Every now and then, I get a train of Sergent-coupler equipped cars out to do some switching on my shelf layout. Everytime, I'm fascinated with how they work.
During this past iteration of fascination, I took some video. The first is a short, very close view illustrating how the locking mechanism works - I haven't found another video showing this so closely, so I thought it worth sharing.
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The second is a nice display of the couplers in action with a medium close up and good light. This is more typical of the "demo" type videos out there, but also shows some of the challenges of working with a magnetic uncoupling device around rolling stock with steel weights.
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Lastly, a video comparing the relative slack from two identical trains; one with the Sergents, one with Kadee 58's. No tripod for this one, so it's a bit shaky, but still illustrates the point well.
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I have a couple more out there if these don't satisfy your Sergent fix! These are very cool,
As a side note, Sergent will no longer be making these in rust color - apparently the chemicals used for the process are fairly unhealthy.
Enjoy!
Thanks for posting the videos (videi?). Very informative.
Tom
Thanks for the posting. I plan to use Sergent couplers on my home switching layout. I would like to use them on the modular club set ups, but we get to many "whoop de do's" between modules. We are lucky to keep Kadees from uncoupling at various points on the layout, and end up doing a bit of layout tuning after set up to get things running reliably!
I have a couple of questions.
First, how difficult is the Sergent coupler to assemble without using the jig, or do I need to buy the jig to assemble them reliably.
The second question is since Sergent has discontinued manufacture of the "rusted" color couplers, will the available chemicals like "Rust all" work to give the couplers a rusted appearance or do I need to paint them rust color?
Matt
Having been a conductor know that slack action on the real ones can be a problem starting a train. They usually have to start real slow so they don't yank out a drawbar on one of the last cars. This shouldn't ever be a problem on MRs but wonder how many of us modelers think about this when starting our trains off.
Very cool videos. Thanks for posting.
lajry Wrote:Matt
Having been a conductor know that slack action on the real ones can be a problem starting a train. They usually have to start real slow so they don't yank out a drawbar on one of the last cars. This shouldn't ever be a problem on MRs but wonder how many of us modelers think about this when starting our trains off.
I do...I do...!! Using Kd's...you can hear the slack come out down the length of the train....
Russ Bellinis Wrote:I have a couple of questions.
First, how difficult is the Sergent coupler to assemble without using the jig, or do I need to buy the jig to assemble them reliably.
Hello Russ. Assembly isn't too bad without a jig - I've assembled eight pairs with few problems. I haven't timed it, but I'd guess it takes less than 10 minutes to assemble the coupler (not including mounting it to a car or coupler box). However, if I was planning on assembling another 10 or 20, I'd pick up the jig.
The trickiest part of assembly, for me, is one the jig won't help with - setting the damping spring in place. I think the jig
would help with the second trickiest part - putting the bottom cover on. This part forms the bottom half of the coupler shank / locking mechanism, and includes the lower pivot pin for the knuckle. I've spent 10 minutes putting one on, and I've put one on in 30 seconds. I suspect (this is speculation since I haven't used one) that the stability that the jig would add would make assembly time more consistent. A key for either approach is to use tweezers that are not magnetized so the locking ball drops into the coupler assembly with a minimum of fuss.
I have another video that shows assembly (without a jig): <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXCf0iKvgr0">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXCf0iKvgr0</a><!-- m -->
I found this one which shows assembly with a jig, for comparison: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwt057ZbC3E">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwt057ZbC3E</a><!-- m -->
Parts overview detail here: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52E4W9FGf70">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52E4W9FGf70</a><!-- m -->
Russ Bellinis Wrote:The second question is since Sergent has discontinued manufacture of the "rusted" color couplers, will the available chemicals like "Rust all" work to give the couplers a rusted appearance or do I need to paint them rust color?
I don't know the answer to the first question. Frank Sergent most likely does - shoot him an email, he's very helpful. My thought is that "rusting" the coupler at home may change the surface enough to impact performance - but this is pure speculation. If you get an answer one way or the other, let me know - I like the rust look quite a bit, and it's a shame to see it go.
Frank is recommending paint going forward (the pre-assembled ones will be painted). As a side note, there are some couplers left in rust - from an email from Sergent Engineering:
"All of the EC87 style kit couplers are now black (kind of gray actually). I still have quite a few of the narrow shank (EN87) style available in rusty brown. Those will switch to black as well as stock is depleted. The assembled couplers are still rusty brown - but its done with paint now."
Nice demonstration of the Sergents, Matt.
Wish I could afford to convert.
lajry Wrote:Matt
Having been a conductor know that slack action on the real ones can be a problem starting a train. They usually have to start real slow so they don't yank out a drawbar on one of the last cars. This shouldn't ever be a problem on MRs but wonder how many of us modelers think about this when starting our trains off.
I'm using Kadees and
do think about the slack when starting: not out of fear of pulling a drawbar, but just 'cause it's neat to watch it happen.
Slack can cause problems when running trains, too, and it was interesting to follow a long train around the layout, with different parts of the train on level track or going uphill or down at the same time. The slack, or lack of it, moves throughout the length of the train, depending on the terrain being traversed.
Something for the DCC'ers to investigate might be an independent brake for the caboose or car with the FRED, or the last car in a passenger train - this might allow stretching the slack when slowing or stopping, and then playing the throttle against it.
Wayne
Wayne brings up a neat point (as usual). DCC has given us a nice simulated loco brake effect, and a good overall train momentum effect. Both have been done in DC, too, through MRC's more advanced power packs, et al. I remember my first time operating a throttle with momentum - and it was before I had begun converting to kadee couplers - nothing but horn-hooks! Slack action could break the train at various places all at once, depending on the track conditions.
Anyway, not to take this thread too far afield, but a DCC controlled brake/drag on a caboose could really change the way we operate trains. To me it is a question of simulating operations (like momentum - our trains aren't REALLY proportionately as heavy as the prototype, even with overly weighted rolling stock) vs. actually duplicating operations in miniature. That's one thing I've always liked about the Sergent couplers - you can open the knuckle, and you may in fact need to, just like the real thing. Also you can, and may need to, kick the coupler over to one side in order to couple on the curve.
I recently purchased some of the new kadee couplers with 'whiskers', since the brass centering spring wouldn't have fit the enclosure. But it got me to thinking that maybe I don't need centering action at all. I'm not going to use the magne-matic aspects of the trip pin - for me it's just a simulation of the air hose. (I don't like replacement air hoses because they don't appear to connect when cars are coupled and that's more a glaring inconsistency than the trip pins being in the wrong spot, IMO)
So I may remove some of the centering springs for a while as a trial. Thanks for posting the great videos, Matt.
Galen
doctorwayne Wrote:Nice demonstration of the Sergents, Matt. Wish I could afford to convert.
I'm not sure I'm going to convert - the price differential is not crazy (and I have less than 50 cars I need to convert), that wouldn't be the hold up. The decision will revolve around two things:
- Whether (or not) they are easier to operate after I get over the "cool" factor (though it's been two years now, and I'm still fascinated)
- How involved I get in my local MRR community. I joined the NMRA 1.5 years ago and have recently become active in it and I joined a local model railroad club a couple weeks ago, so I'm meeting more hobbyists now. That means I'm more likely to run on someone else's layout, which is likely Kadee-based. I like the brand, and the #58 profile is an excellent compromise.
doctorwayne Wrote:I'm using Kadees and do think about the slack when starting: not out of fear of pulling a drawbar, but just 'cause it's neat to watch it happen.
Wayne
This comment got me thinking about one of the small things I like about the Sergents - watching the knuckles slide up an down relative to one another as cars traverse vertical curves. I'm not sure why, but it's much more apparent than on Kadee's over the same trackwork - probably because the same vertical movement is a greater percentage of the height of the Sergents. And maybe the color just shows it better.
Wow! thanks for those videos. Very cool, and very informative.