Has anyone had any success with casting small detail parts in resin? To give an example of how small, think of sander valves, or marker lights. I would like to give injectors a try, but they look like they are going to be a challenge, especially with the tubing. The rubber mold I have made for the smaller parts leaves out some details. I am assuming it's from air being trapped in the mold. I would really like to learn how to do this because these detail pieces are getting more scarce buy the day. Just want see what other modelers have come up with.

Mark

twilight Wrote:The rubber mold I have made for the smaller parts leaves out some details. I am assuming it's from air being trapped in the mold. I would really like to learn how to do this because these detail pieces are getting more scarce buy the day. Just want see what other modelers have come up with. Mark

If the detail was captured by the mold, and is not coming out in the cast pieces, you may need to "work" the casting material into the tiny cavities in the mold, before or as you fill it. Be careful not to introduce air bubbles as you do that.

I have done some train car bodies but not small detail parts, there are some some resins specificlay for small parts because normaly you have to mix at least a minimum amout for the resin to kick and set properly. I have used Micro mark, EZ-cast and smooth on resins with success. A good way to learn casting and molding is a DVD that micro mark sells by Dave Furay and Hal Renyolds. Hope this helps.

Reading this thread.....raises the thought - - - I have some two-part epoxy putty, that mixes up to a consistency of clay. I will have to try using that in an open mold, for surface parts ( that have a flat back, where they attach ).
Maybe a two part mold could be used to make the two halves which can then be glued together.

"Parts", for a Starfleet, Dakota Class, Heavy Shuttle Carrier !!!!!

I've done detail casting in resin:





You need to use a low viscosity resin. Smooth-On's Smoothcast 300 is quite popular. I've seen it online and in art stores. The Alumlite stuff in hobbyshops is nearly worthless for detail parts...unless you like rejects.

I use a sewing needle in a pin vise to work the air bubbles out of the mold after pouring the resin in. talc (baby powder) in the mold is also helpful.

3D printing might be an easier path...

Casting parts has always appealed to me but I've never gotten around to trying it . Maybe this thread will get me going .

T

Tee Jay,


Casting and molding is a hobby in its self, the one major rule of thumb is if you need just a few parts it may not be economical to go that route but if you want to make a lot of something or are just technologicaly curious then it may be worth the cost of materials.

I have used the alumilite and it set up as I was pouring the resin in to the mold, micro mark has a starter kit that is good for starting out. Also look at art stores like AB-Blick art supplies they carry Smooth on and a few other brands of resin and silicon RTV mold supplies, I highly recomend a DVD sold by micro mark on how to cast stuff the title exscapes my memory but it had Hal Reynolds and Dave Furay may have miss-spelled the names.

As for 3D printing goes makerbot has a new printer called replicator 2 comes built and tested ready to print with a bigger build platform and uses PLA plastic not the styrene used by the other printers they made in the past. At $2199.00 for one of these it is a bit steep but it is a hobbyists version of a rapid prorotyper which are astronomicaly more expensive.

Thanks , maybe I'll wander over to the local Michael's to see what they have although the Canadian affiliate doesn't seem to carry anywhere near the one cross the border . As for the 3-D printer , I'll wait until my lottery ticket wins

T

Tee Jay,


I am hoping that with in 2 years I might save up enough change to think about the replicator 2. Been studying about 3D printing for the last couple years and also vacuum forming and CNC machines from both an artists perspective as well as a technological curiosity. Some siliccone rubber RTV materials can be used to cast low temp melt metals and they also have some lead free alloys just for casting chess sets and toy soldiers.


NKP_174,

Great castings.

Still working on my 2 part mold making skills.

Practice is key for resin casting. Currently, I'm working on building a pressure casting setup. Unfortunately, it will force me to create all new molds (molds are the most expensive part of resin casting).

I'm planning to have my parts printed by commercial shops (e.g. shapeways) as I feel that they tend to give you a higher quality product than most of the home printers....and without the capital outlays...