The pilot trucks on my Bowser L-1 Mikado is hitting the Kadee draft gear box. I'm looking for suggestions on alternate installations of the front coupler. I am using a Kadee #5 coupler. Also, the coupler must be installed to operate.
Thanks,
Mark
You can check on
page 2 of my thread on how I built one of those. It shows my solution to the same problem.
Do you recall what size screw you used to mount the coupler? Was it a 00-90? There's not much meat on the coupler shank for a hole to be drilled out.
Mark
Also, have you had experience with your L-1 consisted with other locos, how did the coupler hold up?
Mark
Sorry but I don't remember the screw size. It was a small self tapper that was in with all my 2-56 and smaller screws. I normally run the L-1 on it's own, I don't think I have ever double headed it. I have used the pilot coupler to push/pull a few cars around here and there, and it has never given me any trouble.
See if you can find one of the original Kadee MK or MKD 6,7 or 8 couplers. The original version had a very small mount that just wrapped around the hole in the coupling. (in the 60s, possibly 70s, before they got the 3 layer boxes.)
Kadees #5's have a sizable mounting opening. I believe I used a 4-40 screw with an R/C fuel line over it for a nice snug fit and no metal to metal contact with the screw. Works like a charm....
I recently replaced the pilot trucks on my Athearn Mikados with those from the Bachmann 2-8-4. I had to lengthen the tang for the mounting screw in order for the outside bearings to miss the cylinders, and this caused the front of the truck to rub against the draught gear box of the Kadee #5 coupler used on the pilot.
Kadee offers the #153 coupler, their shortest shank whisker-style coupler, but it comes with the #242 draught gear box, which is as long as the #5, but even thicker. However, the #153 coupler will fit into the #5 box, and almost all of the material behind the pivot post can be removed. If you need a longer coupler in order to clear the pilot, I'm sure that other versions of the whisker coupler will work equally well in the #5 box.
To mount the coupler box securely, either drill and tap the pilot beam or deck to accept a 2-56 screw, or, if a smaller screw is needed, plug the mounting hole in the Kadee box with Evergreen .080" styrene rod, and once the cement has cured, drill it out with a clearance hole for the size of screw being used, then drill and tap the pilot for the screw. This will give you a fully insulated front coupler with self-centering.
Wayne