Hi,

I'm actually trying to remove factory lettering from a Walthers Platinum HO Caboose.

Using Solvaset and pen eraser didn't work. Wet sanding can work to a certain extent but isn't suited for a wood-sided caboose.

Any idea or trick?

Thank you

Matt

Joe's Model Trains - Paint and decal remover.
It's not instantaneous, but I've been using it for several years now, and it's the best thing I've tried so far. A quarter inch wide flat brush, with the bristles cut about half their original length, makes a handy scrub brush that works well with the "Joe's". It cleans up with water.
You might have to repeat the process to get all the lettering off, if done carefully, it doesn't harm the paint.

Then, of course, there is the ultimate lettering remover - - - - strip all the paint, re-paint, and re-letter.

well, it looks like you tried my idea already. I used a "Hi-polymer" eraser though. I've found that most other erasers don't always do the job, and a pen eraser might not be the right consistency to remove lettering.

I have never tried it, but several folks have suggested Easy Lift Off or ELO. Micro-Mark and a few other mail order places sell it. I have also seen it in some of the better stocked LHS. Let us know how it works out. I, too, need to re-letter several pieces of rolling stock.

Matt

Thanks guys!

I think that getting a better product will be a good buy in the near future. I was impatient (as always) and finally, I decided to continue with the Solvaset trick. Instead, I used a 600 grit wet sand paper and 2 hours and half later, the model was clean as a freshly painted car would be. However, the plastic was orange and the paint too. So it's hard to tell if any paint damages occured. Anyway, not the most time efficient method out there!!! ;-) What worked the best was to apply Solvaset, lightly wet sand the lettering, then reapplying solvaset. After 30 seconds, it was easily removed with a wet sandpaper. Cleaning the groove was much more time consuming. Using a hobby knife and a metal point brought the best results.

So my unprototypical CNR caboose is now ready to become a prototypically "correct" GTW caboose.



With new decals (Microscale). I decided to go with the black lettering scheme that was specific to GTW. It was probably not the best color back then!!!! The guy who thought about this wasn't thinking about lisibility at all!!! Anyway, every cabooses on the layout will be easy to identify (CNR White Maple, CNR Green Maple & GTW Black Lettering).



Walthers model lacked truss rods. I used MDC queen posts and Tichy turnbuckles. Not perfect, but gives more charm to the model. Beams are too far spaced according to prototype, but in general, Walthers did a relatively correct model.

Before the second coat of Solvaset:



Steps will have to be partially painted orange.

BTW, Walthers did a great job with the part breakdown. I love when a detailled model can be so easily dismantled without damaging anything. Thumbs up! I guess it's the same with other Platinum cabooses.

Matt

Nice job.
I keep looking at your model, thinking that I have seen it before.
Then it hit me......
[attachment=11859]
Taken in June when "Hank the Tank" came to town.

The time and effort paid off !!!
Nicely done

I preferred a small kitchen type wooden skewer to gently remove the lettering with solvaset rather than a hobby knife or sand paper.

Empirebuilder Wrote:I preferred a small kitchen type wooden skewer to gently remove the lettering with solvaset rather than a hobby knife or sand paper.

Nice idea. The skewed is softer on the model and shaped itself in the groove. I'll try it next time I must remove lettering! I also thought the hobby knife was a little bit destructive.

Matt

Finished product. Only need to rust a little bit those couplers and it will hit the rail again.





Matt

Good-looking caboose, Matt. That isn't the Walthers caboose which has the limited-swivel trucks, is it?

Wayne

doctorwayne Wrote:Good-looking caboose, Matt. That isn't the Walthers caboose which has the limited-swivel trucks, is it?

Wayne

Oh yes it is!!! So far, we didn't had trouble with it on the layout. Hopes it will stay that way! ;-)

Matt

Actually, it's quite easy to correct. Simply remove the trucks, then cut through the longitudinal member of the frame immediately inboard of the coupler pocket. Make a second cut in the frame on the opposite side of the bolster (towards the centre of the car) - I don't recall the exact length, but it should be farther away from the bolster than the initial cut was by the distance you wish to move it away from the steps. Simply turn the cut-out frame/bolster assembly 180° and cement it back in place, then re-attach the trucks.

Wayne

doctorwayne Wrote:Actually, it's quite easy to correct. Simply remove the trucks, then cut through the longitudinal member of the frame immediately inboard of the coupler pocket. Make a second cut in the frame on the opposite side of the bolster (towards the centre of the car) - I don't recall the exact length, but it should be farther away from the bolster than the initial cut was by the distance you wish to move it away from the steps. Simply turn the cut-out frame/bolster assembly 180° and cement it back in place, then re-attach the trucks.

Wayne

Thanks Wayne,

I'll give it a try before returning it to the club layout. Sometimes, I really wonder what are thinking people designing such products. There's a feeling of utter pathetism when you fail the basics while succeeding in the details!

Matt