GP40M??? GP40-2M???

Anyway, this will take you through my Athearn GP40-2, that is getting some superdetailing(in some of the most unorthodox ways you've ever seen)!!
She'll also be getting extensive mechanical and electrical mods as well...

Then, she'll get a coat of the Pacific Belt's newest scheme!!

Here's what I'm starting with.....
:hey:

STEP ONE:
Something no DCC/Sound equipped Athearn should be without!!

Lower amp draw, MUCH quieter (yes! The driveline and trucks will be addressed too!) :p

Got it on EvilBay for $21.00!!!!

THE UNORTHODOX BITS BEGIN!!

I had to do a "make it fit"......
Some of you already know, that Athearn GP38/40/50/60's take a different, shorter, squatter motor. WHY?? Only so it can clear the inside posts for those dumb body clips!!!
SO.... I ground them off with my Dremel, and coarse sanding drum.
BE CAREFUL grinding - you could easily blow a hole in the body (DON'T ask me how I know!!)

Fits Perfectly now!!!

THE UNORTHODOX BITS BEGIN 2!!
I also had to do EXTENSIVE grinding to the frame! Did it for fit, and also to lower the motor, for room for DCC and sound components!!

Now that ALL the grinding is done, after 5 test fits, and more grinding.....
I got to nestle the motor in - now a bit lower!
The driveline is more level too!!

I set the Mashima motor in a gooey bed of Ultra Black RTV automotive silicone.....
Oh, the thick paper was my method of flywheel clearance!!!

Now - its just got to sit around, until the silicone sets - about 24 hours.
(REGARDLESS of what the directions say!!! You will be applying the RTV much thicker than any typical automotive use!!)

Side note - those silly body clips are gonna be GONE!
I'm planning on using the coupler pockets, to mount the frame with the body!

Can't squeeze the body with a speaker, decoder, and Keep-Alive stuffed in the body! :p

Motor clearance was so tight, I even had to superglue the negative wire to the front of the motor...
(Well, it does help keep the wire away from the flywheel!)

The Best way I was shown, to wire a Blue Box loco!!!
Direct and secure power to the decoder!

I love these mechanical how-to posts as I always learn something new.

Carmine, thanks for taking the time to photograph, document and post your progress.

I'm eagerly awaiting more.

Mark

Thanks for the kind words, Mark!!!
You're welcome. THAT'S why I do it!!

pacbelt Wrote:Oh, the thick paper was my method of flywheel clearance!!!

That should do the trick !

Looks like you are off to a really good start on this project!
Another great "learning Curve"

I'm going to enjoy following this thread.

That is a very nice step by step report. Thanks for posting.
How did you glue the flywheels on the axis? I had problems because the result was in my case a not balanced motor-flywheel assembly.

ps. The Athearn RTR GP38 - GP60(M) shells fit with some easy milling on the Atlas Trainman GP38 drives.

faraway Wrote:That is a very nice step by step report. Thanks for posting.
How did you glue the flywheels on the axis? I had problems because the result was in my case a not balanced motor-flywheel assembly.

ps. The Athearn RTR GP38 - GP60(M) shells fit with some easy milling on the Atlas Trainman GP38 drives.

I APPRECIATE the Comments, Gentlemen!!
I will be proud to continue this project - HERE!!

Faraway, I used medium thick, slow cure CA. It's much better at filling gaps, so the flywheels center better!
I then put the motor Assembly in a soft vise, ran it at 13 volts, and held a file lightly against the flywheels while spinning.
Its a poor man's method of truing! :p

Brings me to the last point....
Yes, I could easily put an Atlas frame under it. Unfortunately, life events have left me quite poor.
I have a few Blue Boxes laying around from many years. My object: to turn these into highly detailed models, with DCC and Sound, for less than $100 each!!

Here's some of the "Toys" I had/picked up for this:

This will be FUN!!!!

ON TO THE BODYWORK!!!

My "low tech" method of aligning the fan grab iron!! :p