its highest rpm level.
3. Depth of cut. This factor is not really controlable with your table saw, but you should be aware that the angle of the teeth as they exit the work can also influence the quality of the bottom edge of the cut, slicing out versus square on punching out. The masking tape idea partially solves this problem.
4. Material support. The closer the material, particularly very thin material is supported at the cut point next to the blade the better the cut so you want to avoid having the material vibrate. Your table saw has been made with a clearance margin around the blade to allow for different blades and any blade wobble, but this clearance then works against you when cutting very thin materials. You can overcome this by making a cutting sled from timber sides higher than the blade cut height and a ply or mdf bottom and running this through the saw to show where the cut will occur. Place your material inside the sled and then feed it into the saw.
I hope that these tips will help you when cutting plastic.
Mark
Thanks for all the tips.
This is my 1st table saw of any kind. I have a 10" miter saw and two portable circular saws, but no bench, table or cabinet saw. Never really had the room.
It isn't as well designed or made as you may think. Sure there are cheaper ones 1/3 the price, but I wouldn't even consider those. For around $125 more I could of had the Jim Byrne saw, but I didn't want to spend $450 + shipping even though his is custom made here in the US of all metal, no plastic base. I guess the thing weighs 30 lbs.
BTW, the motor is only 100 watt according to their tech dept. Interesting about spraying a lube on the blade. I have read about using masking tape.
I did use a self cut plate for the blade opening as opposed to the stock, large gapped stock plate that allowed the blade guard to be attached.
Their older saw had a speed control that this does not. I didn't know this unfortunately. Funny, the optional blades still show the speed table on the package from the original model (still being sold for $60 less from Amazon.com).
How do you feel about the speed issue??
One of the guys I work with , on the ballpark model , bought a MicroMark mini table saw a few years back for just under $100 ...he thinks it may have been about 7 years ago . Joe likes the saw , uses it mainly for wood projects , but has cut styrene and varies the speed of the saw by hooking in a dimmer switch ....says it works very well that way so as not to melt the styrene .
Terry
videobruce Wrote:I just picked up a Proxxon FET micro table saw and wondered if anyone here has one or has had experience with one?;
http://www.proxxontools.com/store/pc/vie...roduct=196
http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-37070-FET-...roduct_top
The older version had a speed control that the newer model does not. According to the instructions for that model, slower speeds were better for plastics, which is what I bought this for. I didn't know this model had no control and was somewhat disappointed.
I did a little search and found one Italian model forum where one member stated that table saws should be run at full speed which surprised me. Anyone have any comment to this?
Depends what you're cutting. I have yet to find a good 'micro' table saw since the TPI on the blades are too big to cut smaller project plastics. In at least HO modeling a saw should be able to cut 1/16th to 1/8in and there isn't blades out there to do that.
as for the member on the other board, yeah ok
slower speeds with a saw blade type, very fast on knife blade but thats talking in the high rpms ranges here...
One thing you have to determine when cutting material is to always have a good TPI (teeth per inch) count when cutting. General rule is to have at the least three teeth cutting on the material
I should try a light dimmer, that was suggested elsewhere, but with mixed feelings.
Quote:In at least HO modeling a saw should be able to cut 1/16th to 1/8in and there isn't blades out there to do that.
You are referring to 1/16" strips of material?
The fine blade has to have at least three TPI, if not four. I have reversed the blade and it does cut somewhat better.
I mean the whole purpose of having such a big tool is for larger projects, or even longer ones. Mainly you're dealing with tiny strips, though I would not call these saws a true micro saw but compared to their big brothers they are, but not for our small scale needs
Then, what else is there?
Hands tools, model track saw or a hobby knife
To cut a long straight line/edge??
videobruce Wrote:To cut a long straight line/edge??
Use a steel yard stick to guide your cut with a hobby knife for a long straight edge.